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Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

Car looks phenomenal!!

Thank you

Nice pics... word of warning. Single muffler systems on our engines will raspy and sound like a fat can. How do I know? My 144 came with a 4into1 header and a single muffler. My new exhaust has a small resonator and i sounds so nice now.

FYI I heard you say header but I dunno if you mean manifold.

I would advice against a header with a weber setup. They work against each other

I think you are probably right about the single muffler since it would have to be pretty small to tuck up under that part of the car. With the stock front muffler blowing the exhaust right into the underside of the rear seat I still think it sounded pretty good.

What do you mean about the header and weber being at odds?


You'd be wrong, decent 140 front clips are few and far between nowadays.

You've convinced me Ken, the bumper will stay on!
 
When I got the wheels, two would only hold air for about 4 hours at a time. Since I wanted to get the car together in time for my dad's visit I prioritized getting them resealed first. Thanks to Greg and everyone else who helped me through that.

Now that the time crunch is over I will be resealing the final 2 wheels. It's not as much of a rush so I will try to take some photos this time around:



Mystery solved regarding where these wheels originally rolled:

 
I'm not really sure how the car ran as well as it did. When I did the initial tune up months ago when I bought my car, it was my first time working with points. I read the Hayne's manual and a few tutorials online and evidently completely misunderstood everything I read.

In order to set the points, I set the gap between the rubbing block and the distributor cam instead of between the contact points. Somehow the car has run and run pretty well for the last few months.

This weekend I was thinking about the ignition and starting looking back into the points. I saw this great video on youtube and regapped the points correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoQbmuMploc

Nora and I took the car out for some fun on some backroads this afternoon and man does it run better now! I should probably be embarrassed about this whole thing but I figured I would share it just in case anyone else is working on their first vintage Volvo.
 
No, but now I will! Thanks Ken

A matchbook cover was the old school side of the road 'feeler' gauge, that's if you can find book matches anymore...

There should be a little barrel at the bottom of the dizzy, turn that till the hole in it points up and drizzle some oil in there to lubricate the bushing at the bottom of the shaft.
 
You should also put a drop or two of oil on the felt wick under the rotor to lubricate the advance mechanism.
 
With the 5x8 rear springs the Kaplhenke perches were as set as low as possible. It looked great, but wasn't that practical since I could only lower the car further since the perches were screwed all the way down. With the 16x8 rear wheels even with the fenders rolled the car rubbed over uneven roads. The 5x11 springs I just ordered are a much better fit for the car. One side showed up today and I put it on to test the height. I can lower the perches all the way down so the body rests on the wheel (which I don't want) and raise them up so there is a few inches of fender gap. Much better!

 
sooo much gap .... just kidding - looking good Colin! nice to hear you got the ignition dialed in.
 
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Okay I'll preface this with I know a few people on here told me to avoid the IPD header with their Weber setup. The other day I was looking at the crack in my exhaust manifold and noticed it had grown a lot. The previous owner tried to weld the crack which obviously doesn't work well.



I went ahead and ordered the IPD header and started fitting it last night. Initially I bolted it in place and then tried to fit the intake manifold. It wouldn't go on no matter what I did so I tried putting the intake on first. That didn't work either so I took a step back to see what was going on.

After a little searching and feeling, I saw that the intake was running into the exhaust manifold flange on the underside of the head.



Today I ground a small amount of material off the intake and they slipped together easily. I've emailed IPD to see if this has happened to others and we will see what they say.

With that behind me I can't wait to take it out and see how it sounds. Also looking forward to driving without worrying about that massive crack lol.
 
I told you I had a manifold :oogle:

But now that you have a 4into1 header it will sound great. The engine will want to rev a little quicker and your power range will be in higher RPMs

If you dont have a overdrive it's actually a good setup. The header is designed for more top end performance. I got 23mpg driving 65-75 to portland with another 250lbs guy using the same setup. I recommend 2 inch piping for usable power. Your stock engine doesn't need 2.250 or 2.5 with a single weber

When you want more power just upgrade to a weber 38dges it's like the progressive but both barrels are matched in size and fueling (both barrels open in sync)



Okay I'll preface this with I know a few people on here told me to avoid the IPD header with their Weber setup. The other day I was looking at the crack in my exhaust manifold and noticed it had grown a lot. The previous owner tried to weld the crack which obviously doesn't work well.
 
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I told you I had a manifold :oogle:

But now that you have a 4into1 header it will sound great. The engine will want to rev a little quicker and your power range will be in higher RPMs

If you dont have a overdrive it's actually a good setup. The header is designed for more top end performance. I got 23mpg driving 65-75 to portland with another 250lbs guy using the same setup. I recommend 2 inch piping for usable power. Your stock engine doesn't need 2.250 or 2.5 with a single weber

When you want more power just upgrade to a weber 38dges it's like the progressive but both barrels are matched in size and fueling (both barrels open in sync)

Damn, yes you did! I completely forgot that. I still have that rear sway bar if you're interested.

The car doesn't have overdrive.

I was able to easily connect it to the stock exhaust where the cat should be. I think this should keep me satisfied for a while but I'll keep that 38dges recommendation for when I decided I need to get more power.

I fired it up in the garage and it sounds about the same as it did at idle. Since it was like 8:30 I figured I'd keep the revving to a minimum so I didn't upset the neighbors.

Can't wait to get it out this weekend so I can see how it drives with the taller springs and I can hear the new header! I'm going to install a tach so I can have a better idea of what the engine is doing. (if I install the tach I'll be a lot less likely to buy that gorgeous 140GT cluster that hiperfauto is selling)
 
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