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Old 09-13-2017, 04:24 AM   #951
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If your running a V8 you can grunt against the rear ratio.
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Thank you very much everybody... i now feel sufficiently retarded and will go cry in the corner...
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:28 AM   #952
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I'm not sure there's much point in a CD009 on an LSX build you're actually using. First gear is 3.784 - basically only a burnout gear - and sixth gear is 0.8ish, which probably wouldn't be great for highway cruising unless you've got a ridiculously high rear (well below what I've seen in a 1031, but in the range you could swap into your 8.8). My TKO's 5th is .64, and it's really not enough overdrive for highway cruising with a 3.73 rear.

FWIW, I've got a working formula for doing a TKO, but I'd go with a Magnum if I had to do it all over again.
A 3.31, 3.08, or 2.73 rear would work well. Close to a T56 or TKO with 3.73s with the added bonus of slower driveshaft rotational velocity.
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but volvo does not use a head gasket on this engine they use an anaerobic sealant applied very thin. I'm pretty sure OEM parts are mostly forged internals in volvo's and cast block. The fact your trying to poke fun at me saying it doesn't have a head gasket, when it doesn't, makes me wonder why your even here.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:32 AM   #953
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A 3.31, 3.08, or 2.73 rear would work well. Close to a T56 or TKO with 3.73s with the added bonus of slower driveshaft rotational velocity.
And 3 times the cost for a weak notchy trans
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Old 09-13-2017, 05:00 AM   #954
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you really need to retighten the headbolts ! and why do you smear grease on the gasket? is that MLS related? stuff on genuine gaskets is no good in my experience.. dont know how that works on MLS ones
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:27 AM   #955
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Yeah, I'm gathering that. It really is just such a bunch of work on a 240 16V. I've taken this engine apart plenty of times for various things (cracked block, broken wrist pin, thrown rod), but I think I've only taken it apart solely for a HG once before. And at that point I switched to ARP head studs.

Maybe the motor just doesn't normally stay together long enough for the HG to fail due to my installation ineptitude? Heh.

Hylomar is, in theory, to let the head squirm around on the block as they expand and contract at different rates because aluminum and iron. Of course, Cometic says to install their gaskets dry, BUT WHAT DO THEY KNOW???

This time around, I'll check block and head for flatness again, everything spotlessly clean, and then install the Cometic bone dry, torque to spec. Put it the rest of the way together, start it, drive it around the block and get it nice and warm, and then take it half apart again and retorque to a slightly higher than stock spec.

And start looking at LS swap parts a bit harder. It's been fairly casual back burner for a while.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:04 PM   #956
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Hylomar is, in theory, to let the head squirm around on the block as they expand and contract at different rates because aluminum and iron. Of course, Cometic says to install their gaskets dry, BUT WHAT DO THEY KNOW???
FWIW, when StealthFTI used to frequent TB, he told me when speaking directly with Cometic Engineers, they told him "That'll work" regarding his planned use of Hylomar. I've got 20K miles on my MLS gasket with Hylomar, but making half the power you probably are.
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:46 PM   #957
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And start looking at LS swap parts a bit harder. It's been fairly casual back burner for a while.
Ls donors are rather cheap in Dallas when you check around the salvage yards here. You could probably do two swaps with what you've put into your 16v by now since we've met back in 2008
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:14 AM   #958
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And start looking at LS swap parts a bit harder. It's been fairly casual back burner for a while.
I want your boots and your DSM CAS if you have
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:56 PM   #959
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Boots?

I figure if I pull the 16V I'll part it out.

Lots of options for relocated shifters on the CD009's, from on top, to stubby one behind the trans. I'd have to get it together and roughly in the car before I'd know which kind to get.

Yeah, time to just pull the head off and stop looking at LS swap parts.
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:39 PM   #960
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lol
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:53 PM   #961
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Keep looking at ls swaps
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:57 PM   #962
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My current thoughts are to swap in a new HG, and to actually go ahead and get an L33 and a CD009 and stick those together and start actively getting more ready for that swap.
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:11 PM   #963
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Yea that sounds like a good idea. You should probably go ahead and start looking for a turbo for the l33 as well
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:17 PM   #964
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Yep. I was sort of half planning on doing it NA for a bit, then adding a turbo, but why bother setting up the exhaust without a turbo? I know damn well I'm going to put one on it anyhow.
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:56 PM   #965
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Yep. I was sort of half planning on doing it NA for a bit, then adding a turbo, but why bother setting up the exhaust without a turbo? I know damn well I'm going to put one on it anyhow.
Exhaust on the na v8 240s looks to be a pain in the ass
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:44 PM   #966
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plus you'll just be mad that it's only got like 350 hp and is loud. drink the cool-aid, go straight to the bewst.
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:58 PM   #967
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plus you'll just be mad that it's only got like 350 hp and is loud. drink the cool-aid, go straight to the bewst.
Procharger?
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:40 PM   #968
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Procharger?
Probably would hit the hood
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:40 PM   #969
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plus you'll just be mad that it's only got like 350 hp and is loud. drink the cool-aid, go straight to the bewst.
This
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:56 PM   #970
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Ls donors are rather cheap in Dallas when you check around the salvage yards here. You could probably do two swaps with what you've put into your 16v by now since we've met back in 2008
Probably even cheaper now?! Hate to hear lots of hard work, time, and money be lost- particularly to a chebbie engine, but they are cheap power. After making exhaust on a NA V8 swap, I could see how the turbo would get it in a better position.
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I don’t know how to respond.
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:20 PM   #971
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Probably even cheaper now?! Hate to hear lots of hard work, time, and money be lost- particularly to a chebbie engine, but they are cheap power. After making exhaust on a NA V8 swap, I could see how the turbo would get it in a better position.
He could part it and make money
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:44 PM   #972
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hah he won't *make* money parting it out. That's at least part of the reason I've still got mine kicking around in the wings.
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:48 PM   #973
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This
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Probably would hit the hood
Penishood with procharger?
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:11 PM   #974
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hah he won't *make* money parting it out. That's at least part of the reason I've still got mine kicking around in the wings.
My 16vt swap paid for half of my v8 swap
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Old 09-17-2017, 12:53 PM   #975
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Failure mode looked pretty familiar. It didn't seal in one spot, looks like compression was leaking all the way out of the block underneath the intake manifold for a little bit until it spread over to the coolant passage.



The steel was split along the fire ring crimp:



This was on #2. #3 was also starting to go the same way:


Mark opn the block showing where it was leaking out to the outside:


Everything looks pretty nice inside there, though. (Other than THAT, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?) No signs of detonation, bores like nice and pretty, all 4 cylinders look pretty even in terms of deposits and soot. Another MLS headgasket and valve cover gaskets ordered.
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