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Old 05-26-2017, 08:53 AM   #26
blkaplan
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Originally Posted by DMFWallace View Post

5) Please elaborate? The dash is in great shape compared to my GLT, but if there's a problem area I need to preemptively fix let me know!
The mounting points typically break and if you reinforce them before they fail you can keep your dash from rattling apart.
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:28 AM   #27
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Whelp! Its been about a week so I suppose it was about time for me to break something!

Not quite sure what went wrong. Hadn't been driving the car hard at all tonight. Was actually on the way home from picking up my daughter from her auntie's house when I noticed the car was making a ticking sound that I could hear with the sunroof open

Got the car home, driving normally - don't feel anything wrong - but it's brokeazz. I'm thinking rod knock, not 100% sure though. Will limp it to the shop tomorrow and perhaps take a look oin the pan. It's full of oil, everything seems okay, just making a tick now. I'm wondering how the hell it went from driving normal and quiet to "what the hell is that ticking sound??" In about 15 minutes. Oh well. I'm in it for enough dough that its worthwhile to fix or replace the engine. If anyone has insight or knowledge to share about exposing the bottom end on these now is the time!

https://youtu.be/34N7BgBBMCc
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:44 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
The mounting points typically break and if you reinforce them before they fail you can keep your dash from rattling apart.
Ahhh yes. That happened to my blue car (the glt) Its rather aggravating - that's the main reason I stopped driving it! Will read up on reinforcing the dash mounting once I fix the knocking sound and/or rebuild the motor
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:46 AM   #29
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Re rod knock, light rod knock will go away with a little throttle, and come back on the lift off - the cylinder pressure keeps the piston away from the head. The other obvious thing to do is hold the dip stick up to a light and look for sparkles.

Top end sounded quiet enough, though. Ominous loudness from around the block. I don't know these whiteblock engines too well, but certainly indicates a rod knock to my untrained ear over youtube with encoding losses. Good luck!
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:07 AM   #30
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Drain the oil, have a good rummage around inside, what's to be found.

Filter and refill, see what happens.
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:27 AM   #31
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Hydraulic valve lifter gone bad?
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:46 AM   #32
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Exhaust leak?
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:06 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by DMFWallace View Post
Whelp! Its been about a week so I suppose it was about time for me to break something!

Not quite sure what went wrong. Hadn't been driving the car hard at all tonight. Was actually on the way home from picking up my daughter from her auntie's house when I noticed the car was making a ticking sound that I could hear with the sunroof open

Got the car home, driving normally - don't feel anything wrong - but it's brokeazz. I'm thinking rod knock, not 100% sure though. Will limp it to the shop tomorrow and perhaps take a look oin the pan. It's full of oil, everything seems okay, just making a tick now. I'm wondering how the hell it went from driving normal and quiet to "what the hell is that ticking sound??" In about 15 minutes. Oh well. I'm in it for enough dough that its worthwhile to fix or replace the engine. If anyone has insight or knowledge to share about exposing the bottom end on these now is the time!

https://youtu.be/34N7BgBBMCc
I had a similar issue, but I decided to dig around first before taking it to a shop.

And I never did take it too a shop!!!!!

This engine seems really sensitive to oil level!!!! As long as my oil level is topped, and I mean really topped off, it's fine. You may not know, but if the dipstick was replaced (these seem to suffer from using that same crap plastic the dash used) the marks may not be the same. On my new one, I keep the level ABOVE the full mark on the stick. and haven't had a recurrence of this.

All that said, the my motor has 185K and has been hammered I'm sure, not to mention the beating I give it. In spite of still running well, I'm already thinking long term about bottom end and transmission rebuilds / replacements. There are some noises and whines it makes, but when it's warm that all goes away and it's ready to mis-behave.

For those that don't know, just buying a replacement dip-stick for this car is not straightforward. It's a cruel joke of some sort actually. If you've been down this road you know what I'm on about.
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:13 AM   #34
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Ahhh yes. That happened to my blue car (the glt) Its rather aggravating - that's the main reason I stopped driving it! Will read up on reinforcing the dash mounting once I fix the knocking sound and/or rebuild the motor
Sorry I forgot to answer this myself earlier.

1) You'll find tons of stuff on removing the dash pad. That's only half what you need.

2) You'll find dead links to stuff on how to remove the dash. PDF's and 5h1t. I'm out of town until Tuesday (morning coffee and internet rummage before I ride some DH) but PM me and I'll try to find the pdf I managed to find on how to remove it via the way back machine.

