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Old 04-23-2018, 11:14 PM   #1
t8fanning
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Default Source for new main cap bolts?

Is there anywhere that sells new main cap bolts? IPD doesn't.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:27 PM   #2
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They're still available new from Volvo.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...n-screw-970908
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:27 PM   #3
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Tasca had a few week wait as did VP. Skandix was going to absolutely kill me on shipping but they have many ready to ship.

If you feel like being resourceful, they are M12 x 1.75 x 80 MM and are Grade(Class?) 12.9.

Alternatively, I have a set of Yoshifab ARP Mains that I do not plan to install. We can continue via PM if interested.

Last edited by MDVLN; 04-23-2018 at 11:33 PM..
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:40 PM   #4
t8fanning
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Originally Posted by MDVLN View Post
Alternatively, I have a set of Yoshifab ARP Mains that I do not plan to install. We can continue via PM if interested.
Thanks for the offer, but I have a set of ARP mains in there currently. The problem is that the ARP nuts are too tall, which causes the oil pump hard line to not seat properly in the block. My plan is to replace the one offending stud/nut with a stock bolt.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:50 PM   #5
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I got one stock main cap bolt in my garage if you need it. Used..
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:52 PM   #6
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Ah, I see. That is unfortunate.
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:06 PM   #7
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I would clearance the arp bolt before I spent any money.
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:45 PM   #8
t8fanning
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I don't think modifying the stud is an option. It fouls by like 0.25".

I ordered some ARP m12x1.75 80 mm bolts. I'll probably use one of those instead of a used bolt.
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:37 PM   #9
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You're not the first person to use ARP bolts there. I feel like there's another solution?
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:07 PM   #10
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That's what I figured, but I have no idea what other people have done. Josh said it was supposed to fit, but it's a long way away from that. Seems like I have to modify the hard line or use a bolt.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:19 PM   #11
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:48 PM   #12
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Threads aren't sticking out too far, so the stud is seated properly.



Results in like 0.25" of interference with the oil pump hard line. Cutting the stud and nut really isn't feasible.

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Old 04-25-2018, 11:09 PM   #13
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Keep posted on this please.
Same combo going together soon...
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Old 04-26-2018, 01:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Keep posted on this please.
Same combo going together soon...
Sure. My plan is to use an ARP bolt instead of a stud in that one spot. I ordered a 5 pack of m12x1.75 80 mm long ARP bolts. I'm hoping they'll have shallower heads and will fit. I figure it'll provide a very similar clamping force and be ok.
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Old 04-30-2018, 07:33 PM   #15
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Wanna sell me an extra bolt? It's either use bolt, cut n weld line if it'll clear inside pan ( have to check clearance) or possibly AN? Idk how hose will hold up inside oil pan.
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Old 04-30-2018, 07:38 PM   #16
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Sure. I'll have to see if it fits first though.

I thought about using an AN line, but I really don't think it would work well. It's submerged and hot. I think hard line is the only way to go. I was going to cut and weld two lines into one, but I'm worried about the weld quality, and if it will seal properly. It's just risky and cheaper to just get a bolt imo.
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Old 05-01-2018, 09:49 PM   #17
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Well my buddy is handy with a tig torch. I prefer the hardline myself. I have a few here I might hack up. Easy enough to test for leaks too. I cant imagine we are the only two to ever run into this. I just had a line hone done and don't want to disturb anything honestly. Fancy 2.5 stroker I'm wasting time on...
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Old 05-03-2018, 12:42 AM   #18
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The ARP bolt works. I'll probably use this unless someone else has a better solution. I'm also going to post a new thread in performance and give it a more related title for better visibility.
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