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Old 01-14-2014, 07:58 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassGuy View Post
Like what? I haven't looked too far into it, but a bunch of older threads seem to indicate a fondness for the B230 block over the B234.
To use a B234 bottom end (in a 7/900) you need a different crossmember. The left lower motor mount bracket is built into the crossmember on factory equipped B234 cars. I had to switch the crossmember to mount the B234 in my 740. I tried several combinations of motor mounts first and couldn't get anything else to work.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:39 PM   #27
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So what's the advantage of the B234? I would have thought it would have been the other around.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:04 PM   #28
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you could weld a bracket to the crossmember for the motor mount
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:12 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Wren View Post
So what's the advantage of the B234? I would have thought it would have been the other around.
Reinforced block.
Lots of places to tap the oil galleys or drain back to.
Good crank.
Big external oil pump. Flows more but used to seize, taking out the cam belt.

Obviously, the 8 valvers are a bolt in. 16 valvers aren't.
6 of one.....unless you're starting with a 16v car IMO.
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:14 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by poulson01 View Post
6 of one.....unless you're starting with a 16v car IMO.
I am

Anyone with experience of a B234F+T, using the YoshiFab exhaust adapter and stock turbo/manifold, where does it put the downpipe? I.e. is it possible to use a stock 740 Turbo downpipe without modification?
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:00 AM   #31
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Big external oil pump. Flows more but used to seize, taking out the cam belt.
Never heard of them seizing, but the original bolt and gear would crack.

IIRC there was a recall - either way I always change the bolt with every T-belt change, inspect the gear for any cracks, and usually put a new gear on after a few changes.
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:23 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poulson01 View Post
Reinforced block.
Lots of places to tap the oil galleys or drain back to.
Good crank.
Big external oil pump. Flows more but used to seize, taking out the cam belt.

Obviously, the 8 valvers are a bolt in. 16 valvers aren't.
6 of one.....unless you're starting with a 16v car IMO.
umm.. block isn't reinforced... cranks the same the external pump doesn't seize... the balance shaft belt snaps and takes the timing belt out with it... also you cant drain a turbo drain into a oil galley since they are pressurized. Basically everything you said is wrong.
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Old 01-16-2014, 07:28 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast242gt View Post
umm.. block isn't reinforced... cranks the same the external pump doesn't seize... the balance shaft belt snaps and takes the timing belt out with it... also you cant drain a turbo drain into a oil galley since they are pressurized. Basically everything you said is wrong.
It is reinforced. There is a diagram right in this very thread. The cranks are different, even if they're cast. I posted pictures of them side by side, hit them with hammers etc.
And the pumps seized. The balancer belts would snap.... bolts would break.....whatever.
And, yes. You can drain to one of the oil returns but probably not a pressurized galley
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassGuy View Post
I am

Anyone with experience of a B234F+T, using the YoshiFab exhaust adapter and stock turbo/manifold, where does it put the downpipe? I.e. is it possible to use a stock 740 Turbo downpipe without modification?
Yes it is, the hole Manifold/Turbo thingy almost sits there where it should with an 8v head.. only 1.5cm out of alignment.. i fitted my 3" pipe from ferrita without any problems... but between coldside and frame its just my pinkytop which fits between.. ein Fotzenhaar sozusagen ;)
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:45 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poulson01 View Post
It is reinforced. There is a diagram right in this very thread.
Volvo P/N 1346432 is supposedly a "Stay". I'm actually not running that on my B234 as it interfered with the oil pan. It's not really much of any support really. My best guess is it's to dampen vibrations at high RPM for NVH purposes, it's a little aluminum strap basically.

Quote:
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And the pumps seized. The balancer belts would snap.... bolts would break.....whatever.
I've never heard of pumps seizing - is this possibly like the core shift myth we used to talk about?
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:15 PM   #36
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That "little aluminum strap" is a chunk of steel, about an inch thick.

Forget the seizing pump statement. I had one engine do that (bolt and gear were perfect) and I was told it was common.
So much for my new years resolution, not to get into arguments on TurboBricks!

Edit: We used to? Edit: Deleted!

Last edited by gashog; 01-19-2014 at 12:19 AM..
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:01 PM   #37
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It's not argument, it's healthy discussion! Get the untruths out of the way!
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:44 PM   #38
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Quote:
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It's not argument, it's healthy discussion! Get the untruths out of the way!
I was kidding.

As for the truths, I would take most internet advice with a grain of salt.
I hope I've at least given you a couple things to verify or debunk on your own.
I did actually disect one of these things for myself tho.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:04 PM   #39
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I know there is an updated cam belt pulley on the b234's at some point as the first one tended to break and take it all out. It's not the ones on the cams, but the idler one where the aux shaft is on a b230, but b234 just has that cam belt gear thingy there, that's what breaks if you have the older non updated recalled volvo one, shifts the core to the valve piston crack.


It breaks in the middle where the hole of the bolt holder holds it and the updated one has mo metal there.

Real info Bro...

Other thing is my 16v motor bolt right in stock, cause they are boat 16v motors and they are b230's with 16v head, hey 2.5L steel stroking cranks also...
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:59 PM   #40
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that's the oil pump drive gear simon.
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:18 PM   #41
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About the old vs new oil pump drive pulley.

http://turbobricks.org/forums/showpo...6&postcount=12
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:28 PM   #42
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Here's a related bump question:

Is there a B234 kevlar timing belt available? I know people have used Opel (I think) and 850 belts for B230+16v, but I can't seem to find a B234 specific PN
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:45 PM   #43
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Knox has them...
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:12 PM   #44
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16V has a windage tray also.
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:26 PM   #45
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Knox website seems to be nonexistent
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:44 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Knox website seems to be nonexistent
Lawrence liquidated a lot of **** this year.
You could PM him direct and see if he has anything left.
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:36 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
Knox has them...
For actual B234s, or for B230s with B234 heads? IIRC when I looked a while ago there wasn't anything for the stock tensioner setup, but I would love to be made wrong.
http://mobile.serwis-tv.com/
(I'd buy like two or three belts to have some on the shelf for sure)

Last edited by adrianpike; 09-06-2018 at 06:13 AM..
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:54 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by adrianpike View Post
For actual B234s, or for B230s with B234 heads? IIRC when I looked a while ago there wasn't anything for the stock tensioner setup, but I would love to be made wrong.

(I'd buy like two or three belts to have some on the shelf for sure)
I'm in the same boat. It looks like the B234 is getting a +t in the future; I just want to be prepared
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:12 PM   #49
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Quote:
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I'm in the same boat. It looks like the B234 is getting a +t in the future; I just want to be prepared
Dick Prince knows all this.
His race car evolved from B230ft to B234f+t to B230f 16V t
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:37 PM   #50
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Quote:
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16V has a windage tray also.
Not all of them. I've taken a couple apart and only some of them have it.
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