Need Clutch advice.

Just previously done the T5 swap. Using a Clutchnet 215 mm Red pp and organic disc 'rated' at 450hp. I only have 200 miles on it and am fully aware of a break-in period. I'm worried because I see many horror stories about clutch discs from different companies not being what they're described as. As of now, my car is lowered to around 15psi so I don't slip the clutch at every moment, but I can still get the clutch to slip in 3rd. Is this normal? Am I being paranoid? I've read articles describing that a clutch disc needs to wear down before the clamping load applies fully. Is that the case here.

Jack

If its slipping now it will only get worse....I have never had a clutch slip that gets better.

There's lots of talk about the cool paint that clutchnet uses.

As has been stated, I don't think it will get better if it's already slipping.

I assume you're using the stock flywheel?

EivlEvo said:

There's lots of talk about the cool paint that clutchnet uses.

As has been stated, I don't think it will get better if it's already slipping.

I assume you're using the stock flywheel?

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It's a flat flywheel machined for LH2.4. Fairly fresh but I didn't resurface as I thought it looked fair.

Mind you, I have only 200 miles on the new clutch.

Advice huh? Next time you install a new clutch, resurface the flywheel and follow the break in period. Seeing as how it is too late for that, quit doing 15psi third gear pulls and baby it for a few hundred miles to let that clutch break in and match up to the imperfections on the flywheel.

Hope it "corrects" itself.

All this bad clutchnet press....leaning more towards South Bend clutch.

J_Jones said:

Advice huh? Next time you install a new clutch, resurface the flywheel and follow the break in period. Seeing as how it is too late for that, quit doing 15psi third gear pulls and baby it for a few hundred miles to let that clutch break in and match up to the imperfections on the flywheel.

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^^reasonable answer.

Note: Not trying to start a debate on which company to use, just asking a general question.

Me saying I can get it to slip, doesn't mean I do it religiously, or ever for that matter. Anyway, thanks for the help, hope it'll sort itself out.

Jack

LeedomtoFreedom said:

It's a flat flywheel machined for LH2.4. Fairly fresh but I didn't resurface as I thought it looked fair.

Mind you, I have only 200 miles on the new clutch.

Click to expand...

I was inquiring because I was curious as to why you didn't go larger than 215mm or to see if it was an option with your flywheel.

Regardless, I suppose the best advice is to simply roll with it through break in and see whats what? Worst case, it never ends up holding the power and you need a new clutch. Best case, it works and you go about your day. It's probably worth driving cautiously for a bit to not have to drop the trans again haha.

EivlEvo said:

I was inquiring because I was curious as to why you didn't go larger than 215mm or to see if it was an option with your flywheel.

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Honestly I just went with what I had. Might have been a better option in retrospect. Hindsight 20/20. What's done is done so don't bend me over a barrel.

I was doing some research and found that pressure plates are designed to produce the most force at a certain area in the throw. And a thicker clutch disc would cause the PP to not produce it's full output until the disc has worn down to a thickness it can handle. I recall talking to clutchnet and hearing that they use a slightly thicker which might be good, but would cause the previous to happen if they haven't adjusted the height of the PP surface.

I'd like to take the tranny out and take some measurements but I'm too lazy.

I've also read in many articles that people often shim the PP to allow for a thicker disc or to allow the throw to reach maximum pressure. Any thoughts?

I mean all fair points. I'm certain there are people on here running a 215mm setup and not having issues. I think it depends on what your end goals were/are. Nothing wrong with using what you've got. Shimming should only be necessary if you're outside of spec. If the clutchnet squad said your disc should be X thick for our PP and you're using all that and it's still slipping, I'd speak with them further.

IF I had to yank the damn thing again, I'd consider re-drilling or purchasing a setup for 228mm though... I don't think it's as "simple" as it used to be (the Saab PP is challenging to get (I had to grab 2 of them and it took months)) and going to Kennedy with it's odd spacers is well... expensive.

If it makes you feel any better, when I forgot my ring gear on my T5 the other week I was able to pull the trans, all the way, yank the ring gear off of my donor car, hammer it onto my flywheel and reinstall the trans in a little over 4 hours solo on jackstands. So like... go team! Or something...

Ah that's the beauty of it. Try installing a clutch disc backwards ! That was the most fun, especially with that slimy, oil covered m46.

I bought both PP and disc from clutchnet, so I would imagine they design it in spec. He knew all of the parameters and was familiar with the 240 t5 swap, so there was no miscommunication.