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240 PLEASE HELP Car Dies Despite New Battery and Alternator

Okay this is weird. It is starting and running weak. It would appear the battery is running out of power again.

Running Battery ~10v

Battery w Car Off ~12v
 
Small red wire goes to the tab terminal on the back of the alternator. If it's a Bosch 70, 80, or 100 amp alternator, the tab is next to the stud for the B+ wire (large red wire). If Nippondenso, tab is next to the stud, but sticks out of the case, instead of being attached to a smaller stud with a nut. Ground wire (usually blue with ring terminals on both ends) attaches to the stud that's closest to the alternator mounting bolt at the bottom. Taping the wire just means that the alternator won't excite at idle, which means it'll randomly charge, instead of charging reliably, provided the voltage regulator brushes are contacting the rings inside the alternator.

I suspect that if you wire the alternator correctly, it'll work.
 
centason said:
What?
Click to expand...

I hope he thinks "grounding" means connecting


Ethan, you need to hook all the wires up correctly. That taped up wire tells the alternator when to charge, it is important too.
another problem is the blue wire. have a competent person make a wire to connect the alternator to the engine metal, it is called a "ground" wire, and allows the electricity make it's way back to the battery.
often that wire degrades, and needs to be replaced even if it looks good.

the root problem that is causing the discharging battery and the power steering problem is the pulley on the engine that drive the alternator, power steering and the aircon is broken, and needs to be replaced.
you need this:
https://www.amazon.com/MTC-VM375-9135194-Crankshaft-Vibration/dp/B01CGPTIZ4

and someone competent to replace it on your car, it sounds like you are out of your element on this one, donny


Tell your mechanic you need your crank pulley replaced and you would like a new ground wire for your alternator.

You should not drive the car other than to the repair shop, it can easily overheat from the pulley not turning the water pump, so watch your temp gauge on the ride to have it fixed.
 
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I still think the power steering issue is related. Did you verify that the belts are in good shape and tensioned properly? Did you check the crank pulley?
 
I have had such bad luck with Advance Auto Parts. I ask them to test every starter or alternator I buy from them before I leave the store. I would bet two donuts and a small black coffee that the "new" alternator you bought is not working.

I would also be suspicious of the wiring to the alternator being damaged where it passes under the engine in front. That has happened to MANY people on this forum.
 
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My alternator has an integral regulator, so where does the spade go?
 
Well the black box and spade attached stays where it is. Ground goes on the stud, other two wires go to the nut terminals. Small red on left, and big on right. You should only have 3 wires for your alternator. Power, exciter, and ground. Ground attaches to spot on block. Said spot should be cleaned. If not attached, alternator won't charge. Test two red wires with meter before starting car. Both should have voltage. Exciter starts the charge at cranking. If all hooked up correctly and alternator still won't charge, take it back. It's probably bad. AutoZone, Advanced, etc, have issues with their rebuilt products, especially alternators. I would find a reputable rebuilder in your area and buy from them.
 
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Look at the pic in post #31. The blue wire is ground and goes to a case stud. The black wire is for the oil pressure sender. The large red wire goes on the large stud. The small red wire connects to the small stud. It's supposed to have a male spade connector attached to the stud so the small red wire is pushed on. You can cut off the spade terminal and crimp a ring terminal if you don't have the male spade terminal.
 
Ethanquin10 said:
Did you scroll down and see the pic of the wires? Any idea what the black/blue one is? Do I leave the spade wire hanging?
Click to expand...

Dude the one with all around round connector(should be black) is for oil pressure sender goes on smoothly on top of said.
- Ground blue from engine block TO ground(any closer stud on a back of alt)
- Exciter small spade(might need new terminal for your new alt) TO small nut terminal
- Battery big red one TO big nut terminal.

Hook it up and should be all good to go unless alt is trashed or shorted by your filthy doings.
 
Wired the two red wires. Battery reads 11.5v and dropping while running. Alternator reads 11.3v.
Battery reads 11.4v with car off.

Going to go exchange the battery for a new one.

Will rewire this correctly after I obtain a new battery. Thanks everyone.
 
Ethanquin10 said:
Wired the two red wires. Battery reads 11.5v and dropping while running. Alternator reads 11.3v.
Battery reads 11.4v with car off.

Going to go exchange the battery for a new one.

Will rewire this correctly after I obtain a new battery. Thanks everyone.
Click to expand...

Connect the damn ground to alt already and clean the other end of it on the block, unless alt is dead or it's shorting somewhere it should give a read of 13v+ on the alt/battery
 
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