There are some links however that will have pics of what people have done. It'll show you strips of sheet metal and layers of epoxy! LOL
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Old 05-28-2017, 03:35 PM   #35
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Whelp, no shiny bits in the oil. Drained and Filled, nothing looks out of the ordinary. Just Noisy. Stethoscope indicates it's a bottom end noise although I can hear it on the valve cover - just not as loud as on the pan. I'm at a crossroads on how to handle it but they all start from the same place: Make it last through the summer.

Option 1 is find a b5234t and build it in the garage then do the swap in the fall months when I don't need A/C and will be driving the wagon - this car won't see winter weather as long as I own it regardless. I'm thinking a build would entail honing, rods/bearings, log manifold and a t3 frame turbo.

Option 2 is once garaged, pull the existing engine and tear it down, attempt to find the source of the noise and if the block is okay get the crank surfaced, do the aforementioned build, and button it up.

Option 3 is why wait. Garage it, get the GLT through inspection and just live with a rattling dash but an otherwise very reliable car. Pull the pan off the R and see if I can figure out what it is, do the bare minimum fix, get it back on the road.

I'm leaning toward option 1. 3 isn't bad but the insanity that comes with that dash in the glt being 2" away from the windshield is.. ugh. Scary. For now though, I'm just gonna drive it. If it gets worse or gives me indications its gonna let go I'll go ahead and park it but for now it drives fine. Just be gentle with it.
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Old 05-28-2017, 03:56 PM   #36
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Thicker oil and maybe overfill a bit? Can't hurt to try if you're gonna rebuild/replace anyway.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:12 PM   #37
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Well my thinking is similar. I have a ''97 T5 that will give up the ghost for the R.

I just hate working on P80's!
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:11 AM   #38
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#1 but pull the motor out of an R or out of an 05+ T5 and just keep the manifold and K24 and swap tunes.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:04 AM   #39
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Thicker oil and maybe overfill a bit? Can't hurt to try if you're gonna rebuild/replace anyway.
I actually had about an eighth a bottle of that super thick lucas additive, added that to the oil and the noise came down a little bit. Might consider stepping up to 10-40 oil and adding a bit more lucas. Just worried about gumming up the itty bitty turbo passages with that uber thick lucas.. might be my imagination though.

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Well my thinking is similar. I have a ''97 T5 that will give up the ghost for the R.

I just hate working on P80's!
Agreed. Compared to redblocks these things are a maze but they're far from the worst. I've done more surgery to my GLT than all of my redblock cars combined. I'm glad I had the learning experience on that car as opposed to finding out the hard way on this nice example. Only thing I haven't done yet on a P80 is swap an engine and mess with the delta link rear.. It's so funny to me that all of my other cars look like total ass but run just dandy.. and the one car I have that is absolutely gorgeous has this annoying ass noise that worries me to death Ugh.. P80s. It's a love/hate.

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#1 but pull the motor out of an R or out of an 05+ T5 and just keep the manifold and K24 and swap tunes.
That's a consideration! I guess I should probably make an account on a FWD oriented forum and start doing research on the popular RN swaps and how to do it. The R is doing fine overall, no lack in power, not even a hiccup. The ticking is just annoying..
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:13 AM   #40
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Just drive it til it blows, IMO. Make sure you have AAA.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:55 AM   #41
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Just drive it til it blows, IMO. Make sure you have AAA.
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:29 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by DMFWallace View Post
I actually had about an eighth a bottle of that super thick lucas additive, added that to the oil and the noise came down a little bit.
Use something with a high zinc content.

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Agreed. Compared to redblocks these things are a maze but they're far from the worst. I've done more surgery to my GLT than all of my redblock cars combined. I'm glad I had the learning experience on that car as opposed to finding out the hard way on this nice example. Only thing I haven't done yet on a P80 is swap an engine and mess with the delta link rear.. It's so funny to me that all of my other cars look like total ass but run just dandy.. and the one car I have that is absolutely gorgeous has this annoying ass noise that worries me to death Ugh.. P80s. It's a love/hate.
Definitely love/hate! I went for my usual early Sunday AM flog yesterday and was like, "I love this car!". Then went for another drive later and could literally see part of the dash under the windshield crack when going over a bump!

Then I was like "I PHUCKEN HATE THIS CAR!!!!"

Honestly for me, all roads are pointing towards a 996!
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Old 06-10-2017, 11:11 PM   #43
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Have you considered dumping anything in the oil to break up carbon deposits?
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Old 06-11-2017, 02:22 AM   #44
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Are you sure it's not something external? Belt tensioner? Power steering pump? My friend had what he swore was a rod knock in a Saab Sonnet that turned out to be a loose fender liner that was vibrating against the fender.
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:32 AM   #45
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Are you sure it's not something external? Belt tensioner? Power steering pump? My friend had what he swore was a rod knock in a Saab Sonnet that turned out to be a loose fender liner that was vibrating against the fender.
In the same vein, a horrible rattle my V70R was making under hard acceleration ended up just being a loose heat shield right under the passenger compartment.
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:47 PM   #46
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Hey guys, I'd stethoscoped it up and down. Seemed louder towards cylinder one and it was loud all around on the pan.

