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240 kjet no start after replacing CPR

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Addicted242boost
Joined
Dec 22, 2003
Location
California
84 240 turbo

A year ago the car would run for about a minute or two, then die. Before that it had issues with acceleration. Replaced fuel pump (in tank) and issue remained. Users here recommended I replace the Control Pressure Regulator (mine has the 2 year 128 altitude adjustment version).

Finally found one in the yard. Window tag said it ran when brought it (it got hit on passenger side), so I figured it was okay (all lines had fuel in them). Install the CPR along with intake manifold and all misc vacuum lines following diagrams in bentley/online.

Car gets spark (tested with coil plug on strut tower)
Car gets fuel (tested cold start injector out of manifold and cranked).

It looks like over the year while my car was sitting my fuel distributor developed a very slight leak as well, but the car should still attempt to start even with that I would think.

Any ideas?

Also, anyone know where to get a new seal or rebuild kit for the distributor?
 
Cranked it with wires coming off distributor cap and all had spark, tested each individually. The engine is getting fuel and spark.

Engine harness was replaced about 8 years ago and its still good (insulation good, no frays). All vacuum lines look good and hooked up per vacuum diagrams.

TestPoint said:
Does it start on starter fluid?

You probably do not want to open the fuel distributor.

Have you measured the fuel pressures?

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289775
Click to expand...

Ill try start fluid tomorrow night. Kind of have to open the distributor as there's a small leak between the two metal sections, so something inside needs a new o-ring or gasket.

Have no way of measuring fuel pressure. Guess I'll have to make that contraption you linked.
 
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Pull the FPR valve on the fuel distributor and check the two o-rings. Should be round and supple. Not flattened and dried out. Also, there is a relay on the driver's side fender. A cubed one. It powers the Frequency Valve via the Lambda. Pull it, open it and clean the contacts. This will cause precisely your problem. Both are finicky and crap the car out when faulty.
 
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Tried starting with starting fluid a few times, didn't even attempt to start.

keesue said:
Pull the FPR valve on the fuel distributor and check the two o-rings. Should be round and supple. Not flattened and dried out.
Click to expand...

Ill check that out tomorrow. I've been reading a few of your kjet threads, good info!
 
I can feel the relay click when I turn over the car. Am I looking for a specific voltage at a specific pin? When Ignition on or while cranking?
 
Check for voltage on the outbound side of the Fuel Pump Relay, the two blue wires and the two yellow/red wires. 12 volts while cranking. Same on the one on the fender. Should have 12 volts on the white wire which carries voltage to the lambda. When the engine fails, if the relays are faulty, voltage will disappear. While you have your meter, separate the connection from the ignition distributor and measure resistance to the distributor. Look for @1K plus 100 or so.

Eliminate electrical and might just find the fault. Gremlins...
 
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))<>(( said:
The engine is getting fuel and spark.
Click to expand...

Is it getting fuel AT THE CORRECT PRESSURE?

Does it have spark AT THE PLUGS?

Is it timed properly?

Does it have compression?

You should look into the basics before you start tearing into your delicate fuel system components to look at o-rings.

If you pull the connector off of the pump relay and run a jumper from the red wire to the yellow/red wire (they are at opposite corners of the connector) the pumps should run. If the car starts in this condition you may suspect the relay.
 
Fuel pressure: This is the only thing I don't know. I will have to build a contraption to measure it.
Spark: Each individual wire is getting spark.
Compression: Had compression when it last ran last November (actual #s I don't know). I don't see any reason why it wouldn't now, but I can check tomorrow.
Timing: Timing was fine when it last ran 1 year ago (was either 10 or 12). Nothing timing related has been changed when last ran 1 year ago, only fuel parts.


O-Rings look okay on the FPR.

fprvalve.jpg
 
Since you addressed my recommendation I'll jump back in: Front O-ring a bit flattened but it will do for now. Where is the washer between the spring and the valve body seat? You need that. It will crap out without it and won't run.
 
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))<>(( said:
When I disassembled the FPR I didn't see one
Click to expand...

Ahhhh. That is a problem. Here's why:

The system fuel pressure is adjusted by the thickness of the washer that sits between the spring and the seat. The fuel flows against that piston and the resistance to that flow gives you fuel system pressure. No washer = low pressure. That 128 regulator you installed can't do its job either.

Do you have a micrometer? Where are you in Cali?
 
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Find a washer that is 1mm thick that will fit between the spring and the seat nice-like; meaning it is about the same diameter of the spring. That willl give you @85psi. That will enable that 128 to do its job.

You in the North or South?
 
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