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Cosbysweater's Lifted Om606 Wagon Build

Ended up getting some unexpected time off due to contracting the Rona. So I tackled the delivery valves today. Got all the seals and crash washers done. Found 2 bores completely drained of fuel so that's actually nice to see. I installed the om603 fuel pump and filter housing and pre filter as well. Just waiting on my fuel line to show up from McMaster Carr later today.

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Got the om603 lift pump, filter housing and pre filter installed took about 2 minutes of cranking to bleed the pump and the fuel system. Used tygon semi clear diesel hose for everything and copper washers so I deleted all of the o rings that are prone to leak under vibration and age. Turned the idle down to 600rpm with the ac engaged and it smoothed out quiet a bit the rack position also helped fuel milage a little bit it seems.
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Tygon is the best hose. I used it on the om617, it was nice to watch the air bubbles dance around.
 
Final piece of the puzzle for the engine. Got the turbo engine cover. Looks alot better and was super hard to find.

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New
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Also bought a w124 off face book market place that ran amazingly well. Just grabbed it for a spare engine. It's amazing how much better a 300k Mercedes drives then a 100k Volvo :lol:

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Cleaned up this thing a bit today. Mulling over what to do with it
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https://youtu.be/0e6yiqFQgNU

Got the engine running on the stand. Runs great. Steam cleaned it so I wanted to make sure I blew all the crap that may have gotten into the intake out. Waiting on a turbo manifold to show up and going to start stripping the motor down for a reseal. It has the old school head gasket that's leaking a bit. Want to delete the oil heater and make a drain. Funny enough these early n/a engines have no provisions for the turbo feed and drain so I'm going to need to tap into it at a different point
 
That has a really nice sound.

Thanks! Yea it ran extremely well. I'm excited to crack it open. I'm half tempted to send this pump out for modding. It has a rs203 mech pump on it, only year the 606 had a mechanical pump stock. Word has it the cam profile of the pump is the best one for the 606. Luckily they can mod it for turbo use with a external alda system. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it, I'm looking at a few w124s and it may end up living in one of those after I go through it. I found another one with a 606 that's very clean so I may turbo a the stock engine in that if I get it and see how well it holds up. I dunno I'm all over the place with cars.
 
so here we go with the engine tear down and reseal, i pulled the engine from the e300 and powerwashed it, it came out amazingly well.

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after
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got it stripped down to a long block and as you can see it has the old style vacuum pump. the early style vacuum pumps explode, its not a matter of if, its a matter of when. and when these puppies go they barf the guts straight into the timing chain and pretty much destroy the engine. so its a good idea if you have one of these early ones to just replace it right away if you dont know the history. considering ive parted a few 606s i had a new style timing cover, vacuum pump and oil jet which i will show how to replace here.

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ass you can see the injection pump gear has a wave too it. thats where the original vacuum pump bearing rides on and its just a roller bearing. the updated old style ones are sealed and tend to last longer.

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the stud next to it has a oil squirter to lubricate the bearing, when doing this swap you need to replace the oil squirter with the late style squirter that only has one oil jet out the side to lubricate the chain and slider. i have found on these the easiest way to get them out is with a slide hammer and some vice grips. you could easily get a dowel puller for it as well but since its not going to be reused you can just gorilla it out.

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the updated oil jet seals to the front cover via a o ring so as i said you need to install the new front cover from a 97+

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also this is a good time to verify your timing. you can do that with the cams and crank pretty easily these chains do stretch about 5-6 degrees but you can actually work around that by basically retiming the engine and getting the slack in the right spots i have found. but you really should line everything up and lock the motor before doing this because you have to transfer the timing pointer over to the new cover.

i found on these older engines they actually have a om603 crankshaft in them and use a actual woodruff key instead of the spring steel for the crank gear and balancer. much more robust because there are horror stories of people chucking the balancer off with moderate power and a stick shift.

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this is the 96+ style

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crank molt torque is extremely crucial on this style, people say that the 05-06 cdi bolt is stronger which it is by grade but if you torque it right im sure its fine.

i put the newer style non bolt together balancer on and got the timing pointer situated and pulled the head off. the head and prechambers looked good. the glow plugs were completely siezed so that was interesting removing them, i just used my 3/8 impact to break them loose and get the carbon off of them

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the head was in extremely good shape, i cleaned all the carbon out of the ports and removed all the prechambers and gave them a good cleaning and reinstalled them.

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after that i copper sprayed the turbo headgasket and installed it and addressed the injection pump.

