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Old 12-14-2017, 12:00 PM   #51
Broke4speed
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Not that I'm the first but it seems everybody is putting in tee sixes in at the moment :D
I'm 6-ing, but NA. S80s litter the yards up here, but NA B6304s...gotta strike when the iron is hot. NA first, then maybe T6 later.
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:36 PM   #52
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Hey is there a Netherlands tbricks type meet ever? I'm going to be there in April next year and would like to see some of these cars (though, i guess most projects won't be on the road in the coming years lol). I'll be in neiw loosdrecht? I think thats the name
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Old 12-15-2017, 03:36 PM   #53
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Hey is there a Netherlands tbricks type meet ever? I'm going to be there in April next year and would like to see some of these cars (though, i guess most projects won't be on the road in the coming years lol). I'll be in neiw loosdrecht? I think thats the name
I'm 1,5 hrs away from there but feel free to drop a msg when you're around for a visit
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:17 AM   #54
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Hey is there a Netherlands tbricks type meet ever? I'm going to be there in April next year and would like to see some of these cars (though, i guess most projects won't be on the road in the coming years lol). I'll be in neiw loosdrecht? I think thats the name
8 april there is the "elandrun" in holland.

http://www.volvo-elandrun.nl/

this year was fun, i definitely go next year again!
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Old 12-17-2017, 11:48 AM   #55
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8 april there is the "elandrun" in holland.

http://www.volvo-elandrun.nl/

this year was fun, i definitely go next year again!
Crap I'm just going to miss it. We arrive on the 19th of April. Wedding in Cologne Germany the 21st. Then fly back may 2nd with a. Couple days in Iceland.

I randomly saw a Facebook post about an old Volvo museum/collection in nieu loosdrecht. So I will atleast tgo and see that!
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:58 PM   #56
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I had the day off today so I decided to make some meters, as they say in Dutch.
Loaded it up the trailer, no problems. Pressure washed it. Off the trailer was different ballgame. Couldn't get it to start. I even got her some fresh gas..
So I put it in reverse and drove it off on the starter. Needless to say a couple of minutes later it started fine



I wanted to set a new record for myself and pull the engine within one hour.
Took me 2. Spent 1,5 hour on the freezing concrete (lift was occupied) removing the trans support, speedo cable, clutch, exhaust and the seized driveshaft bolts..
After that it was 15 minutes of cutting every wire and hose and out she goes.





I put some 17" spares in the front and removes brake pads for easy moving.
While I was at it I removed everything that was removable, took out all wiring in the engine bay except wiper motor, removed the brake booster, old engine mounts etc.
As I measured it seems the T6 can be moved 4"/10cm back easily without the oil cooler/filter hitting the sway bar of steering rack.

Oh, I discovered a LOT of rust. I knew it was rusty, but there's a lot of it.
Luckily the bottom is covered in grease, so no completely rotted pans. Some rotted supports though, and 1 side of the floor, but nothing a welder can't fix.
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Old 12-20-2017, 07:56 AM   #57
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That looks interesting!!

Good luck dude!

A few years ago i went back from the UK to Lithuania with my turbobrick and visited my friend in Rumst. Would have been a cool idea to meet up lol, but nevermind. I will go back at some time again soon and hopefully bring the 242 with me haha

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Old 12-20-2017, 03:31 PM   #58
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Crap I'm just going to miss it. We arrive on the 19th of April. Wedding in Cologne Germany the 21st. Then fly back may 2nd with a. Couple days in Iceland.

I randomly saw a Facebook post about an old Volvo museum/collection in nieu loosdrecht. So I will atleast tgo and see that!
Volvo's arecool, but if you are in NL dont miss Kingsday... national party @ 27th of april.
Doesn't really matter which big city u visit, but Amsterdam is the most crowded.
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:03 PM   #59
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Found some time to do a first test fit and did some measuring.





From the steering rack to the bulge (yeah..) on the oil pan there's about 11~12 cm of clearance.
I trimmed the 2 ridges where the battery cables normally go, so pushing the engine about 10 cm backwards would be possible.
The PRV or a custom (maybe E36) sway bar should clear the oil cooler.





The firewall would require some serious modification to make it all fit, new trans tunnel or widening it would be mandatory as well.

Last edited by Funkee; 12-30-2017 at 07:43 PM..
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Old 01-05-2018, 03:56 PM   #60
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That's going to be a very cool 242! Keep up the good work.
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Old 01-06-2018, 04:49 PM   #61
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Thanks man!

Took the lower part of the dash out to see whats going on around the firewall and trans tunnel. Not much.
Took the heater core out as well. I never gotten why one would need 243 different options of where air comes from.
I just need hot or nothing, primarily for defog.

So I'll be keeping my eyes open for one of these:

Or maybe some cute japanese of Smart cars at the JY might have something like it. Whatever, worries for later.









Found some rust as well, but it was less than I expected. Also worries for later

I had some luck finding parts, I bought a set of good front fenders and a nice flathood for €30
Also found a powersteering rack. As I said, it's Volvo parts everywhere here in a range of 10 miles
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Old 01-07-2018, 12:43 PM   #62
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I have one of those heaters for my 242. I haven't tried fitting it yet. It was really cheap from summit racing. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get it cheaper on Alibaba?

Jordan
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Old 01-07-2018, 02:08 PM   #63
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Yeah the one I posted is from Summit as well, they're around $150. But maybe I'll build a box around the original core and use a modern fan, I don't really trust that cheap Chinese stuff under my dash.
I bought a H4 wiring harness once with really nice and thick wiring, until I found out it was really just thick isolation around a way too thin copper wire..
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Old 01-23-2018, 04:25 PM   #64
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Sometimes my 940 has a little surprise for me before it lets me leave..

