Svea - 1968 220 -

What kind of paint did you use your head? I've never seen engine paint in that color.

GoldieBrick said:

What kind of paint did you use your head? I've never seen engine paint in that color.

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its this:
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/enginemetallic/
I was going to try to match the color of the car... I think it needs to be darker. The next one (my b20 turbo that is under the workbench) will get this same stuff mixed with a little black clear and brown to match the car better.

So I got some new goodies that may be of interest to this build...





New -6 rail by nathaninwa... Its perfect! Then a little birdie brought me this


It's a Garrett GT2052 with a .60 AR hotside, and .51 coldside... needs a rebuild and an adapter tur run off my t3 mani, but I might just give it a try.

Well, I sold that Garrett... and blew a fuel pump, note to self and others, Walbro pumps DO NOT LIKE LOW VOLTAGE... so got a new pump and regulator, just need to whip up some AN lines and install the regulator.

So here is the pump I got:


and the regulator:

Well, it's been a while since the last update.

New pump is working great, loud, but works well. FPR is working out well after some creative mounting. I installed some new green top injectors and my nathaninwa -6 fuel rail, that was a nice little piece to add to the engine bay. The car has been running great after some work and daily jam sessions to work. Overall I'm very pleased and surprised at how easy the MS install went.

I just received a new Wilwood clutch master and a new slave. And I picked up a new braided soft line and will be grabbing a piece of hardline tonight. So new clutch hydro will be in place hopefully after this weekend.

Next up on the list is to finish picking up the parts for the Wilwood disc swap on the front. That will include a new master, hardlines, and I might see about moving my stock front calipers and rotors to the rear.... but that will be later in the spring.

I'll post up pics this afternoon

So here are some pictars of the new rail and fpr. I think it turned out well, but looking at the pics, I need to wash my engine bay!




And now I can see my fuel pressure with the hood open from the driver seat!

And it looks like I might be able to swap to a D-Jet intake manifold this weekend, and I will probably be selling off the HIF6 carbs and manifold once the new mani is tested and found to be in good order.

I was about to say, carbs AND MS? How Dafuq?

amerbritcan said:

I was about to say, carbs AND MS? How Dafuq?

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well in msns mode I did run them for about 4-6 weeks under a spark only situation. Ran way better than the dizzy when I got the timing map worked out.

But now, they're gutted, so its kinda like dual throttle bodies...

Well, I swapped out the lucas clutch master cylinder for a Wilwood unit, it bolted right in, but my clutch pedal is about 1.5" higher off the floor... I thought about shortening the pushrod, but I figure I'll try it like this and see... and I went ahead and replaced the hard line, and softline (got a nice braided line from Eric at HiPerf)


The engine bay got kinda uglied up around the clutch master cylinder from a leaky master so when I make the leap to a wilwood brake master and swap to the wilwood front brakes I'll pull the wiring and clean/respray that area.

This weekend I'll be installing *hopefully* the d-jet manifold... We'll see if there are any improvements over this and see how my little manifold bolt spacer/adapter things go over...

Well, I got that D-jet intake installed. Need to clean up some more under hood wiring. For now its kinda being sideburnered until next month when I get my wilwood calipers for the front. I've decided to sell my house and find one with a garage so I've gotta finish up some house projects.

cwdodson88 said:

Oh, and I forgot to post up a pic of the surge tank install, so

So now I just need to run a high pressure feed line, return to the surge, and return to the tank! Should all go together by the end of next week! And by then I might just be ready to switch to wasted spark!

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Nice progress, you are doing a lot of what I plan. How did you handle the return to the main tank?

carbonmike said:

Nice progress, you are doing a lot of what I plan. How did you handle the return to the main tank?

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I drilled a hole in the sender for a 1/4" npt 3/8 hose barb (there is just barely enough room)... then I opened up the 3/8 hose barb fitting. Tapped the hole for 1/4npt then on the underside used a female 1/4 npt fitting with a piece of submersible hose. Its not ideal, but it works for now. I think that in the near future I will need to rework the filler neck with a vent and a return fitting (it burps when filling) and then run a line from the surge tank to the filler neck.

