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B230F Crankshaft pulley Removal

240on280

240on280

New member
Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Location
SE USA
Well, it was just a matter of time. :grrr:
This afternoon the rubber part of the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper totally failed. The inner alternator belt cut into the lower timing cover to boot. Honestly, I shouldn't complain too much. The pulley failed as I was backing out of my driveway for I wasn't stranded miles from home.
I'll have to replace this over the weekend as this is my daily drive. I'd appreciate advice on how best to get this pulley off. First of all, what is the size of the nut on the crankshaft? I'll probably have to buy a new 1/2" drive socket for this. I do not have IPD's handy dandy pulley holder or access to air tools. The Haynes manual suggests jamming a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth, after removing the starter, to lock the crankshaft. The 240 has a M46 transmission - would putting it in 1st gear with the hand brake on hold it?
Looks like I'll have to buy a pair of new alternator belts - I replaced the power steering belt last weekend - perhaps re-tensioning the A/C compressor belt may have contributed to the demise of the crank pulley. I suppose now would be a good time to replace the timing belt too, luckily I have one in the garage.
Any suggestion would be appreciated:help:
 
240on280 said:
Well, it was just a matter of time. :grrr:
This afternoon the rubber part of the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper totally failed. The inner alternator belt cut into the lower timing cover to boot. Honestly, I shouldn't complain too much. The pulley failed as I was backing out of my driveway for I wasn't stranded miles from home.
I'll have to replace this over the weekend as this is my daily drive. I'd appreciate advice on how best to get this pulley off. First of all, what is the size of the nut on the crankshaft? I'll probably have to buy a new 1/2" drive socket for this. I do not have IPD's handy dandy pulley holder or access to air tools. The Haynes manual suggests jamming a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth, after removing the starter, to lock the crankshaft. The 240 has a M46 transmission - would putting it in 1st gear with the hand brake on hold it?
Looks like I'll have to buy a pair of new alternator belts - I replaced the power steering belt last weekend - perhaps re-tensioning the A/C compressor belt may have contributed to the demise of the crank pulley. I suppose now would be a good time to replace the timing belt too, luckily I have one in the garage.
Any suggestion would be appreciated:help:
Click to expand...

22mm comes to mind for the crankpully, at least on m B21F...

slightly tappig with a hammer while wedging something like a screwdriver or piece of wood behind the pulley to remove it...some autopart places will loan you the tools for that...

screwdriver might work to hold the motor...you can also try your own version of impact driver :) with socket on and using a breaker bar, smack the breaker bar with a heavy sledge hammer in the "off" postion
 
4th. gear, not first, and you'll need to block the rear wheel, in front to remove.
I just did it, and I can't remember if the bolt head is 24 or 26 mm, but I needed a 3' piece of pipe on the 24" breaker bar.
 
B230F uses a 24mm socket. Just did one today.

Once the bolt is out, the pulley should come off without too much prying. Use the above suggestions if it does not.

You DO want to hold the crank steady somehow. The IPD tool is good for that, but you don't have one. So, instead, you have to jam the flywheel teeth. On an automatic, having in in park will work, but 1st gear on a manual won't do it.

Starter does not have to come off to jam the flywheel--but you do have to remove the inspection cover.

Most of the instructions here apply:

http://www.aaronreedbaker.com/underdrive.html

And there's a decent picture of jamming the flywheel teeth.

Aaron
 
pulley

put a breaker bar on the nut and rest it on the floorand tap the motor with the starter to loosen it,i do it all the time.just did a 16v for my friend like that 2 weeks ago,the airgun woulnt fit in there.
dave
 
h2dave said:
put a breaker bar on the nut and rest it on the floorand tap the motor with the starter to loosen it,i do it all the time.just did a 16v for my friend like that 2 weeks ago,the airgun woulnt fit in there.
dave
Click to expand...

This is a method that works. It bears saying that there's a possible danger of causing damage if you're not careful, but it WILL work.

You still need to jam the flywheel when putting the new pulley on. It has to be torqued to specs.

Aaron
 
An impact wrench works just fine.

When putting it back on, put loc tite on the threads.

No, it won't be to specified torque, but it really doesn't seem to matter.
 