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the car was a one year only mechanical 606 so the cam profile in the pump is very sought after, so i set the timing at 14 degrees ATDC and removed the cruise control motor and removed the rs203 pump to send to diesemeken.

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i installed a spare 603 turbo pump from a 3.0, due to the 5.5 elements its not going to make the power a stock 606 makes but for now it will be fine just to get it going

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i got a dsl1 on order too, they are pretty cheap and i do want to get into tuning on one, you can squeeze good power out of a stock edc 6mm pump and the drivability is alot better at higher power levels. so we will see what the meken pump ends up on but for now i just have to reshim the injectors and fire it up.
 
Got my turbo and manifold bolted on that I got for cheap on the diesel forums, the turbo to manifold doesn't have a gasket normally but I like to put one there. Lucky enough a Ford 6.7 y pipe gasket is almost a direct fit!

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Deleted the fuel thermostat to clean up the lines and leak points. Cut out a thermostat delete out of some steel and bolted it on.

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Got my injector shims kit out and shimmed and adjusted the n/a injectors to 135bar as opposed to 115bar the n/a cars had. The nozzles we're firad 314s which seem to be the go to currently. They popped and atomized fine so I left them. Installed the bleed off pipes and installed the oil pump which I forgot to take pictures of.

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Also in actual car news went on a camping trip with the lady for Valentine's day, ended up getting a spot at limekiln about 25 miles south of big sur. Drove all the way down to Cambria to go rock hunting at moonstone beach. Amazingly with the ac on the whole way and on those long hills and windy road the car got 28mpg! I love this thing and it is damn near perfect. Just need to start doing some minor cleaning and detail work to get the outside looking good! There are a few minor suspension changes I want to do but that will be a little further down the road.


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installed the jared speaker grills, very nice pieces, highly recommend, the install instructions are dead on as well

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found a n/a 606 at the yard on half off day so i pulled the cylinder head, injectors, cam carrier, valve cover and injector cover. snapped off my stahl wille m10 xzn socket on the last bolt so i had to run to autozone and get a toyota head bolt socket and hammer it in there to get the last bolt out.

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so now ive mentioned this on another build thread and in pms to other potential 606 project members about the valve seat recession issue, there is a problem with this and there is very little data about it but here is cylinder head number 4 that has had this issue and its always on number 6. so if you have a n/a 606 i highly recommend pulling the head and inspecting it because yea this happens. this engine looked very well taken care of and the car was in a pretty nasty accident. regardless even if you pull the heads and dont really want to deal with the seat issue the prechambers are worth quite a bit because they are pretty much nla and the dealers that doi still have them want about 250-300 a piece for them.

cylinder 5

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as you can see the valve protrudes past the face of the head

cylinder 6

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i know this thread is basically turned into a how to on 606 cobbling but i enjoy it and i hope it helps any other interested in this swap
 
I should've grabbed that NA head. Maybe I will on thursday if it's still there

get one of these and a big breaker bar

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-...sprefix=m10+xzn+socket+,tools,117&sr=1-3&th=1

also the upper tensioner/spring carrier stud needs to be extracted to get the cams out, its internally threaded m6x1.0 i basically take the plastic bracket off and thread a valve cover bolt in and just stack wrenches between the bolt and the head and tighten the bolt and it should pull out unless its super rusty. otherwise if it doesnt budge youre gonna have to pull the rad and core support out and slide hammer it out so if it doesnt feel like its moving dont go crazy with it. the lower stud you have to pull is recessed in the head under the upper water neck. that one is pretty hard to get out at the junk yard so for that one i usually just break the chain guide off once the other stud is out. also 9mm 12point socket for the cams. you also have to take the oil filter housing off because its a water cooled oil cooler so thats not very fun. you have to pull the starter. depending on the year they use e torx for the fuel filter housing and a ton of torx bolts scattered throughout like the cam gear. and there are allen bolts securing the head to the front cover that can kinda get covered in oil and sludge and not be visable.
 
Whelp thing got out of control fast on my end. Nothing bad, I just found a car that I've always wanted for a good price. It's a 1992 Gmc typhoon, it's been sitting in a garage since 2001. It's been a California car it's whole life. Unfortunately these early 90s gmcs had terrible paint on the body and like no paint on the chassis. Body is perfectly straight which is nice and just has surface rust underneath. Ended up changing the oil and filter. Found it had a dead fuel pump so I swapped in a new fuel pump and drained the fuel. Threw some 101 octane in it and flushed out the rails. Fired it up and drove it 20 miles home! Ran great. Suprisingly peppy.

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