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1pc vs 2pc driveshaft

VB242

I.M. Weasel
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Location
Driving the No Malarkey Bus
Imminent T5 swap, should I modify the end of a now-defunct M47 driveshaft for an easy 2pc or should I have a 1 pc made? Will it be ok to have the slip yoke on the transmission end only held in position by the center carrier bearing?
 
Should be an interesting thread. I just grabbed a 2-piece to modify in the 140, since I'm tired of dicking around with the 1-piece and the vibration. Haven't seen much on the center bearing issue though, which is also my concern.
 
I went with a custom 1pc on my T5 swap and had no issues.

Until I installed a pair of adjustable upper torque arms with poly bushings. Then vibration of mild and horrible (depending on gear/engine rpm combinations) vibrations. I spent a while trying different diff angles, no change. Raised and lowered the trans too, no change. Finally took those arms off and put stockers back on, no vibration. I'm guessing the rubber is just masking something (?), but in either case, that's not really a great endorsement for 1pc driveshafts.

I'm not really sure I can blame that on the 1pc though.
 
I've played with angles a ton, all but 1 I have been able to get dialed, and that one I can't measure to confirm it's even off, though I don't suspect it is by much, if at all. Hell, even Nathan went back 2-piece to deal with vibration.

Pending the 2-piece helping, I'll have a drop-in ready custom 1-piece alum. up for sale.
 
I have a custom 1 piece driveshaft in my v8 240. I also had vibration problems. I made my own adjustable upper torque rods that take stock Volvo bushings. After messing with pinion angles a bunch of times, I wondered if the torque of my stroker (435 ftlbs ) was crushing the soft Volvo bushings. then I installed IPD urethane bushings and that stopped the vibration. I think if you are running a 1 piece shaft you need to update to urethane to keep things lined up. worked for me.
 
Currently rocking poly in mine, also running the stock arms, which have the better hourglass style bushings.

Towery...stock u-joint size on that think it looks like? Any part number for the yoke you ran, or application? Or is that one running a different flange on the driveshaft end, using a 1310?
No issues with not even filling the center support with urethane or anything?

I have asked the local driveline shop about doing a shaft that has a slip shaft in the trans as well as the stock Volvo 2-piece and they very adamant about not doing it since it's not a thrust bearing setup.
 
I ran a 1 piece 3" driveshaft in the 79 244. The car was not much lower than stock and the driveshaft hit the top of the tunnel over every bump if the back was loaded down. Major annoyance. No way the car could've gone much lower without breaking something.

I'm about to do a 2 piece driveshaft on a T5 swap into my 90 245. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
 
Thank you everyone, I guess if that slip yoke finds it's way out of the transmission with a 2 pc. I have more serious problems to deal with anyway.
The front half of the driveshaft really isn't moving forward or backward. The trans location relative to the chassis is fixed (except for deflection of engine/trans mounts) and the center support is fixed on the chassis, so it's not going anywhere.

We run a driveshaft off of an '86 Capri on our 24hr lemons 240 wagon. Slightly lowered in the rear, plus starts races w/24gal fuel on board so it's compressing the suspension that much more. Haven't had any rubs, but don't really have any hard compression type bumps when going straight that would cause it to rub. Certainly nothing like Eau Rouge on the tracks we race. :lol:
 
I ran a 1 piece 3" driveshaft in the 79 244. The car was not much lower than stock and the driveshaft hit the top of the tunnel over every bump if the back was loaded down. Major annoyance. No way the car could've gone much lower without breaking something.

I had the same thing hitting the tunnel on bumps with a 1-piece, car lowered a little with iPd springs. But my rear bushings were pretty worn. Josh at Yoshifab suggested new bushings would fix it. After new bushings, suddenly the 1-piece never hit the tunnel again, even when bottoming out.

Now running a 2-piece since I had one made because I thought I needed it. No noise or vibration differences from either in my experience.
Dave B
 
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