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Just another B234FT Conversion..

So.. Valves are in the air already and..


...this will prevent me from bent valves happening again to me...
DSC_0043.jpg



... I hope... :D
 
Roy 940 said:
The cylinders are looking good for me!

About the pistons mark, I'm sure it can't be done by hand! IIRC, Linuxman had the same marks on the top of his pistons (they're slightly touching the head), and you had valve noise issue before you open your engine...
Click to expand...

I bent a couple exhaust valves on mine, but certainly not by turning it over by hand.

cosbySweater said:
Just kissing the valve to the piston can bend it, I didn't feel when I bent mine turning it over by hand...
Click to expand...

You're a complete tard if you bend valves turning the engine over by hand. stop when it gets tight, this should be common sense, but I guess not

MadDog_945 said:
hehe cool to see you here :)

Yeah.. i know that pistons reach higher positions while revving in higher rpm ranges.. but the rassling was almost gone after a few km..

Funny thing is.. the valves with hitmarks are sealing well.. the exhaust valves without marks are the ones who leak.. So when the intake ones should have hit while running they shouldnt seal like they do.. besides that i may have turned them while the spring was disassembled which could explain the marks going all the way around on some valves and on some not...
Click to expand...

I've heard tell they can somewhat straighten themselves out if the engine runs (obviously this is still not ideal), but the pictures provided would indicate an out-of-time issue for more than a little while. If you're hearing noise and replacing the lifters because the noise won't go away... well that's not lifter noise.

MadDog_945 said:
Ok.... well.... I'm extremely Pissed now...
Disassembled the head Yesterday.. Edelschrott...

All guides are bend, some valves had to be forced out of the guides, some had a **** load of play in the guide, all inlet Valves have heavy marks on their shafts and look like sandblasted and.. ...yes...
Click to expand...

Unless you got different guides, I don't see how you 'bent' ductile iron valve guides. they don't generally bend, they just crack and break and gall **** up.

So.. Have the seats regrinded, new guides, all new Valves + wages to get it done 700?? yeah.. .. i'm pissed...
Click to expand...

While you're spending bank, you should probably upgrade to bronze guides, they're not very expensive and you can get em fairly quickly from SIvalves.com. Johnv recommended them when I was shopping that out, and they're great people to deal with. I've had the OE valves crud up and get stuck in the OE guides esp when the car sits for a little while, this resulted in two massively bent exhaust valves on the race car last year.


IF you have not already checked, pull your crank pulley off and check the condition of your crank gear, if you broke it (common), your timing can drift and result in problems like this.

typically it will manifest itself as a running issue first (odd shift in powerband as the cam timing starts to get out of phase) followed by mechanical noise that does sound like a bad lifter... but the lifters themselves tend to not go bad that often, and even when they do, the noise you tend to hear is more of a flutter vs a valve tagging the piston is a more hollow metallic clack.

Either way, bummer, be absolutely sure all of your mechanical timing stuff is in good shape before you put it all back together or you could be right back in the same boat.
 
Hi,

thx for your detailed explanation :)

By now i think bad timing is responsible for this mess... My Crankgear is HD stuff from KL-Racing..
Also, i've ordered bronzemanganese valveguides from pete, fitting his 21-4n SS valves.


And trust me.. i will make sure everything before starting this engine up again.. ;)


What i need right now is measurementvalues for the cylinderhead minimum height and factory height.. i have the suspicion my head is radically under minimum height from planning... does anyone have them by hand?


/edit

OK.. found a nice 16v compendium...
http://www.noch-mehr-hubraum.de/html/body_motorverschleissdaten_b234f.html#Zylinderkopfnacharbeitung
 
Last edited:
So probably you made the same experience I did. Within the first attempt to rise hp in my B230FT I bought a "ready to go" 531 head (Turbo valves and so on).

After I had unexpected heavy knocking and a rough engine running over all rpm's at only 10psi, I dismounted it and.......WTF :omg: It was 0,5mm under the factory minimum hight and had a difference of 0,7mm between the 1st and 4th cylinder. With this difference the timing is anywehere but not where it should be :-)

Fortunately the valves didn't hit the pistons even with the IPD cam installed.

Steffen
 
So... Valves and guides arrived, heading to engine shop tomorrow..

On our yunkyard tour during vallokra i hope to find a camgearcover to not get tricked again...

Have two weeks of vacation after vallokra and will try to fix some things and get a MOT pass..
 
So..

Will get back the head today in the evening... overexcited ;) Maybe I have to get another Cat, but first.. lets see if everything works OK and nothing ****s up again.



I havent found a camgear cover to pick up, but found one motor which i could't tear apart but had a look to the Cambelt Cover... the pins on the plastic do everything but not lign up with the pins on the metal camcover...

Im still really confused how to set up the belt correctly..
 
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