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Old 02-12-2018, 04:22 PM   #76
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Made brackets for the engine mounts. I ordered some cheap rubber mounts (both pass side) from Rockauto, I'll eventually go with diesel or poly.
I'll make some solid ones first to be sure of absolute correct fitment.
I'll also add a torque arm, still gotta figure out where.

Machined recesses to access the bolts, and for water drainage.






Welded in a tube for steering shaft clearance. I bought a power rack a while ago which is a lot sleaker than the manual rack, so it will clear easily.




Pizza and chocolate milk is a man's shop fuel right?




The passenger side is going to be welded (now just spotted for fitment), drivers side is bolted onto the original boltholes (even used the studs I pressed out of the old mounts )




Made plates for the engine, hope to make the engine fit later this or next week.

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Old 02-28-2018, 07:55 PM   #77
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I might better start a 940 daily topic.. had some issues with it not running properly, sweetish smell, lots of steam coming from the exhaust manifold and within a couple of days the matching ripped exhaust gasket noise.
So with the little time I have I pulled the engine (suspect HG but also headwork to be done with 500K kms) and swapped a fresher one (244K).
Only I didn't know the manifold was cracked, so I'm still looking for one, hope to pick one up tomorrow and meanwhile fabricate a new one myself till the temporary one fails. I called every Volvo guy in the country but they all laughed at me trying to find an uncracked one..



Due to the blown HG the crack presumably got bigger faster.



Fresh engine



But on the bright side, we got a new lathe for dirt cheap. It's covered in gunk but after a thorough cleaning all the tracks and beds look almost new

IMG_8851 by Easy Rosay, on Flickr
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:43 PM   #78
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Took the engine out couple of times, did some other stuff here and there on the car and other ones, yada yada.

Last couple of days I built the motor mounts and trans mount, tried to figure out where the shifter goes, some measuring concerning the (still to obtain) radiator and IC, etc.



Still have to put in the power rack, but that will clear the motor mount much better than the manual.









To make the M90 fit the trans member was hardly a challenge, I used the center pair of mounting holes in the frame rails and whipped up some plates, a tube and some holes and welded it in place, want way easier than expected



I thought I wanted to shorten the shifter linkage but after some test fitting and sitting I decided not to. I'm pretty tall so the seat will be quite far back as well (I even lenghten most seat rails usually )
It will take quite some modding though to clear the hand brake better and fit the transmission tunnel.

I used diesel motor mounts by the way, and a 940 front control arm bushing for the transmission support.

Theoretically I could go to the RDW (DMV) to have the 6 cylinder inspected and assigned to the car, so that's one major to do for this summer.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:32 PM   #79
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I have the idea to put the engine back as far as possible, (maybe weld a wheel barrow in the firewall)

Gale Banks lives!
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:43 AM   #80
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Haha
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:12 PM   #81
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Something small: turned some bushings for the shifter linkage. The oem rubber ones are really soft and probably dont make for a solid feel.
Yes, left and right are different, the sleeve is all tapered, stepped and has different diametres left/right







It feels a lot more direct now, we'll see what it does.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:19 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funkee View Post
This is a great looking mockup!
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Old 08-06-2018, 08:19 PM   #83
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Plans changed a little. while sitting (read continuously browsing) at home with a broken toe I found a NOS HX35.
I was a little reluctant to get started with the piping for the tiny twins; I would have to build a 2-1 downpipe, but the exhaust flanges are straight opposed to each other which would make it quite awkward to fabricate something both good fitting and good flowing.
Also the inlet and pressure side piping would be quite a challenge since they're clocked towards the engine and clocking the cold side differently would require a custom bracket for the wastegate actuator.
Long story short, it would be a lot of work to make it all work and fit properly AND making it look good as well. So I went with a single turbo.

IMG_0197

IMG_0199

IMG_0173
(Old iPhone 4 for reference)

It's a twin scroll HX35 with a 7 blade inducer and 16cm2 hot side. I've been reading into a lot of articles last couple of days and it may seem a little on the big side, although there are lots of 16cm units or even bigger ran on 4 and 6 cilinders. Still in doubt a little.

So then comes the header(ache). I don't have the means and time to calculate/design/build a perfect header concerning equal runner length.
I found some examples of nice headers and also stumbled accross the M50 header conundrum. I looked into that and did some research, and found a Chinese M20 header on Aliexpress ($117) which seems to be a perfect match. Also 91mm spacing as the M50 or stock T6 header.
Havent order it yet.

