• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Building a drift 245.

M

minusdarkslide

New member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Location
AZ
I have been drifting for a while. I learned on Nissan 240sx S13 and S14 chassis.
1395408_10201674179530353_415699968_n.jpg




Done a few engine swaps and some turbo stuff. I am ready for a change. This is my new car! I found her for $500 in Tucson, AZ. She drove all the way home to Sierra Vista and continues to run well. Not really sure what my plans are yet, but I just want to drift it.

340963_2983660564633_2129139352_o.jpg


So far, I've just prepped the rear to carry lots and lots of spares.

a>


If anyone would like to share their experiences or setups with a similar chassis, I would greatly appreciate it!
 
Last edited:
There is a guy on here that has a 350 V8 swapped 245 that is his drift monster. Check the project threads area in Showroom here and you'll probably find the thread. He was "Hoon of the Day" on Jalopnik a few weeks ago, too. lol.

BTW, nice find on the car and welcome to TB! Volvos rule.

EDIT: The thread I'm talking about is titled "Project Battle Wagon". Go check it out.
 
Last edited:
So far from what I have seen, the cars have plenty of steering angle from the factory, buy a set of 25mm front and 28 or 30mm rear spacers and a few sets of volvo 17s and 18s for cheap tire sizes. (5X108 is a relatively hard to find bolt pattern for aftermarket wheels). Weld the rear diff or install a two-way (I use an Aussie-Locker $240 brand new) Install a T5 (gm or ford) transmission with a stage 3-4 pressure plate. Either make your own front coilovers or buy them from RSI or trianglesunlimited. Cut IPD rear springs, use IPd 25/25mm sway bars for maximum oversteer. Then when you get tired of 100whp, Go throw a b230ft in it and make 280 reliable whp.
amiright?
 
Flyingtog: I saw that 350 wagon at aTraction Optional event last year (pic of me in the black S14). He seemed to be having trouble that day, but I've seen vid of his beast.

Turbo242: thanks for the suggestions! I've never been one to make drifting too complicated.

I'm definitely thinking of building a coilover setup front and adjustable rear. I'm prolly going with steelies from Cragar. They are cheap and I prefer 15s and 16s. I like to be able to mount tires by hand if needed. I figure I'll square the chassis away and worry about power later in the year.
 
I am hoping to run my first event next month, So we will see how my 242 does. Our factory parking brakes SUCK ASS, so my whole driving technique is keep power on to keep the diff locked, weight transfer and power over. Also second gear clutch kicks help.
 
Just do an LS swap or a SR and save yourself some hassle of building up a volvo engine.

And install a hydraulic brake to lock the rear calipers. Problem solved.
 
I kind of know this guy. I think I might have helped him make his decision to go with volvo instead of something stupid like a ford.

For future reference, the less vague a question is, the more helpful your responses will be.


But, I look forward to this and I promise I wont tell nick or anyone else what you're doing over here.
 
One of the two Formula D drivers in portland, Kyle Pollard, Has over an awful lot of $$$ into the motor in his 570whp SR. And he popped it once last season IIRC.
Kyle-Pollard.jpg
 
Last edited:
1983Turbo242 said:
Either make your own front coilovers or buy them from RSI or trianglesunlimited. Cut IPD rear springs, use IPd 25/25mm sway bars for maximum oversteer.
Click to expand...

the 25mm rear bar is a bit much, and makes it hike a wheel. He would be better off with less bar, and more spring. 300lb rear, 400lb front is a fair starting point. A clutch limited slip would work best. You want it to be controllable, not ass-happy.
 
mikep said:
the 25mm rear bar is a bit much, and makes it hike a wheel. He would be better off with less bar, and more spring. 300lb rear, 400lb front is a fair starting point. A clutch limited slip would work best. You want it to be controllable, not ass-happy.
Click to expand...

I have some experimenting to do now. Damn you mikep and your ideas and logic and reason and experience.
 
I didn't say make 500whp with a 2L 4cyl. Just do an LS swap if you want 500hp.

I know what shows up at drift events.
 
kahlua240 said:
I kind of know this guy. I think I might have helped him make his decision to go with volvo instead of something stupid like a ford.

For future reference, the less vague a question is, the more helpful your responses will be.


But, I look forward to this and I promise I wont tell nick or anyone else what you're doing over here.
Click to expand...

Howdy!

Its good to see someone familiar over here (even though we haven't met).

It wasn't really a question for help so much. I was just curious what others are doing. I try not to predict which way my build will go. I tend to change my mind alot.

Turbo242: I have no idea how experienced you are... but-As far as drifting goes; for me it has always been weld it, lower it, stiffen it and put cheap tires on it. Drifting is not hard. Practice is the most valuable thing you'll ever do for drift technique. One clutch kick should carry you. I typically don't touch the sidebrake.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top