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The Buchka 242 Street Car

Sweet, Are those actual mufflers on the car? or just resonators? it seems really quiet!

Why does the BOV move around?
 
Thanks guys! It means a lot.

Hodginsa said:
Sweet, Are those actual mufflers on the car? or just resonators? it seems really quiet!

Why does the BOV move around?
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Is that any more than an academic distinction? They have perf tube on the inside with some kind of wadding in between that and the outer wall.

The blow off valve is only constrained axially in one direction. When the diaphragm relaxes it allows the body to flop around a bit. It might survive that way, I'm not completely sure.
 
Just didn't sound like the mic was peaking in the video, that and I could hear the valve tick being louder than the exhaust note. In relation to mine with just a single resonator and side exit makes most cameras sound like crap when recording audio, and not able to hear anything but the exhaust. I considered adding another resonator to quiet it down a bit, hence the curiosity.

Unless you were talking about the muffler/resonator debate, in which I would say yours would be considered more resonators based on the description, but I guess that is debatable.

Can't wait to see this thing tear it up. It needs to stop being so cold around here so I can get some work done on mine without freezing myself.
 
And perhaps we can all meet at Carlisle in May :lol:

Honestly though, it would be great to see some nice American and Canadian cars there next year.
 
Alright, first drive has been completed. Went up and down the street a few times and even dipped in to boost (120kPa-ish) briefly.

I'm happy with how it runs. Homer's fuel map is obviously kinda all over the place, but worked surprisingly well. Checked the timing and it's bang on. I'm using the canned "Four Cylinder 60-2" config in VEMS.

The alternator isn't quite working correctly. The regulator seems to bench test OK, but in the car it only manages to keep the car at around 13V.

There are a few oil leaks as well. Seems to be seeping between the head and the cam carrier on the exhaust side. Welcome to 16 valve land I guess.

Anyway, here's a video Alex took. No driving, but we ****ed with the launch control a bit.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/eWgE6ofuEXk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

So before we could drive it, we went over to our buddy Adam's place and picked up my old driveshaft from the 242-T5 (thanks Adam!). We were hoping it would drop right in, but it seems the 16V sits a bit farther back than the whiteblock.

Decided to shorten it ourselves. How hard could it be? After some high precision angle grinder action, a harbor freight dial indicator, and a few beads with the TIG, we had ourselves a 40mm shorter driveshaft.

photo%25202.JPG
 
:wave: Nice progress guys. If Alex comes back this way before Jan. 6th I'm going to convince him to help me start on my 242 suspension so we can begin metrology & reverse engineering.

I'm not hip to the S?var BOV; still working on Swedish reading comprehension skills. Is it just the top half of a Stromberg carb with the dashpot acting as the valve? Still using the original diaphragm and piston? If so, that's a clever idea.
 
Duder said:
:wave: Nice progress guys. If Alex comes back this way before Jan. 6th I'm going to convince him to help me start on my 242 suspension so we can begin metrology & reverse engineering.

I'm not hip to the S?var BOV; still working on Swedish reading comprehension skills. Is it just the top half of a Stromberg carb with the dashpot acting as the valve? Still using the original diaphragm and piston? If so, that's a clever idea.
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The S?var blow off valve is just a diaphragm valve made from two Stromberg float bowl lids.

DSC00085.jpg


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The potentiometer on the vent knob is piped to an analog input in the VEMS, so I could conceivably use it to change almost any parameter in the ECU. Once I get the boost control turned on and tuned, I'm planning on using the knob to trim the boost target value.

Homer said:
Great, now I have to try the launch control. In the parking garage.
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Just use input channel "Always On" and you don't even have to do any wiring! :D
 
Karl Buchka said:
There are a few oil leaks as well. Seems to be seeping between the head and the cam carrier on the exhaust side. Welcome to 16 valve land I guess.
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I've had 3 different 16v heads on my block all seem to leak at the same spot or around the same area on the exhaust side. Can't seem to get around it.
 
42s262 said:
you guys are truly on another level, much respect. great read on the build thread too, took me a minute.
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Thank you!

Texas240 said:
When I learn the art of welding cast steel to aluminum I will
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What part of your engine is cast steel?

Put in an abbreviated session in the shop this evening. We adjusted the clutch a bit, swapped out the oil temp sensor, and got the cam carrier resealed.

I had sealed the carrier with Loctite 518, which, by the datasheet, looks to be very similar in performance to Loctite 510 (aka pink Volvo goop). The 518 had pretty much turned to goo wherever it had come in contact with oil. This is very confusing to me. I originally assembled the carrier in mid-September. Anyway, I was about to put in an order for a tube of 510 when I realized I still had some in a Volvo container.

Cleaning the head.

IMG_1321.JPG


After cleaning the carrier we spread the 510 like buttcheeks and bolted the carrier back up.

IMG_1323.JPG


The valve cover gasket came apart when we pulled it off, so I'll have to pick up another one tomorrow.

If you look at the shot of VEMSTune in the startup video you can see the oil temperature gauge going completely nuts. Either the thermocouple I'm using is bad or the amplifier chip is toast. The compression fitting I had in the pan was also seeping oil, so it was a double fail. I pulled the fitting out and was about to just plug it when I realized the bung had the same thread as a whiteblock coolant temp sender. I've got a number of those kicking around, so it was just a matter of extending the wires a bit and installing a mating connector that fits the original oil temp connector. Homer just put a cal table together for his sensor, so I grabbed that. I'll have to do a few wire mods inside the VEMS to finish it off.

IMG_1322.JPG
 
Loctite 510 has the advantage of being be oilresistent.(see datasheets) I never had a leak using volvo(which is 510) or the loctite stuff...


But be careful... If you use too much goop it can clog up everything... A really really thin layer is enough! And be smart if yo clean the surface... Scratches from inside to outside dont make things better ;)
 
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