That little red dot on the sender is where I placed the hole.

I am curious what turbo you are planning on using?

carbonmike said:

I am curious what turbo you are planning on using?

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At the moment that's in the air. My exhaust manifold is flanged for a t3 frame. I was thinking that I would run a GT2871rs ball bearing for that quick spool up. But after doing some more research on the Mitsu's I found that you can machine the TD04-13c compressor housing to fit a 16t compressor wheel, and it only takes a few minutes to flatten the turbine inlet flange to fit a t3 flange. Cost wise, finding a Volvo 90+ 13c is a huge win, and then another 250.00 for rebuild kit and 16t swap, plus a 6pack at the local machine shop to have it punched out to accept the 16t compressor and it still comes in at about 1/3-1/2 the cost of the GT28 and a t3 exhaust housing... So I'll be pondering that for a while and see what I can get my hands on.

I just got my Wilwood front brakes ordered, they will be here this weekend.... Safety first I guess... Gotta be able to stop this thing before I can make it go fast

cwdodson88 said:

At the moment that's in the air. My exhaust manifold is flanged for a t3 frame. I was thinking that I would run a GT2871rs ball bearing for that quick spool up. But after doing some more research on the Mitsu's I found that you can machine the TD04-13c compressor housing to fit a 16t compressor wheel, and it only takes a few minutes to flatten the turbine inlet flange to fit a t3 flange. Cost wise, finding a Volvo 90+ 13c is a huge win, and then another 250.00 for rebuild kit and 16t swap, plus a 6pack at the local machine shop to have it punched out to accept the 16t compressor and it still comes in at about 1/3-1/2 the cost of the GT28 and a t3 exhaust housing... So I'll be pondering that for a while and see what I can get my hands on.

I just got my Wilwood front brakes ordered, they will be here this weekend.... Safety first I guess... Gotta be able to stop this thing before I can make it go fast

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My supercharger plan has been put on the backburner after the unit I found got damaged during shipping. Looking at turbo options while I shop around for another deal. I was thinking more along the lines of a GT2554R, not looking for huge numbers but a quick response.

carbonmike said:

My supercharger plan has been put on the backburner after the unit I found got damaged during shipping. Looking at turbo options while I shop around for another deal. I was thinking more along the lines of a GT2554R, not looking for huge numbers but a quick response.

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right, that would do it, but costwise the TDO4-hl mitsu's are a pretty quick spool for the money. And they show up on here like ants, one pops up and a couple days later FS is crawling with them

so after mocking up on my spare engine. It looks like surgery is next up on the list. Either the manifold needs to be tweaked closer to the block by about 2.5" or the inner fender, radiator support, and just behind and left of the grille will need to be hacked up

So the Savar J pipe I got from Dan, off the holset,MS'd 142, was definetely not meant for the 122 engine bay. It was about 2" too far forward and hung the turbo so far away from the block that I would have almost had to have the turbo in the fender at about 4o'clock behind the headlight. So I decided that instead of hacking the engine bat to make it fit, I'd just rearrange the j-pipe...




thats better! Based on my measuring, it will now sit about centered under the inlet of the intake and shouldn't be too far forward. The filter and the wastegate actuator will most likely poke through the radiator support and I may need to make a 3"x1.5" deep pocket in the inside of the fender for the hotside, but theres nothing behind there and the tire is far enough back that it wont hit anything.

Now I just need to fix the wastegate hole crack fixed, mill the turbine inlet flat, and reclock it back to FWD since My IC will have same side inlet and outlet, I'll run from the compressor down then forward, then 90* into the intercooler, and back out and straight into the intake.

Anyone reclock a Mitsu 15g? I need to rotate the CHRA 180*... It looks like its just a giant C Clip... Any tips would be helpful.