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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

does the pressure plate have thicker straps to take the extra power it can hold?
dp -ish I was sure it didn't post that first one...
 
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I don't know. It's off at the MS being balanced now, can't look at it. I'll assume (until proven otherwise) that Spec knows what they are doing.
 
Machine shop called - said it needed to have about 4 grams removed to balance it.

Picking it up at lunch. Should be back together and driving again by this evening... if I weren't going to go ride my bike instead. It'll be up and running by the weekend. And I'll start doing some tuning in the higher RPM ranges.
 
OK, time to put some flywheel on a Volvo!

Put the shiny billet flywheel up to the crank. Put on a couple of bolts. Snug them down. Turn the crank a little. Err, scraping, that's not right. Hmmm...
IMG_9484.jpg


The last little bit of the rim the ring gear sits on is hitting the block, ever so slightly. Those inward protruding ledges along the oil pan mating surface:
IMG_9484.jpg


OK, I'm no blushing virgin to making parts fit that don't want to fit. So I grab that trusty standby tool, zip ties. No, those won't work here. *scratch head* Ah-hah! JB Weld on the end of the crank to space it outward some. No... OK, angle grinder to the block, grind off the offending parts.
*brief interlude where sparks fly*
IMG_9486.jpg

IMG_9487.jpg

IMG_9488.jpg


Now it fits without rubbing!
IMG_9489.jpg


Pressure plate bolted on:
IMG_9490.jpg


Next up - the whole setup is a bit shorter than the stock pressure plate and flywheel. Test fit shows.... no travel on the clutch fork available:
IMG_9491.jpg


Here's another picture I took that shows.... pretty much nothing. But why waste some perfectly good pixels?
IMG_9492.jpg


Oh noes, it's not a perfect fit - time to throw it all in the trash and fire of some flaming emails!!!!!!! OK, not really, good thing I took geometry some 2 decades ago (or more) and understand triangles and levers and the Trilateral Commission (oops, I've said too much). All it needs is a spacer on the other side of the fork. Dig through the spare bolt box, and aside from thinking (for the 54th time) that I really need to sort the metric bolts and nuts from the standard, I find a longer bolt. And some nice tall chunky nuts to act as spacers. Maybe 5/8" worth, more or less?
IMG_9495.jpg


And voila, like magic - about the right amount of fork travel:
IMG_9496.jpg


And that's about it for tonight, dinner was ready, and I don't feel like getting grimy again tonight. There's always tomorrow night to put the trans back in.
 
so is the offset wrong on the flywheel? hows the starter working now since the back of the bendix will be closer to the ring gear?
 
Starter isn't touching the flywheel currently. I'm assuming it will work properly. If not - some washers between the block and it? I don't think the 'backspacing' on the flywheel is off by more than a tiny amount. The Saab pressure plate is just a little on the short side. And maybe the outward side of the flywheel is a little shorter? But probably mostly the Saab pressure plate.

Still, just a little grinding and some spacers - no big deal. Should work just fine once the trans goes on.
 
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Cool, I was thinking the back side of the starter gear will contact while cranking...and im sure if you space the starter with a full shim and keep it "hubcentric" should be just fine.

Good work.....well ahead of me at this point!
 
Hope to drive it around this evening. Just need to poke the trans back in. Which is far easier with a T5 - you don't have to maneuver that starter hump on the bell housing around the firewall - you can just slide the trans straight in and attach 4 easier to get to bolts.

(Side benefit - taking off those hard to get to bellhousing bolts is dead simple once the trans is off and out of the way -woot)
 
PS: I'll bet this is going to make my lumpy cam low vac idle even more unstable, lulz. I foresee some tweaking of the idle parameters. At least they've improved idle control a lot (it seems) in MS2/3.

Might have to raise the idle speed up some more.
 
That's right, you have some bigass cams! What's the weight of the wheel again? I have a stock flat that I weighed at 18lbs and with my cams, I can do a 950 idle around 9 inches of vacuum.
 
It was idling at about 1100 with 10" of vac, if the idle fell much below 800 or so the vac goes straight up to 0". Heh, I may nneed to play around with the cam timing some.

The new flywheel is around 16 lbs, IIRC.

I was aplying around with the new 'test' mode in tunerstudio for the idle valve. And found that it doesn't do *anything* from 0% up to about 76% DC, and then goes from closed to full open at about 85%. I tried about all of the different frequencies too, different buzzing from the IAC, but within a % or two of the same behaviour. Luckily enough, the new firmware calculates IAC DC down to the .1% level, otherwise it would be pretty notchy if it was doing 1% increments like MS1 was (IIRC).
 
That's right, you have some bigass cams! What's the weight of the wheel again? I have a stock flat that I weighed at 18lbs and with my cams, I can do a 950 idle around 9 inches of vacuum.

at 1100 rpm idle on stock 16v NA cams im seeing 21 inches of vac on a stock dogdish :-D

Edit: I guess thats good?
 
Lots of vac makes for a more stable idle at least. Add a little air, idle speeds right up. Without much vac, you have to add a lot of air to speed it up a little.

Started mine up tonight, it idles just fine. I'm starting to think the rear axle is a little bit wonky. I had it up on jack stands running about 2 or 3000 rpm in 4th - it just seemed a little 'notchy' somehow.

The Spec clutch doesn't feel especially heavy or anything.
 
It better grab like a prom night date or I'll be pissed. I didn't spend $argh to have another clutch that can't flat shift.
 
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