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nissan s14 coilovers for volvo 240

Travis, I love that you took the time to try something new. I love that you would even post it up to let others see and have a low cost solution for performance parts for our cars.

While most of the comments here are pretty negative I do feel that these guys, no offense, have more experience with this stuff and at the end of the day really are just trying to help. Take everything with a grain of salt and keep it up! I'd love to see how this turns out..
 
how much lower than either of these cars does yours need to be travis? it wasnt really possible for me or jerd to go any lower and have the car still be somewhat driveable (and my car was on 205/45-16s).
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travisminchew said:
Did that to prevent slag landing there an messing up my threads what's the big deal
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Your very lucky if that alone doesn't mess up the threads. You'll learn with time, spring loaded ground clamps can mess up machined surfaces and threads very easily, that would be a easy write up at work Lol. Its veey comon for spring loaded crappy grounds to slip or move just a tiny bit leaving small arc's on material destroying its threads or machined finish.
 
2fast242gt said:
Your very lucky if that alone doesn't mess up the threads. You'll learn with time, spring loaded ground clamps can mess up machined surfaces and threads very easily, that would be a easy write up at work Lol. Its veey comon for spring loaded crappy grounds to slip or move just a tiny bit leaving small arc's on material destroying its threads or machined finish.
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hub nut goes on fine no biggie lol. you guys are just nit picking now. I realize it can arc that's why I didn't try and move it while welding lol wtf.

im doin some bracing today ill see wha tyou guys think when im done. yeah I know ppl are just trying to help but it got out of hand and now its just irritating.
 
and at asher idk how many times I gotta say this I told you on facebook already im not planning on be slammed im gunna be as low as my car is right now why so much focus on how low I wanna be?
 
travisminchew said:
hub nut goes on fine no biggie lol. you guys are just nit picking now. I realize it can arc that's why I didn't try and move it while welding lol wtf.

im doin some bracing today ill see wha tyou guys think when im done. yeah I know ppl are just trying to help but it got out of hand and now its just irritating.
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Hey, we all get picked on!
Welcome to car forums! :nod:

Shoulda seen the cyberbullying I got when I brough up Megasquirt. Or modding automatics! Wholly peal and squeal! :rofl:

I'm sure there was a time when coilovers were retarded. Look at everyone now.
Keep it up. Just make sure your spraying with that little welder.
 
Just though someone should mention that running "flush" wheels will push the contact patch (and thus vertical reaction load) farther out from under the strut and increase the bending moment on that joint.

zdriver123 said:
All the angry. I need to look at those Z coil overs though.
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I'm sure I've mentioned that I sectioned the coils on my 240z. I can try to find you pictures.
 
Silver said:
Just though someone should mention that running "flush" wheels will push the contact patch (and thus vertical reaction load) farther out from under the strut and increase the bending moment on that joint.



I'm sure I've mentioned that I sectioned the coils on my 240z. I can try to find you pictures.
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Definitely! I'm selling the 260 this spring and am looking at doing something for the 280zx.
 
travisminchew said:
and at asher idk how many times I gotta say this I told you on facebook already im not planning on be slammed im gunna be as low as my car is right now why so much focus on how low I wanna be?
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You actually did say you're going to run it really low. I'm just wondering why you are wanting to run a questionable setup with used coil overs. That's all. You're not really gaining much with this over a nice set of 8610s or something of the like.
 
Ran some flux core vertical up 4 pass last night as I do every night, but I have no idea what I'm talking about and im a "hater." Lol

<a href=http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/2fast242gt/?action=view&current=20140219_223238.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/2fast242gt/20140219_223238.jpg border=0 alt=></a>
Anywho when I built mine I used a wire more suitable, mc900 metalcore 350? preheat to help eliminate hydrogen embrittlement. I pressed mine in and welded it, the added gussets. If you add gusets try and wrap them down a but and cover some area. A spindle is the last thing I'd want to break on a car while driving.
<a href=http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/2fast242gt/?action=view&current=2011-11-16173530.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/2fast242gt/2011-11-16173530.jpg border=0 alt=></a>
 
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RvolvoR said:
You actually did say you're going to run it really low. I'm just wondering why you are wanting to run a questionable setup with used coil overs. That's all. You're not really gaining much with this over a nice set of 8610s or something of the like.
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Well, the way I see it is that coilovers for s-chassis cars are very low in cost and very abundant. Also, it gives him camber adjustment. It also seems easier than cutting a strut tube down to run shorter struts.

Like I said earlier, I'm kinda doing the same on my car, but I managed to get weld on strut tubes for mine, and I bought my coilovers new. Even with that my total cost is under $1000. And if I need to get my coilovers rebuilt, I can get that done locally at a good price.

I do agree that if he left a little more original strut tube materal, it wouldn't seem as bad as it would be better braced from inside. Either way, I would like to know how this turns out, and I'll save any negativity until after the finished product.
 
rancidponymilk said:
Well, the way I see it is that coilovers for s-chassis cars are very low in cost and very abundant. Also, it gives him camber adjustment. It also seems easier than cutting a strut tube down to run shorter struts.

Like I said earlier, I'm kinda doing the same on my car, but I managed to get weld on strut tubes for mine, and I bought my coilovers new. Even with that my total cost is under $1000. And if I need to get my coilovers rebuilt, I can get that done locally at a good price.

I do agree that if he left a little more original strut tube materal, it wouldn't seem as bad as it would be better braced from inside. Either way, I would like to know how this turns out, and I'll save any negativity until after the finished product.
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I think I have under -600 in mine including koni race inserts.
 
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