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Does this look normal?

D

DrHutch

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Location
Quantico, VA
Hey guys,

I'm a new owner of a 87 240DL. It was suppose to be just a daily driver since my Tundra drinks more gas then I would like to give it haha. Right now I'm having problems and my mechanic skills are being stretched. About three weeks ago it died on me on my way to work. No warning, no clunking, just straight died. So after some research I felt like the relay for the fuel pump was the cause. That wasn't it. I didn't hear the fuel pump click on when turn to accessories, so I figured that was the cause. I ordered a fuel pump and prepump. Just on a whem, I also ordered a distributor cap and rotor. When I got the parts I swapped the cap and rotor first because it was getting dark and that would be a fast process. It started right up! I turned in tthr had lights and it died. I did great three times and tree last time it didn't start again. Today I figured why not clean the grounds. The battery cable for the positive and ground seem really busted. But I did a quick clean it started right up and stayed on for 10 minutes. I attempted a trip around the block. It made it half way and right when it shifted to 2nd gear it died. Didn't start again and I pushed it home.


So my questions are:
Could this be the alternator?

Or do you think it's my battery cables? Also if I were to rebuild my cables, do these look normal?
b7u2sMA

Is all that extra wiring on the positive side supposed to be there?

Thanks for any help guys.
 
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My 91 240 definitely doesn't have that wire with the fuse on it connected to the positive terminal. It also looks like there are a lot of sketchy electrical repairs in just the picture you provided as well

edit: Your model year falls into the biodegradable wiring harness years
 
OP it is dying. It needs fuel, spark and compression to run. It intermittently runs... So we'll assume that compression is there.
When it dies... Pull a plug wire... Get a screwdriver into the wire and hold it 1/4" from a ground as an assistant cranks it. Or use a starter button from the battery to the starter lead on the firewall.

Search is your friend. We have done this a hundred times.
 
That fuse by the battery supplies power to the fuel pump relay. Highly likely it is the problem. Bad connection from being exposed to the elements. 1990 was the last year to have that fuse.
 
check all the pins going to the fuel injector relay connector. Sometimes people hold the harness when they pull out the relay and that can unseat a wire from the connector. Just make sure all the wires are snugged in tight, push the wire into the connector. That caused an intermittent problem for me that took a year to figure out.
 
JohnLane said:
OP it is dying. It needs fuel, spark and compression to run. It intermittently runs... So we'll assume that compression is there.
When it dies... Pull a plug wire... Get a screwdriver into the wire and hold it....

...Search is your friend. We have done this a hundred times.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't recommend to noobs, or anybody, to go putting screwdrivers into plug wires and have a buddy crank. It's a good way to get shocked and worse case it could kill somebody, I think....ha maybe with a pacemaker, a weak heart, or ****faced. Instead, use a spark tester from an auto store for $5. Or rest the king wire to a strut mount stud and stand the **** back.


Here is a pic showing what I mean. The clip probably won't be there, but rest the king lead right here and you can even see it from the driver seat all by yourself. :wink

It's the very first place to start when you have a NO START.




DrHutch said:
The battery cable for the positive and ground seem really busted.
Click to expand...


Your pic didn't show up for me, but first make sure all wires are clean and good. Especially that fuse and holder. They corrode out and your EFI will be dead.

Follow that wire and you will see that it ends up at the LH/Fuel Pump Relay. If the fuse is bad, you may see less than 12v here on a DVOM.

Anyways, not enough info to e diag. Threads where somebody posts up that their car was running great until: "Wen't into grocery store." "Got off work." Etc means nothing.


Figure out if you have spark using above method, or a timing light is safest. Then a noid light to check injector pulse. And fuel pressure test, but is tricky on these cars to get the fittings.


Click link in my sig for no start diag.
 
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The insulation is falling off some of your wires. Folks can zoom in on your picture if viewed on imgur - http://imgur.com/b7u2sMA

The whole engine compartment harness should be thoroughly inspected and probably replaced. The red/white wire from the coil going forward looks to be missing ~1" of insulation. This wire charges the coil and generates spark (it probably goes to dashboard tach too). If it shorts out, you'll lose spark.

If you can get it started, try gently wiggling every wire you can get to in the engine compartment and see if it dies. Then inspect the suspect wire to see if it's shorting out. Check at least: the coil wires, the distributor wires, the main power fuse, the main relay.
 
I once had similar problem and it was those extra wires on the posiitive battery terminal. The connection was loose. I tightened the nut there on the terminal and problem solved. Those wires supply power to the rest of the car, including fuel pump (as stated sbove). Very embarrassing, including needing a tow home with the kid in the car, all because loose wire from when I had worked on car.

and, it sounds like a bad engine compartment wiring harness. The culprit could be hidden inside the black sleeve where you cant see. Odds are there are multiple spots, best to replace the harness.
 
DrHutch said:
Thanks guys. I'll start some more trouble shooting this afternoon.
Click to expand...

Looking at your excellent photo, I'd agree the mess needs to be cleaned up. It is clear the car has had some work done under the hood by a fast moving technician.

I'd suggest being methodical. The method I'd follow is strongly rooted in spark, then fuel, as this fuel system in your car won't begin to function until spark works. There's no buzz of the fuel pumps when you turn the key on, like other cars.

Yes, the harness is a major consideration, but the harness problems are mostly fuel harness problems, except for the one big one that will prevent your spark -- the small wiring inside the distributor for the Hall switch. If this is messed up, causing no spark, the condition of the fuel harness is a challenge for tomorrow.

If you do have spark, then make that red lead and fuse pristine before condemning the fuel harness, even though they all need replacing.

Here's a link to a spark troubleshooting guide: http://cleanflametrap.com/manIgnition76.jpg
 
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