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DSM CAS TDC ?? and other abbreviations

I

Ilvmetal

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2016
Location
none of your business
I will be replacing my 24 tooth wheel for it has lots of rust from sitting all winter. Is there a way to find TDC on a Mitsu CAS with the Yoshi adapter?

Other than the visual method...
IMG_6016.JPG
 
Can't you just use a fine sand paper to remove the rust?

I think that the TDC procedure can be found in the DSM CAS thread.
 
poulrais said:
Can't you just use a fine sand paper to remove the rust?

I think that the TDC procedure can be found in the DSM CAS thread.
Click to expand...

Think your right, I sanded it last night and it looks fine. I put the disk back in and the motor was not happy, backfiring and such.
Problem is I also replaced the T belt with the gate HP blue belt so that adds a factor.

I have the cams set with the cover marks and the crank at 0 Degrees, maybe should be at 10 degrees?
Also the intermediate shaft has two marks, thought it was the 3 o'clock on for TDC but maybe those marks don't relate to TDC anymore after the DSM CAS mod.
AT7yC3e.jpg


This motor runs like a jet fighter, can't wait to see what else I can break with the new Ford 8.8 installed!!
 
Ilvmetal said:
Think your right, I sanded it last night and it looks fine. I put the disk back in and the motor was not happy, backfiring and such.
Problem is I also replaced the T belt with the gate HP blue belt so that adds a factor.

I have the cams set with the cover marks and the crank at 0 Degrees, maybe should be at 10 degrees?
Also the intermediate shaft has two marks, thought it was the 3 o'clock on for TDC but maybe those marks don't relate to TDC anymore after the DSM CAS mod.
AT7yC3e.jpg


This motor runs like a jet fighter, can't wait to see what else I can break with the new Ford 8.8 installed!!
Click to expand...

did you play with the CAS adapter adjustment?

You may be a tooth off on the auxiliary pulley. I know I sometimes had problems getting it right when I got the tbelt off. It's been a long time and I don't quite remember what the procedure was exactly. Do you have a timing light?

You have to go in Tunerstudio and set the timing fixed at 10 deg and check with the timing light on the crank pulley where the timing stands. If it's not too far off you can adjust it by loosening the 2 Allen bolts on the CAS and turn the adapter on either side until you're aligned at the 10 deg mark.
 
/\ /\ /\ Fixed 10 degrees and then try to mechanically set it by rotating the CAS. If you can't get enough adjustment that way to get the real timing to 10 degrees, then you have the choice of redoing the timing belt, or pulling the CAS and moving it over a gear tooth on the int shaft, or futzing with the crank angle settings in Tuner Studio. The CAS is always set to send the 'TDC' signal well in advance of actual TDC, because the computer needs to know about it before it happens (because sparks happen well in advance) - but how far in advance is configurable.
 
You first want to align the timing belt normally (crank & cam marks on top, aux marks to right). Then make sure that the CAS disk isn't flipped over (find a picture that shows the disk and D-shaped shaft). The big slot in the disk should be sticking halfway out from under the sensor. If not, you'll need to pull the CAS drive shaft and rotate it by a tooth. Once it looks about right, you can fine tune the CAS rotation by running MS in fixed timing mode and using a timing light to match the offset in MS.

[In theory, you could randomly align the aux shaft and CAS, then correct for it in the MS settings, but it's easier to use the standard setup so that others won't be confused by your .msq settings.]
 
And redoing the timing belt to get it correct is certainly the best approach - in case you ever have to replace it in the future you won't have the rest of the setup dependent on some 'quirky' alignment of the int shaft.
 
bobxyz said:
You first want to align the timing belt normally (crank & cam marks on top, aux marks to right). Then make sure that the CAS disk isn't flipped over (find a picture that shows the disk and D-shaped shaft). The big slot in the disk should be sticking halfway out from under the sensor. If not, you'll need to pull the CAS drive shaft and rotate it by a tooth. Once it looks about right, you can fine tune the CAS rotation by running MS in fixed timing mode and using a timing light to match the offset in MS.

[In theory, you could randomly align the aux shaft and CAS, then correct for it in the MS settings, but it's easier to use the standard setup so that others won't be confused by your .msq settings.]
Click to expand...

who gets confused by different tdc angles? what's confusing is seeing 50 degrees of timing at 14psi because someone *didnt* set the tdc angle correctly.
 
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