Went out to the JY to find a small brake booster to accomodate the intake manifold. Most small cars have huge boosters I found out though, but I found a real nice one in a early 2000's or so Suzuki Swift. Took me litterally 10 minutes to take it out while I was expecting the opposite, the 4 bolts are very accesible and spun right off with a finger. Cool thing that I didn't know yet, it's almost plug and play as well.





Weird thing about those small Japanese cars is they all smell the same.





The rod/clevis length are exactly the same, only the inner diameter of the clevis is smaller, 9 vs 12.2mm. Not a lot of work to make it fit.
I drilled some holes and it fits like like a glove. Looks quite good as well, and it has a separate left and right (and combined rear) output. Hope it displaces enough fluid for some big Brembos, but the bore seems a lot bigger than the oem 240 one. Need to figure out the rears, the Swift has rear drums.







I also test fitted the M90, man they are big Not a lot of room to spare, at least around the bolt holes I need some extra. I think I'll end up making a whole new trans tunnel anyway.
I think it's gonna be a hydraulic throwout as well, I won't have room for my size 12 right foot if I leave the fork assembly.

Fitted the engine again now with intake and took the sway bar out, did some markings.





Time to break out the angle grinder













Right how I pictured it Left some pieces for reference.
As you can see the brake booster now easily clears the intake. The oil filler cap doesn't clear though, and would be very hard to reach.
So I took it out and swapped it with the center freeze plug.
It was stuck as hell by the way, I made a contraption to pull it out with the block hoist. It took the weight of the engine easily, but some tapping around separated them eventually.





So that's it for today. Next up is building motor mounts, mating the M90 and do some test fitting and cutting again.
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Old 01-24-2018, 01:04 PM   #65
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Nice work! Like the brakebooster mod
Why did you decide to cut out the firewall when there is more than enough room for the eninge original?
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Old 01-24-2018, 07:15 PM   #66
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Wait, did the man who just widened and chopped up his complete 242 just ask me this?

But to answer the question, the 6 cylinder is quite long, cam position sensor adds another 30mm compared to non-CVVT, so it would add more weight to the front than the 4 cylinder or maybe a 5. Better weight distribution, and the fact that I like the building process, I'm not in it to throw some parts at it and call it a day.

Last edited by Funkee; 01-25-2018 at 05:21 PM..
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Old 01-25-2018, 05:18 AM   #67
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Wait, did the man who just widened and chopped up his complete 242 just ask me this?

But to answer the question, the 6 cylinder is quit long, cam position sensor adds another 30mm compared to non-CVVT, so it would add more weight to the front than the 4 cylinder or maybe a 5. Better weight distribution, and the fact that I like the building process, I'm not in it to throw some parts at it and call it a day.
Hahaha

Thanks for the answer! Understand Your reasonsIn norway we cant do anything to the firewall if we want to keep Our lisence plate unfortually.
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Old 01-25-2018, 05:39 PM   #68
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Yeah I understood from reading your topic. Over here a lot is allowed, there are some clear regulations but a lot is possible as long as it's executed properly. I made some calls with the RDW (government regulator) to be sure I'm not putting in all the work for nothing.
The engine has to be mounted properly in the first place, if you want the engine swap 'on your plate' it only needs to be seen by the RDW and they will visually inspect and approve it if it's done properly.
If I get the motor mounted I will have it inspected asap (before regulations might change), no need for the car to be running, having a firewall or whatever, they'll only check the engine and how it's mounted.
If I want to get it on the road again (now it's suspended) it needs APK (annual check) where they'll check everything from tire profile till brake balance, structural integrity etc.
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Old 01-26-2018, 11:44 PM   #69
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watching this thread, some great ideas here. keep up the good work.
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Old 01-27-2018, 06:38 AM   #70
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Nice project! Awesome to see the 242s in the Netherlands are in hands of enthusiasts.
I'd stick to the stock turbo manifold setup or put 2 slightly bigger turbos on it to preserve quick spooling.

Btw there are mounts available from KL Racing (?) that make a whiteblock a drop in engine

Need to continue on my 242, also wanted to do a b6xxx engine + turbo and m90 but changed my mind (again....)
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Old 01-27-2018, 05:07 PM   #71
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Thanks guys. I will keep the stock turbos at first. If I were to change them it would be for a custom HX50 I think, but honestly I think the two little guys are best for my application. Maybe if I take it out for drag racing more often it would make more sense to put bigger turbo(s).

I saw the KL mounts but they would still require some modification and they're quite expensive.
I also want to put them as far out as possible for more stability. I'll fab something up
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Old 01-27-2018, 05:14 PM   #72
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I thought drum brake masters would keep some residual pressure in the line, or something?
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Old 01-27-2018, 05:26 PM   #73
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this will be freaking sweet once done figured out what clutch you are goung to run on it?
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:18 PM   #74
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I thought drum brake masters would keep some residual pressure in the line, or something?
Is it? Never heard of that. A proportioning valve would do the trick I think.



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this will be freaking sweet once done figured out what clutch you are goung to run on it?
Probably R clutch but I'm far from there yet
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:16 PM   #75
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Someone on FB asked about the T6 starter being compatible with the 850 flywheel, so I checked to help him out, and not in the last place to help myself

I didn't realize the starter ring would differ in size, but they do. 850 SMF vs T6 auto flex plate.







The measurement is quite rough, didn't exactly align them.

I measured (ballparked) both the 960 and T6 starter and it seems the 960 starter makes up for the difference perfectly.
Otherwise I have some 850 starters as well somewhere, won't be a problem.





The 960 starter is about 3mm more outward.
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