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Old 07-08-2017, 01:19 PM   #176
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Was a sandals-and-socks elbow-patch-cardigan-wearing bearded college-professor 10mph-under-the-limit-in-the-fast-lane typical Volvo buyer from 1993 really caring about some sort of limited edition numbering?
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:57 AM   #177
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Maybe this could help with the wheels

http://www.tapeworks.com/stripeitall/
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Old 07-11-2017, 02:37 PM   #178
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I saw that too! They're not referring to me, but I'm tempted to go get some tail lights.

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Maybe this could help with the wheels

http://www.tapeworks.com/stripeitall/
That's pretty slick.


I drove the car over the hill to work yesterday, and even though it made it there and back safely, I'm actually a bit disappointed. To be fair, this was the first drive and that's where you discover what needs to still be done, or re-done. But the list is just a lot longer than I expected.

The exhaust is way too loud and drones inside the car. I'm not sure how much of that is due to the lack of sound deadening in the '75, because it's not really that loud outside the car. But it's not comfortable to be in the car after 15 minutes or so on the freeway.

I don't think the overdrive is engaging, because the engine sits at a pretty high RPM at 65mph. So I need to troubleshoot the 4L60E... but don't really want to spend money on it because I'd prefer a T56. I hope it's just a linkage adjustment issue, or a programming issue in the engine computer, or something...

And then because of the urethane motor mounts, it rattles the hell out of the car. The window regulators are buzzing inside the doors from the engine vibrations. It's making me wonder if it's possibly missing on a cylinder or 5, but I don't have any engine codes. Ultimately, it looks like I will build some rubber motor mounts, hopefully using the stock LS or LQ mounts.

It also appears that the rear main is leaking, which sucks worst of all, because I really don't want to pull it back apart in my driveway. what's strange is that the leak has gone from fairly significant to very minor, only leaving a quarter sized spot on the ground now.

And I also seem to have an issue with belt alignment with the ICT accessory relocation brackets, because it shredded and then threw the belt the first time it was revved above 4K. I measured the alternator, idler pulley, and power steering pump about 1/8 further forward than the crank pulley, water pump pulley, and tensioner. I've emailed ICT to see what's up and am waiting to hear back.

It has a bunch of worn out suspension bushings, so it's a little bit terrifying in turns with bumps, but I expected that. I have a full set of rubber suspension bushings for the whole car ready to be installed.

On the bright side, the brakes work pretty well! The car tracks very straight and feels relatively solid, and the seats aren't that bad. The original AM/FM VolvoSound radio and speakers work well, and all the lighting works as it should. Plus, my daughter absolutely loves it.

I'll work out the kinks with time.
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Old 07-11-2017, 02:53 PM   #179
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The od works they just run at high rpm mine sits at 3k at about 70
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:17 PM   #180
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The od works they just run at high rpm mine sits at 3k at about 70
No kidding? I wonder what RPM mine is actually sitting at. I should rig up a tach and see, but it feels and sounds higher than 3k. It certainly seems way more revved up than a Suburban should be when traveling 65mph on the freeway.
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:22 PM   #181
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No kidding? I wonder what RPM mine is actually sitting at. I should rig up a tach and see, but it feels and sounds higher than 3k. It certainly seems way more revved up than a Suburban should be when traveling 65mph on the freeway.
Suburban's got 31+" tall tires.
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:32 PM   #182
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Suburban's got 31+" tall tires.
I have 235/50/17 in the back, which are pretty big at 26" tall, but it's still a difference of 15% from 31" tires. It means that when the Suburban is going 70mph, I'm only going roughly 60mph. But from what I can tell, the Suburban should be sitting around 2K rpms at 70mph, where I feel like mine is at 4K.

I think more of the gearing will have to do with the rear end ratio, which I believe is 3.73 in my Ford 8.8" (Explorer rear end) but I'll have to check the tag to be certain. That's not super tall, but it's also not the shortest ratio.

Either way, something needs improvement. I first need to figure out if my OD is working or not.

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Old 07-11-2017, 03:44 PM   #183
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What engine and transmission management are you using?
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:49 PM   #184
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What engine and transmission management are you using?
Stock computer reflashed by Speartech:
http://www.speartech.com/product_p/24xharnesscable.htm
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:52 PM   #185
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Did you change the tire size and shift patterns on the trans?
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:03 PM   #186
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Did you change the tire size and shift patterns on the trans?
The computer was ordered with these tires specified.

