keesue
San Francisco Native
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2004
Here is a component failure inside the sealed black box idle control module.
Here is the resistance of the offending idle motor lead which corresponds to the trace from its input to the failed component on the board. Should be 20 ohms. Looks like voltage from green went to ground from a bit more amperage than the component could handle. The idle motor was sucking up the amps according to the board traces. *Poof* Yet another example of heat striking again!
Here is a picture of the voltage regulator in the alternator. It appears that unstable voltage took out the idle valve and the board. I'd say the idle motor was iffy anyway and gave up the ghost under those circumstances. This was a cheap China-made regulator since replaced by a Bosch.
Note to Charlie:
This is why I suggested you test out this subsystem. This is pretty extreme but not unreasonable and you can see that you never know and run the risk chasing your tail for sure if you don't. There are no published test procedures for the black box, as such, plus its sealed; however, you can test the idle motor for resistance, voltage from the the control module to the idle motor, resistance from the coolant temp sensor leads, voltage from the ignition coil lead and continuity from the throttle switch. If all of that passes, you may have a bum module.
I'll try and post up the measurements of a known good module. Without schematics, we have to assume they are correct; put another way, this modue, due to the failure on the green lead, is shot and for sure would not match know good specs on that lead. Without the schematics or opening up the module, it's hard to know. I did smell kinda funny though.
Here is the resistance of the offending idle motor lead which corresponds to the trace from its input to the failed component on the board. Should be 20 ohms. Looks like voltage from green went to ground from a bit more amperage than the component could handle. The idle motor was sucking up the amps according to the board traces. *Poof* Yet another example of heat striking again!
Here is a picture of the voltage regulator in the alternator. It appears that unstable voltage took out the idle valve and the board. I'd say the idle motor was iffy anyway and gave up the ghost under those circumstances. This was a cheap China-made regulator since replaced by a Bosch.
Note to Charlie:
This is why I suggested you test out this subsystem. This is pretty extreme but not unreasonable and you can see that you never know and run the risk chasing your tail for sure if you don't. There are no published test procedures for the black box, as such, plus its sealed; however, you can test the idle motor for resistance, voltage from the the control module to the idle motor, resistance from the coolant temp sensor leads, voltage from the ignition coil lead and continuity from the throttle switch. If all of that passes, you may have a bum module.
I'll try and post up the measurements of a known good module. Without schematics, we have to assume they are correct; put another way, this modue, due to the failure on the green lead, is shot and for sure would not match know good specs on that lead. Without the schematics or opening up the module, it's hard to know. I did smell kinda funny though.