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Old 03-04-2020, 07:06 PM   #1
tom2turbo
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Default K-Jet Issues - 83 245 Turbo Rescue

Bianca Runs. Recently acquired project from a friend.

Well that headline overstates the case. Sort of idles, not more than 400 RPM. 83 245 Turbo sat for 3+X years in an Oregon vineyard. Broken Timing Belt was the cause of abandonment. New belt and no engine knocks.

I am looking for successful ideas on this:
* Drain and replace the old fuel, about 1/2 tank indicated
* Flush the fuel delivery system complete as the K-Jet is known susceptible to varnish and dirt. I have mixed results flushing other systems, ex: 924 with rusty fuel tank sits in my yard
* If successful, then clean the fuel distributor and test the injectors

My 91 745 Turbo project is on hold for this rescue.

Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-04-2020, 07:20 PM   #2
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I'd start by looking in the tank, and make decisions based on what I saw there.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 03-04-2020, 08:22 PM   #3
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Fair assumption that a new fuel tank would be a good investment without inspection. They are available for a couple hundred and far less trouble than trying to restore the rusty one.
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Fair assumption that a new fuel tank would be a good investment without inspection. They are available for a couple hundred and far less trouble than trying to restore the rusty one.
On the other hand 3 years isn't that long and the chinesium tanks are noisy tinny and don't last.
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Old 03-04-2020, 09:12 PM   #5
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I'd slap a new fuel filter in there before firing it up again.
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Old 03-04-2020, 09:39 PM   #6
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I wouldn't fire it up again until you pumped a couple gallons of new gas into a white mud bucket. You will probably be surprised at what comes out.

Last two gallons of gas out of an old tank:

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Old 03-05-2020, 10:58 AM   #7
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I'd slap a new fuel filter in there before firing it up again.
Fine tank rust will blow right through the best filter but the fuel distributor and CPR will catch it.
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Old 03-05-2020, 11:20 AM   #8
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I agree with RWC, look in the tank before you do anything else. If you see anything questionable, drop it and clean it out. Might as well eliminate that variable from the equation if you're serious about reviving the car.
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Old 03-07-2020, 12:21 PM   #9
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You can remove the feed hose to the main pressure pump and put it in a bucket. Then remove fuses 5 and 7. Now jumper from the left side of fuse 7 to the right side of fuse 5. That will run only the intank pump and pump the nasty gas into the bucket.
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Old 03-07-2020, 07:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kampman View Post
I agree with RWC, look in the tank before you do anything else.
Agree, a look see was warranted.

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You can remove the feed hose to the main pressure pump and put it in a bucket. Then remove fuses 5 and 7. Now jumper from the left side of fuse 7 to the right side of fuse 5. That will run only the intank pump and pump the nasty gas into the bucket.
Agree, started with the pump out process you described for 5 blue gallons. The final gallon was sort of nasty but not rusty.

Good News, there is no visible in tank rust or sludge/debris. The filter sock appears deteriorated and the pre-pump is super loud. I will replace these when re-installing the package.

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I'd slap a new fuel filter in there before firing it up again.
Of course the main fuel filter is replaced.

It will be interesting to know if the blue gas is the root cause of no power. If not, then of course more diagnosis next weekend.
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Old 03-07-2020, 08:32 PM   #11
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Good news I didn't think an OG tank would go bad in that amount of time.

Next would remove the injectors to change the O rings [since they only last ~2 years in the best of conditions] and flow them into cut down water bottles taped to the top of the radiator to make sure there isn't a 'dry' hole.
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Old 03-07-2020, 09:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Good news I didn't think an OG tank would go bad in that amount of time.
I had one go bad in less than 2 years(my fault of course for not carrying out the correct procedure for long term storage).
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Old 03-20-2020, 11:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Good news I didn't think an OG tank would go bad in that amount of time.

Next would remove the injectors to change the O rings [since they only last ~2 years in the best of conditions] and flow them into cut down water bottles taped to the top of the radiator to make sure there isn't a 'dry' hole.
Today's High volume flow test results are acceptable, flow amounts near equal in all 4 injectors.

Low volume spray patterns are not acceptable. Patterns vary from drizzle to squirt to drips.

I have lots of experience flushing these with a hand pump high pressure device back in the day, 40+ years ago. But I do not have said device handy.

Does anyone in Portland area have an injector cleaning pump? I know Kent Bergsma up in Bellingham has these available to the Mercedes folks. I do not want to invest in this tool as my plans for Bianca tend toward an EFI manifold and the Megasquirt system I bought a while ago.

I do have NA setting injectors to fit a 264 Volvo or 924 Porsche. I could install these to get Bianca running even though the ultimate flow is inadequate for boosted operation.

Low power condition persists.I need to recheck timing of shafts and ultimately ignition.

Ideas?
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Old 03-21-2020, 04:33 PM   #14
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IIRC, I was able to spray carb cleaner through the K-Jet injectors on my B21FT. It was a fresh can (higher pressure) and I was able to stick the red extension tube down into the injector opening. Pinched it off with my fingers and made a mess (do this outside, with goggles), but there was enough pressure to open the injector and spray through. YMMV.

[To remove the injectors from the metal pipes, I ended up cranking them down in my drillpress chuck to hold them. Just a wrench wouldn't hold enough.]
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Old 03-21-2020, 05:55 PM   #15
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I used to use the spray nozzle for your compressor. I would take a length of hose about a foot or foot and a half long. Attach to the injector with a hose clamp. Then fill the hose with carb cleaner and slide it onto the nozzle. I used about 60psi and blow that through the injector a couple of times. It's nasty and don't let that stuff hit anything. But it worked well. You have to hold the hose onto the nozzle pretty good.
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Old 03-21-2020, 07:36 PM   #16
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K21825 - IPD - K-Jet Injector Revival Kit 240 76-85

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Old 03-24-2020, 12:11 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=Redwood Chair;6059853]K21825 - IPD - K-Jet Injector Revival Kit 240 76-85

Yep
IPD ... 0437502015 forced induction
I have 0437502013 NA

Oh well it is only money right?

I will try dl242gt idea first step.

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I used to use the spray nozzle for your compressor. ......
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Old 03-31-2020, 04:16 PM   #18
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To the OP, while going through the fuel system, don't forget the Warm-up Regulator (sometimes called a WUR). My Kjet had everything fresh but was still not quite right until I got a fresh WUR. Have fun.
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Old 03-31-2020, 07:22 PM   #19
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Ah yes, the WUR.

You might want to bookmark this link about how to clean and repair a WUR:

http://www.ferrari400parts.com/Warmu...atorrepair.php
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Old 05-26-2020, 04:56 PM   #20
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Yeo thanks, that old Ferrari page is great because I need to clean up the WUR. I have two spares to knock about ...
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