Thanks Guys,
I really appreciate the responses. I have a 1/2" drive, 16" long breaker bar. It sounds like I should by either a 22 or a 24 mm socket. If necessary, I'll buy a longer breaker bar. Sorry for the confusion, but a lot of the tech advice about locking the crankshaft relates to automatic 240s. My question was whether you can "lock" the crankshaft with a manual transmission.
I plan to be at Pull-a-part at 8:00 a.m. tomorrow to get a decent replacement pulley - I need to have to tools to get the job done.
Thanks again guys!
 
240on280 said:
Thanks Guys,
I really appreciate the responses. I have a 1/2" drive, 16" long breaker bar. It sounds like I should by either a 22 or a 24 mm socket. If necessary, I'll buy a longer breaker bar. Sorry for the confusion, but a lot of the tech advice about locking the crankshaft relates to automatic 240s. My question was whether you can "lock" the crankshaft with a manual transmission.I plan to be at Pull-a-part at 8:00 a.m. tomorrow to get a decent replacement pulley - I need to have to tools to get the job done.
Thanks again guys!
Click to expand...


did you read peehounds 1st comment???

as long as your clutch is good, it should work, at the wreckers you might be able to jam something in the u-joints of the driveshaft to prevent spinning...or find an automatic car
 
stillspoolin said:
you can take the spark plug out and fill the cylinder with rope, that will stop the engine from turning, Ive done it with no problems.
Click to expand...

yep, rope trick ftw!

94teggy said:
...or the "rope trick" as stolen from brickboard

The "Rope Trick" is just about as easy and quick as the tool. You can do a search for it here, but the basic steps are simple:

To remove crank bolt:
1 - Pull plugs and rotate crank until cylinder #1 is at 0? TDC of its Compression stroke
2 - Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole, cam lobes pointed upward at you.
3 - Rotate crank about 90? after TDC (clockwise when looking at the engine from the front of car)
4 - Stuff about 3 feet of clothesline or rope into # 1 plug hole, leaving 6" outside
5 - Use socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension to loosen pulley bolt

To re-tighten crank bolt:

1 - Pull plugs and rotate crank until cylinder #1 is at 0? TDC of its Compression stroke
2 - Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole, cam lobes pointed upward at you
3- Rotate crank about 90? before TDC (counter clockwise when looking at the engine from the front of car)
4 - Stuff about 3 feet of clothesline or rope into # 1 plug hole, leaving 6" outside
5 - Use socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension to tighten pulley bolt

To my knowledge, this is the only holding tool alternative that allows tightening the bolt to book spec of 44 lb ft, then an additional 60? (B230), or 122 ft lbs. for B21/23.

Basically what happens is while the valves are CLOSED (very important that #1 cylinder is at TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke) the rope jams between the piston and head when you rotate the crank. This keeps the piston from traveling to the top of its stroke thus allowing you to tighten the bolt to spec without the crank moving. I used this when I changed my t-belt and it worked flawlessly
Click to expand...
 
Mueller said:
did you read peehounds 1st comment???

as long as your clutch is good, it should work, at the wreckers you might be able to jam something in the u-joints of the driveshaft to prevent spinning...or find an automatic car
Click to expand...
Yes, I did. I was just trying to get clarification.
 
no loctite on the crank bolt!!

Mr. V said:
An impact wrench works just fine.

When putting it back on, put loc tite on the threads.

No, it won't be to specified torque, but it really doesn't seem to matter.
Click to expand...

NO! never put loctite on the crank bolt threads. unnecessary, and it will set up for a long time, and make it difficult as all (socket, ratchet, pull handle breaking) hell to get back
off the next time.
 
mr.volvo said:
NO! never put loctite on the crank bolt threads. unnecessary, and it will set up for a long time, and make it difficult as all (socket, ratchet, pull handle breaking) hell to get back
off the next time.
Click to expand...

I would agree that one should NOT use the red (high strength) or any permanent form of loc-tite, but I have used blue (medium strength, not permanent) and it zipped off easy with the impact wrench the next time I removed it.

Ah well, we all experience life in our own way...
 
peehound said:
4th. gear, not first, and you'll need to block the rear wheel, in front to remove.
I just did it, and I can't remember if the bolt head is 24 or 26 mm, but I needed a 3' piece of pipe on the 24" breaker bar.
Click to expand...

The B21/B23 use a 22mm bolt, the B200/B230 use a 24mm bolt. 7/8" and 15/16" respectively
 
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