And the stock shifter was modified to work with the trans. So the trans was left alone, but the lever at the bottom of the shifter was extended. That could potentially be the issue, that the OD setting is being passed by and it's going straight to D... but I think that's unlikely.

I haven't re-made the detent plate yet, so right now you can simply move the shifter without pushing the lockout button. So you can feel each click a the transmission, so I can pretty clearly feel when I move it out of N, and into OD, D, 2, and then 1.
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:14 PM   #187
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Not sure about the vibration, I have about 20k miles on mine and they are doing fine. I know the older 240 are kinda clunky old car feeling vs the newer 240. I have owned everything in between. I have cruised 80 mph driving down to AZ-CA and back with no problems.
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:20 PM   #188
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Not sure about the vibration, I have about 20k miles on mine and they are doing fine. I know the older 240 are kinda clunky old car feeling vs the newer 240. I have owned everything in between. I have cruised 80 mph driving down to AZ-CA and back with no problems.
I'm assuming these are poly suspension bushings in the motor mounts, right? Do you happen to know if they have an OEM rubber equivalent that the poly was replacing? Meaning, could I buy stock rubber A arm bushings for a Ford or something, and replace these poly ones with stock rubber?

The other thing I need to check closely is if there's a direct contact happening somewhere that I missed, such as on the cross member or tranny tunnel. That could be the whole problem.
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:45 PM   #189
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If you end up swapping the bushings - check for clearance as the rubber will let the drivetrain sag a bit more under weight. Mine's poly (with a poly torque mount as well) and a modded rubber tranny bushing, to eliminate the vertical give in the mount. Much smoother/quieter than the 5.0L in it before, and it was on all rubber. With used drivetrain, I suppose there's a chance that you've got a balancer issue, but I wouldn't run there first.
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:07 PM   #190
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I'm assuming these are poly suspension bushings in the motor mounts, right? Do you happen to know if they have an OEM rubber equivalent that the poly was replacing? Meaning, could I buy stock rubber A arm bushings for a Ford or something, and replace these poly ones with stock rubber?

The other thing I need to check closely is if there's a direct contact happening somewhere that I missed, such as on the cross member or tranny tunnel. That could be the whole problem.
Someone else ask me about it, I don't think the manufacturer sells rubber bushings. The manufacturer can't sell you one set of bushings you need to buy them in the hundreds or more. Friend of mine built his own mount using the smaller diameter same manufacturer bushings and his have the same feel as my wagon.
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:12 PM   #191
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You should regear to a 3.27 also want me to order a extra rIng and pinion set :P
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:20 PM   #192
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The od works they just run at high rpm mine sits at 3k at about 70
weird, I think mines around 2800rpm doing 80mph with a 3.73 rear end.

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Someone else ask me about it, I don't think the manufacturer sells rubber bushings. The manufacturer can't sell you one set of bushings you need to buy them in the hundreds or more. Friend of mine built his own mount using the smaller diameter same manufacturer bushings and his have the same feel as my wagon.
That was me..... The vibration got about 15% better after putting 3k miles on the car. Im not driving the car much, no working a/c with 98º temps here.
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:34 PM   #193
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Drove it to the Canepa cars and coffee, and got some love from Kurt Klingensmith on Instagram!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWfcZ3Ulu2h/?hl=en
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:37 PM   #194
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Man, that's shiny.
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:49 PM   #195
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good thing he didnt drive it
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:05 PM   #196
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Man, that's shiny.
All I've done is wash it so far. The paint is mostly in really good shape, but that shine is all editing.

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good thing he didnt drive it
LOL Yeah, it's not really ready for prime time. But I'm happy it made it there and back.

ICT determined that the relocation brackets were not the proper thickness, so they've got a new set on the way over. That will fix the belt alignment issue so that I won't be afraid to rev it up.

I'm being overly harsh about it, it's actually a very solid and low mile car. I just have high expectations for it, so I have a lot of work to do to get it to that point. Fresh rubber suspension bushings and decent front shocks will go a long way.
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:08 PM   #197
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have the wife drive it for real feedback and criticism (especially in her current state)
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:14 PM   #198
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have the wife drive it for real feedback and criticism (especially in her current state)
Oh, she has driven it and she loves it! She's even driven it to work.
I mean, she agrees that it's too loud and the buzzing dashboard are annoying, but she's looking forward to cruising it when it comes along a little more.
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Old 07-13-2017, 09:10 PM   #199
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Let me drive it
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Old 07-13-2017, 09:10 PM   #200
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How loud is the exhaust?
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