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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

there are these gaskets
s-l225.jpg


also you can suspend engine and drop the sub frame
 
I'm probably going to do just that. I've accepted my fate. I'm going to pick up one of those engine support bars this week and try to tackle the job on the weekend. I'm putting money on the possibility that the flange isn't straight, even though I thought it was.
 
So, I was right. It wasn't quite flat where I welded in the oil return. The outer lip was fine, but the inner was low, so no amount of gasket would seal it up. I dumped it right into the trash and went with a tried-and-true method that a lot of manus use now...RTV. 24 hours later, and the joint between pan and block is bone dry. I ended up dropping the entire subframe, since going with the RTV method requires a straight-shot to the sealing surface, more or less. It wasn't any more difficult than lowering it slightly, and it's a good excuse to clean it before I put it back in.
 
After all the threads I've read here about doing the oil pan gasket, I could not believe how easy it was to drop the subframe in it's entirety to make the job even easier. I highly recommend that method, even though I know I'll be criticized for suggesting it, haha.

I undid the front and rear control arm bolts, steering shaft, tie rod ends, steering rack lines, all the wee brake line bolts, and the subframe bolts themselves. It dropped right out, no fuss, no muss. Then I could clean the mating surfaces perfectly, apply the RTV, and slap it all back together. The leak issues have been solved (never using a separate gasket again, on anything), the front end has been re-assembled, and now I'm working on the downpipe.
 
Yessir! The front end is back together, the exhaust is done, and all it needs now is a bit of coolant and the e-fan wires connected to the megasquirt. By sunday, I hope to drive it around the block :).
 
It fits amazingly well, and that's a good thing...because the OG vent is now a puzzle of busted plastic :(. The gauge is just a test fit, I will have a 52mm GPS speedometer in there eventually.

BsyDPlTZ.jpg
 
There are no Saab 900s up here anymore, thanks to emissions testing (crushing) and rust/salt, so I made my own coolant T for a BMW fan switch. A piece of 1.5" pipe, a 14mm x 1.5 nut, a crush washer, a welder, and a can of paint = two speed fan control.

Of course, the switch I grabbed yesterday is 80*c/88*c...so I am now waiting for Amazon to deliver a 91/99 to me. I had hoped to drive it this weekend, but I guess I have to wait.

OlbRTlP2.jpg
 
Chad!
Small word...you may remember me from the likes of "Eviltwin" from OVD circa 2003ish.
Just went over your built and I gotta say I'm happy to see a local of your talent and commitment tacking a dreaded b21a carb conversion.

I just picked up the 83 245 DL that sat on Kijiji for some time. Plans are stage 0 for this summer while I amass an LS conversion for next year.

I'll likely bump into you @ one of the junkyards, and don't be a stranger if you're looking for a hand to wrench on the brick!
 
Hey man, how's it going! I thought that might be the same screen name, good to see ya.
I was so tempted by that wagon, but I didn't need another carbed car, haha. I completely missed your post, sorry about that. I've got carb spares if you need anything, and a spare BW55 three-speed that will probably get tossed...so if you want one...lol.

Project updates:
Well, it made it outside:

o4EAJFJm.jpg


It is running on MS1, and the fans are now on a BMW two-speed switch. Everything works great...except it's barely driveable :(. It will fire up and idle great, but it refuses to rev cleanly, and if you try to hold a steady throttle, it will do so for a few seconds...then die. While dying, it goes dead lean, so I am at a loss. It seems like it's not getting fuel properly, but it WILL idle fine. If I crank the accel enrichment up to crazy heights, I can rev it, but the minute my foot stabilizes at a steady state...lean and die. I'm frustrated, and it's probably something simple. BAH.
 
The verdict is...dead fuel pump. With a mechanical fuel pressure gauge installed, I'm only seeing 15psi fuel pressure. Pinching the return didn't raise the pressure, so I removed the line and turned on the pump. No fuel came out of the FPR. Then I replaced that with a spare one I had...same result. I removed it again and turned on the pump, fuel came out of the rail. Ok, that means the NICE NEW AIRTEX PUMP I JUST PUT IN IS DEAD. MUTHERF**KING HELL.

I'm going AEM this time, screw the OEM-style stuff.
 
HALLELUJAH! Pulled the pump, and the OEM volvo hose I re-used to go from the Airtex pump to the sending unit had a tear in it. Replaced it, and now everything is right again. I even drove it 5km, up and down the road I live on.

7psi...2" exhaust...no tune...it was slow but I don't care :).
 
I'm very happy about that part :).
Now I just have to button up all the little stuff (put the headlights back in, reassemble the under-dash, tune, etc) and it'll be ready for driving.

...I'm also going to double the boost. 7psi is just not going to cut it ;).
 
Last night I adjusted the throttle spool/kickdown cable throw, and set my throttle opening properly. I've been having an issue with extremely low idle vac (61kpa/10 InHg), which bothers me. I did the last round of testing with all the intake piping off, and my boost leak checker...which I realised was useless after I heard air escaping through the open valves.

The kickdown cable was too tight, so it was keeping me from getting 100% throttle. I was only getting 75% total, so I'm hoping that the too-tight kickdown cable (actually a throttle valve cable) was creating false load at idle/overall. I'll find out tonight when I fire it up.

If it doesn't help, then I'm going to do a leakdown test, and a compression test.
 
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