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Brown 244 GL

Excellent work my friend!

Thanks! :)

Well, it seems that a bigger problem occurred than the left B pillar's position...
My father talked to his former co-worker about the 244's damage, as he is repairing frame damaged cars almost every week.
After he inspected it he said the right lower windshield frame got pushed lower by the accident, and thats why the windshield cracked so easily when I pushed back the chrome trim.

It's not that big difference, I still were able to put the doors into position, but the door gap at the A pillar was a bit small. But big enough that the new windshield would stick out at that right lower section. Its about 2-4mm what it needs to be in position.



You can see how the old windshield sticks out...
But there is a risk, because I have to push that section harder than the elastic limit to actually move it something measureable. And if something goes wrong the cowl panel will be wobbly or the roof, and I Really, REALLY don't want that.
This is the only risky task of the all, fingers crossed it will come out nice today.

The left B pillar was pushed inside, and i threw on the doors and adjusted them. Now it looks really good and the door seal touch the chassis all around. Even the door shuts easier now than before, so I'm happy about the left side. :cool:
 
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Got the windshield frame pushed back, it was a little tricky to get the hydraulic cylinder into position (from the inner A pillar, through the left inner sill's seatbelt hole, and a wall) but it all came out nice and smooth. However I still have issues with the lower section of the B and A pillar. (door seals don't touch them properly) These will be fixed today.
 
Pushing back the A pillar to its original position:


Now it seems almost everything is ready to start patching the right side. :)
 
I'm quite familiar with Central Europe guys' abilities to renew old cars, but this is simply amazing. Keep up the great work dude!
 
I'm quite familiar with Central Europe guys' abilities to renew old cars, but this is simply amazing. Keep up the great work dude!

Thanks :nod:

Front passenger door was fabbed to accept the newer lock mechanism:




And put the door on. It shuts like a charm. :oogle:
But I'm not too satisfied with the door gaps as the lower A-C pillar distance decreased by the accident. This kind of frame damage often can't be repaired normally, so some cheat will be used to get the gaps right.
 
dude can i be your future costumer?

I don't want costumes. :cameron:

But yea, of course I can do stuff for you. ;-)

Finally removed the LPG tank, now I have access to the depths of the boot.
And some more hydraulic help still needed at the C pillar, and again, its risky as hell. :roll:
 
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ahah costumes..
but you got the point. my wagon will need some proper body work,probably next year..
I don't want costumes. :cameron:

But yea, of course I can do stuff for you. ;-)

Finally removed the LPG tank, now I have access to the depths of the boot.
And some more hydraulic help still needed at the C pillar, and again, its risky as hell. :roll:
 
Impressive body work skills on display here. 99 out of a 100 would have parted that car out... or just trashed it.

I'm sure! I just couldn't let this brown color/tan interior combo go to the crusher. And all the early thingies. I just love them. :nod:
Btw thanks!

I currently have some trouble to make this car manual legally, damn bureaocracy. :-(
And I'm in dilemma about keeping the LPG in the car. I have to put a new LPG tank in it if I keep it. But one of the disadvantages is that the fuel reduces the engine's lifetime.

So I'm thinking about
-methanol-water injection for cooler combustion chamber and valve lubricating
-decent ram-air system
-bigger radiator (size of a diesel, but full aluminium) with electric fan
-programmable ignition control
-butterfly valve to the exhaust to increase the power of engine brake
to increase MPG-s
and A/C to decrease the achieved higher MPG-s :rofl:
 
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There's a guy in Poland that has at least one set of rear Nivo suspension. I've acquired a set from him and I'm absolutely delighted with it - especially when carrying some loads it's worth a penny. The price is around 245 EUR for the pair - unfortunately only shocks & manual pumping gear included (you have to find the center console sterring and the compressor on your own). It's not 100% plug & play, as it's probably some universal kit and needs some cutting around the upper mount (although nothing impossible). PM me for details if you're interested.
 
Put an lh2.4 engine in and install an lpg injection system. I did on a b230fb with a kit from Megapol in Poland (STAG), dirt cheap, like 300-400 euro. No noticeable powerloss or the downsides of running lpg on a carburated engine. Lpg can take a higher compression without knocking. But watch for leaning out.
 
There's a guy in Poland that has at least one set of rear Nivo suspension. I've acquired a set from him and I'm absolutely delighted with it - especially when carrying some loads it's worth a penny. The price is around 245 EUR for the pair - unfortunately only shocks & manual pumping gear included (you have to find the center console sterring and the compressor on your own). It's not 100% plug & play, as it's probably some universal kit and needs some cutting around the upper mount (although nothing impossible). PM me for details if you're interested.

When I finish the bodywork, and have the money I'll buy some sort of shocks like those. I actually want to put a whole system from a factory equipped wagon (maybe a newer Volvo), that has electric compressor, fittings, pressure gauge. Only the centre console factory adjuster is needed, and shocks that fit the lowered car as I'd like to have a decent wheel travel. Compressed distance between eyes should be smaller than the factory shocks.

And these are not Nivos as I know. These shocks can be inflated, but without air they work like a standard shock. Nivos actually work every time, and they have some serious stuff inside.

Put an lh2.4 engine in and install an lpg injection system. I did on a b230fb with a kit from Megapol in Poland (STAG), dirt cheap, like 300-400 euro. No noticeable powerloss or the downsides of running lpg on a carburated engine. Lpg can take a higher compression without knocking. But watch for leaning out.

I thought about that, but it doesn't match my plans. I'm still fine with this oldschool carb and this engine as it was treated nicely, and I have to save money.
It's a very old, very tired engine, with piston rings that seen at least 200000 kms of clear LPG usage, yet still running fairly good.
I think it will do its (planned) last job for 2-4 years from now with proper maintenance and some little mods until I have the money to do a whiteblock swap. It won't be abused at this time, you can't even slide with 60hp on wet roads. :lol:

This was part of the reason I chose this car, it has a good running engine.
 
Bought 2 brand new copper radiator for like 70$. Not a bad deal. :cool:

I should really do the bodywork, but unfortunately I lost some motivation because of the school. :doh:
 
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First post was updated with better pictures&info, do not miss that. :)

What really holds back the project is that I don't have a place where I could work on it. Currently sits outside under cover. :grrr:
 
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Drove 120km just to cut some sheetmetal from a 240, now it seems everything is collected to repair the car properly. :nod:


 
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