Did a test 'fitting' of the turbo tonight and there isn't much tolerance in how and where to put it.
Ideally the T3 flange would be around runner #2 so the compressor housing is just a little behind the timing wheel.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/L7T8Jp]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/29SL2cp]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/277VDDU]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/L7SdiX]

As you can see the T3 flange is around the second runner, and the distance from the head itself seems (maybe) just enough to fit the HX35.
Of course it would need a lot of work;
-Volvo flange, which also gives it the chance to tilt it a bit to gain needed clearance
-WG outlets
-baffle for twin scroll
-Support for weight of the turbo

(I'm not too afraid of the Chinese stuff by the way, I have a set of stainless eBay headers on my Chevy and they're real nice and hold up for years now.
I did some welding on them and no problems in any way. )


The thing I'm not a 100% certain about is the primaries diameter, I can hardly find specs on the M20 heads or headers but I found a couple of suggestions they're 1.5".
The M20 ports seem a little small on the pictures but by calculating it hardly differs.
Converted to millimeters thats 38.1mm = 114mm2
The Volvo oval port is approx 44x29.5mm=101.9mm2 (ellips formula)

Any thoughts maybe?
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:34 AM   #84
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I finished my post a little quick last night but to continu on the math for a bit I dug into it some more. There are some formulas to calculate the primary tube size and I came about this one a couple of times.
Peak torque RPM x 1 cy displacement / 88,200=PPA (Primary Pipe Area)
In case of say peak torque a 4K that would be 4000 RPM X 28.33 cui / 88200 = 1,28in2 = 8,25cm2
In case of 5000 rpm it would be 1,6in2 = 10.3cm2

It seems the M20 header would be a safe choice regarding the pipe diameter, if it would be 1.5" ID.
The Volvo exhaust port isn't exactly ellipse shaped so it would be some more surface than I calculated.
I contacted the seller if he could provide some details, to be continued.
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Old 08-07-2018, 10:26 AM   #85
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Just stumbled across this thread. Looks good!

Always good to see whiteblock swaps.
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Old 08-07-2018, 12:42 PM   #86
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Thanks
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:57 PM   #87
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F-it, I ordered the M20 header so lets see how it works out.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:30 PM   #88
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So, the turbo manifold got delivered. Unfortunately not at my home address but somewhere on the other side of the planet.
Hope someone in West Palm Beach is happy with it.. took over a month to get a refund but ok, in the end I received it.
Can't really get over how it was shipped from China to Japan, to Anchorage, back to Japan, and to Florida finally..

Delivered
2018-08-17 17:38:56 [US,WEST PALM BEACH,33412]
Out For Delivery Today
2018-08-17 08:41:16 [US,Riviera Beach]
Loaded on Delivery Vehicle
2018-08-17 05:38:30 [US,Riviera Beach]
Destination Scan
2018-08-17 05:27:57 [US,Riviera Beach]
Arrival Scan
2018-08-17 04:05:00 [US,Riviera Beach]
Departure Scan
2018-08-17 02:34:00 [US,Hialeah]
Arrival Scan
2018-08-16 20:42:00 [US,Hialeah]
Departure Scan
2018-08-16 19:34:00 [US,Miami]
Arrival Scan
2018-08-16 18:59:00 [US,Miami]
Departure Scan
2018-08-16 16:31:00 [US,Louisville]
Import Scan
2018-08-16 11:40:02 [US,Louisville]
Arrival Scan
2018-08-16 00:40:00 [US,Louisville]
Departure Scan
2018-08-15 21:57:00 [JP,Narita]
Departure Scan
2018-08-15 14:47:00 [US,Anchorage]
Arrival Scan
2018-08-15 11:29:00 [US,Anchorage]
Arrival Scan
2018-08-14 20:50:00 [JP,Narita]
Departure Scan
2018-08-14 17:04:00 [CN,Shanghai]
Export Scan
2018-08-14 01:28:56 [CN,Shanghai]
Arrival Scan
2018-08-13 21:45:00 [CN,Shanghai]
Departure Scan
2018-08-13 21:30:00 [CN,Shanghai]
Origin Scan
2018-08-13 18:18:48 [CN,Shanghai]
Pickup Scan
2018-08-13 15:14:52 [CN,Shanghai]
Order Processed: Ready for UPS
2018-08-13 11:04:59 [CN]


Anyway the project is gonna be on the back burner for a little bit. I will continu to work on it but it's in my shop ± 20 mins from home.
Couple of weeks ago me and some buddies did a 600 km round trip in my Impala and about 50 km before home my oil pressure started acting up as well as a rod knocking sound.
At idle there already was a slight knock in there, but I always pretended it wasn't there. Oil press always was strong, but I'm afraid I overfilled the engine after an oil change (the night before the trip) and lost oil pressure on the test drive b/c of the oil foaming up -> damaged the bearing(s) I'm think.
I thought the pressure sender wasn't working properly at first, so in disbelieve I floored it a couple of times seeing the oil pressure drop.
At home I let off some oil and it seemd OK. Only to found out that 550 km later something worse developed..

Long story short, the Impala needs time, TLC, bearings and money (because head job, other cam etc) thrown at it and I will be doing that in my home garage, so not around the 242.
I can come up with a lot more excuses but the 242 will be touched whenever there's time.

tl;dr here's a pic of the engine getting picked out of the car. Minor Volvo content in the back.

IMG_0650
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