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thelostartof LH 2.4 Chip Feedback Thread

Final results on the stock AMM and BT's ran a 13.97 @ 102 running 17psi and VERY much out of fuel up top.

Swapped in the 012/65# injector combo the end of last week and it's still learning, though the rich bog has already started to subside after about 90 miles.
 
So I'm assuming that these chips adapt to larger injectors? I have browntops and a 15G, and right now my car seems to have decent AFRs. If I put in these chips, will it run overly-rich because the fuel chip tells it to get more fuel? Or will it just optimize my current setup?

Also...with my setup (15G @ 15psi, 2.5" exhaust, browntop injectors) are these chips necessary? How much will they really help? I'm not looking for much more power, as I'd like the trans to last, but better driveability/mpg/smoothness is more than welcome!
 
People have noticed gains on mildly stock cars like yours. hard for just me to tell you, I would think reading the feedback and setup of others of here would be enough to help you decide if you wanted it or not.

It would help optimize the setup as the ECU is what learns what you have and adjusts it from there
 
You'll like the difference. I had the same setup you're running when I pulled my 13.9 pass. Granted my motor is built, but there's a pretty noticeable difference between stock and chipped. I ran the same engine setup on the stock ECU when I was breaking things in, then swapped over to the chipped stuff once I had things settled. Throttle response is better, power is better, and available power when you up the boost is better. These chips held things in check until I literally ran out of injector at 17psi.
 
My Update:

AC condenser fan ALA Mr. Bill

RSI stage 1 cam & new T-Belt. ((RSI adjustable cam sprocket recommended?)

"New" Turbo T3 I bought about 10 years ago, but only used for a summer. .48 A/R "Mild upgraded compressor side" 3" with ATP UIWG 3" turbo back SS exhaust, Magnaflow 3" cat & straight through muffler.

Ported 90+

Mikes Chips (Injection & ignition)

4 flow matched 52#/576cc model INJL55 injectors from Racetronix

External CBV (Stock)

3" intake (from AMM to turbo inlet)

3" 012 AMM

Airaid air filter 720-431 Tucked up behind the bumper
under the passenger side headlamp.

NPR Intercooler

Volvo 2 speed electric fan mounted in the stock mechanical fan shroud with 2-speed relay. Low speed side in the radiator using the
"over heat" port. High speed control will be in the upper radiator hose.

G-Valve (RIP Gus)

Not quite 100 miles since I got this all done. So far, it's been quite a trip. At first, the performance was quite ****ty. Seriously. Idled like crap, way too rich, yadda yadda yadda.

Fast forward 4 minutes. Idle smoothed out, rich went away, became more drivable.

I don't know the mileage. But with 55# injectors I don't think it'll be thrifty. It's been running great, but I don't think the learning curve is resolved yet (Mike can comment better).

One thing though, I've noticed that the idle speed doesn't adjust to load very well (putting into drive, turning on A/C. Is that a function of the ECU or is it somehow independent like the old 240's were? I have the idle set to ~900 rpm, but when the A/C comes on, it'll drop down to about 400-450 RPM. Any suggestions what it may be?

Also, I'm still running a stock boost gauge. Does anyone know or has tried fitting a decent "real" gauge in the stock location?

Over all, I'll say this. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
 
Last edited:
AC condenser fan ALA Mr. Bill

RSI stage 1 cam & new T-Belt. ((RSI adjustable cam sprocket recommended?)

"New" Turbo T3 I bought about 10 years ago, but only used for a summer. .48 A/R "Mild upgraded compressor side" 3" with ATP UIWG

Ported 90+

Mikes Chips (Injection & ignition)

4 flow matched 52#/576cc model INJL55 injectors from Racetronix

External CBV (Stock)

3" intake (from AMM to turbo inlet)

3" 012 AMM

Airaid air filter 720-431 Tucked up behind the bumper
under the passenger side headlamp.

NPR Intercooler

Volvo 2 speed electric fan mounted in the stock mechanical fan shroud with 2-speed relay. Low speed side in the radiator using the
"over heat" port. High speed control will be in the upper radiator hose.

G-Valve (RIP Gus)

Not quite 100 miles since I got this all done. So far, it's been quite a trip. At first, the performance was quite ****ty. Seriously. Idled like crap, way too rich, yadda yadda yadda.

Fast forward 4 minutes. Idle smoothed out, rich went away, became more drivable.

I don't know the mileage. But with 55# injectors I don't think it'll be thrifty. It's been running great, but I don't think the learning curve is resolved yet (Mike can comment better).

One thing though, I've noticed that the idle speed doesn't adjust to load very well (putting into drive, turning on A/C. Is that a function of the ECU or is it somehow independent like the old 240's were? I have the idle set to ~900 rpm, but when the A/C comes on, it'll drop down to about 400-450 RPM. Any suggestions what it may be?

Over all, I'll say this. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

hey im running the same cam and having similar issues with idle...it likes to lope around 500'ish at idle..not sure, aside from resetting the TB in terms of increasing idle
 
I might be on crack, but I recall reading somewhere that the ECU compensates when you load it up (turn A/C on, e-fan on, etc). that's how it seems to be on my car.. the idle will drop from 700rpm to about 450/500 momentarily when the fan clicks on, then back up to 700.
 
I might be on crack, but I recall reading somewhere that the ECU compensates when you load it up (turn A/C on, e-fan on, etc). that's how it seems to be on my car.. the idle will drop from 700rpm to about 450/500 momentarily when the fan clicks on, then back up to 700.

That's the way it was pre-chip. But not so lately. Something needed to re-learn?
 
I just replaced mine 1k miles ago with a IAC out of a low mileage 940. Also reset my TPS when I installed the IAC...before i did all my swapping the setup was perfect. ill check clearance this weekend...see if it needs shims...shouldnt, as the MS that had the head shimmed it.
 
Why? I have had 1 die in my cars life around 170k.

I would wait until you get around 300 miles on your car to have the chips smooth out.


I would also check for vac leaks and make sure the TPS is setup right. ALso have you checked out the valve clearance for that cam

I doubt mine is bad as the idle plummets if it's not connected.

Cam clearance was all within spec. Got the shim kit from IPD and car no longer sounds like a diesel. I'll recheck the TPS. That a throttle position switch or sensor on this car? (LH 2.4) I'm thinking switch.

What's a good way to check for vac leaks? Back in the day we had a smoker thing that worked great. I can't listen for leaks so, what's the next best idea?
 
We take some 2" PVC end caps and put a tire valve in the end, clamp it into an intercooler pipe and pressurize the system to 20psi. take a spray bottle with soapy water and spray around anyplace it could leak and it should bubble up
 
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