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Old 09-19-2017, 11:28 AM   #1001
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Originally Posted by sdturbo View Post
They were from a time when turbo tuning was a black art.
That's not exclusively true. The shop that o-ringed my block (which was done because the guy who paid for the machine work went all-in) says they still do it frequently for the big boost Subaru guys and the diesel truck guys pushing 40+psi.

I've got stainless wire rings in the block and run an .040" Cometic MLS without any issues. I did check the torque on my studs after ~1,500 miles and every one needed a snug.
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:49 AM   #1002
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Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
That's not exclusively true. The shop that o-ringed my block (which was done because the guy who paid for the machine work went all-in) says they still do it frequently for the big boost Subaru guys and the diesel truck guys pushing 40+psi.

I've got stainless wire rings in the block and run an .040" Cometic MLS without any issues. I did check the torque on my studs after ~1,500 miles and every one needed a snug.
Checking the torque after xxx miles on a 16V head bolts is a major pain in the arse since you have to remove the upper part of the head to do so and reseal it with pink stuff.
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:54 AM   #1003
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Yeah, I'm sort of half (3/4 maybe?) planning on trying to do a retorque this time, but it is a major PITA.

Obviously less of a PITA than swapping a HG, but it's also no guarantee that the HG will last a long time either.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:01 PM   #1004
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I did the swede thing and cranked the studs down to like 110. did *not* need snugging, but the oil leaks they came a plenty when I did that :sigh:
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:16 PM   #1005
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Originally Posted by poulrais View Post
Checking the torque after xxx miles on a 16V head bolts is a major pain in the arse since you have to remove the upper part of the head to do so and reseal it with pink stuff.
so I've heard. Just providing an anecdote that might support it being worth the effort.

I torqued to 90ft lbs.
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:41 PM   #1006
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so I've heard. Just providing an anecdote that might support it being worth the effort.

I torqued to 90ft lbs.
I torqued to a 100 with ARP studs and their torque lube. I had what looked like an internal leak for awhile and the result was that my coolant tank had to be filled and at the same time my catch can had to be emptied when I ran into the 18+ PSI zone. I dropped the boost to 14 PSI and that help and suddenly the coolant consumption stopped and the catch can didn't catch coolant anymore.

I'm running up to 20 PSI now and still no coolant problem and catch can is doing its normal job. No freaking idea why and how this came back to normal by itself as I was just about to lift the head again and inspect the Cometic MLS HG for a break.
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Old 09-20-2017, 02:52 AM   #1007
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things are getting crusty ;) like self repairing leaks through residuecontamination hehe



100 ft lbs?! this is a 135Newton Meters.. O_O how do you do that without snapping bolts?
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:19 AM   #1008
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I torqued my ARP head studs to 110Ft Lbs on my 16V head. I feel like I might year the head down and retorque after some driving time after this thread.
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Old Yesterday, 08:08 AM   #1009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
things are getting crusty ;) like self repairing leaks through residuecontamination hehe



100 ft lbs?! this is a 135Newton Meters.. O_O how do you do that without snapping bolts?
No bolts... ARP studs they are.
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Old Yesterday, 07:02 PM   #1010
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I bought a machinist's flat edge (in theory, within .001" of true flat) and checked the block and head for flatness. Did checks concentrating on the two areas where failures seemed evident - between the two bolts on the intake side of #2 and #3.

Both the head and the block seem very flat. I couldn't find any way to fit my thinnest feeler gauge (.002") in anywhere, not in the failure spots, or elsewhere. I really don't think the issue lies with the block or head. Although I will install it dry and torque it a bit higher this time.

I did notice, however, that the old gasket extended into the bore *ever* so slightly, on the intake sides of #2 and #3 only. Everywhere else, with the gasket sitting down and placed by the alignment dowels, you could slide your finger up the edge of the bore and off over the gasket without feeling it, but you'd catch just the slightest edge of the gasket in those two spots, coincidentally the two spots where it failed/was starting to fail?

I wonder if the machining on the bores is slightly off, or if the bores in the gasket or slightly off, or if that even means anything at all. I'll check to see if the new gasket feels the same way when I get it in.
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Old Yesterday, 08:25 PM   #1011
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Whats the part number of the gasket you are running? The gasket being too small or located incorrectly would be a major issue.
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Old Yesterday, 08:42 PM   #1012
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Cometic C4499-040 - the .040 version.

http://www.shopengineparts.com/i-249...bore-each.html

The gasket sticking out in the bore might be due to the failure, possibly. Where the crimp was flattened out and split.

I'll see if the new one does that as well. It was the only weird thing I could see between the head, block, and gasket.
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Old Today, 02:50 AM   #1013
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Originally Posted by poulrais View Post
No bolts... ARP studs they are.
Yeah sry.. in german its called Bolzen(for screws and bolts) and Stehbolzen(studs) I sometimes mess that up in english ;)

I have the ARP alike from KLRacing and i was too pussy to tighte them down more than 105NM or so.. but i lubed with engineoil.. it felt like ... ... oh.. .. no more.. *snap* you know that feel? ;)
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Old Today, 09:00 AM   #1014
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Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
Yeah sry.. in german its called Bolzen(for screws and bolts) and Stehbolzen(studs) I sometimes mess that up in english ;)

I have the ARP alike from KLRacing and i was too pussy to tighte them down more than 105NM or so.. but i lubed with engineoil.. it felt like ... ... oh.. .. no more.. *snap* you know that feel? ;)
Yeah I know that feel.. That's why I use ARP's special torque lube!

I removed the head on a Whiteblock engine last week and I was sure at a certain point that a bolt would snap! I had to use an 18 inch breaker bar with another extension and the sound it made when it gave wasn't to reassuring! But they all got out fine in the end.
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Old Today, 09:49 AM   #1015
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It's pretty common for whiteblock head bolts to snap on the way out, usually the stub will just spin out though.
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Old Today, 09:58 AM   #1016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
Yeah sry.. in german its called Bolzen(for screws and bolts) and Stehbolzen(studs) I sometimes mess that up in english ;)

I have the ARP alike from KLRacing and i was too pussy to tighte them down more than 105NM or so.. but i lubed with engineoil.. it felt like ... ... oh.. .. no more.. *snap* you know that feel? ;)
Yeak. You're turning it, the effort is going up as you turn it... and then it stops going up because the bolt is yielding. *DANGER*
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