The good and bad news is, the noise is gone. Not sure why or how though. Best case scenario it was a collapsed lifter or whatever.. worst case I finished breaking whatever was making the noise.

Either way, car still pulls great and purrs quietly again so I'm happy. Going to pick up a good spare engine and transmission on Friday so if all else goes well I'll have something to put rods, n/a cams, and a big Garrett on this winter. Have everything but rods and bearings (and the million gaskets white blocks take) but this car is so nice it deserves it.

I've contacted beust tuning and looks like I'll need to reinstall a TCV and after that get one of his tunes. I've got the wideband ready to go just need time to weld a bung on and wire the sumbitch up. Investigating triple gauge pods.. also different boost gauges. This green Autometer NV gauge makes it so I can't see a damn thing at night..
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:57 AM   #47
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Just a little update on this car - been doing tons of little things to it, may actually make a "build" thread in the coming weeks now that I have enough material and photos to do so. Perhaps I'll just post pictures in this thread though since it's not really a "build" per say. Things are just in need of replacement..

So far I've:

- Replaced the annoyingly green autometer boost gauge with an elcheapo "glowshift" which makes night driving a LOT easier on the eyes
- Replaced the factory HU for which I'd previously installed a GROM unit in favor of a 6.2" Kenwood touchscreen with BT and USB inputs (kicks ass)
- Replaced front door speakers with Infiniti Primus 5.25". Modified rear deck speaker housings to accept JBL 5x7" which turned out really clean and stealthy.. removed rear door speakers (for now) but have another set of the Primus to go in the factory "boxes".
- Replaced several rotting vac hoses but still far from done
- MSD coil and all new ignition components
- 302mm front brake conversion with SS lines and centric drilled/slotted rotors (stops a lot better now and really helps to fill in the Pegs a little more)
- Do88 all aluminum radiator as the old one developed a crack in the end tank right at the top and was blowing coolant all over the place whenever I got on it
- Installed horn repair kit in spare R wheel, will be replacing my current steering wheel soon, leather is peeling at 12 o' clock.

Near future:

- PCV. I don't know the history on it and I want that to be freshened so at least I know it's been done.. it'll be ~5hrs and about $150 but totally worth it. I work slow.. and drink a lot.
- Get the wideband in and find a spot to mount it where it's not right in my face like the old green autometer was. I did pick up a triple gauge pod but not sure if I want to use it yet.
- Some sort of intake. Not sure if I want to go all one-piece silicone or do the snabb intake which is silicone couplers with metal piping. It's also cheaper than the all-silicone ones.
- Replace this awful RIP kit with a new one or go back to the factory piping with new silicone couplers. This one doesn't have rolled beads and has about 2x as many silicone couplers as it should. I'm sure it has leaks and whatnot and it looks pretty bad at this point. The nicest part of it is the turboXS BOV.
- Fix small exhaust leak at 1st muffler


After all this, I'll consider finally getting a tune from beust if they're still around. This winter I'm considering swapping to n/a cams which are plentiful in the j/ys around here. It just seems like quite a task to disassemble the 5-cyl heads so maybe I'll hold off until it needs some other top end work. And to be honest I'm pretty happy with the power the car already makes, it just gets a little choked up at high revs because of the teeny-tiny turbine housing I'm sure.

I've had a spare T5 laying around for a couple months from when I thought I bent a rod/broke a piston (still not sure I didn't). I want to get the valve cover off the spare engine and send it off to be powder coated or do something with it. Mine is pretty nasty looking. The engine came from a running vehicle but the seller said it had a burnt valve. He was nice enough to send me photos/videos of the car running/driving/idling/boosting before he pulled the engine so I'm not that concerned about the used engine. I'm thinking any future "build" related things will be done to this engine that way it's nice and easy to swap if I ever get around to it.

So far the car has been doing really well overall. It's fairly quiet and fairly quick although turned it down to 15psi (peak) 12psi (hold).. before it was more like 17/15. I'm super happy with how the audio system is going and I'm shopping amps/subs but don't know how I want to do the box yet. I'm thinking a big plate right beneath the rear of the trunk opening going straight down. Would basically cut the trunk in half but it'll look nice.. I remember Doug did some really nice work in the trunk of his T-5R for a sub but can't find the thread/details on how to do a box like that.

Edit: I'd been running 5-30 synthetic Mobil1 in the car for a while but noticed I was having a lot of valve train noise on startup so I decided to go to a 10/40 which I should have been running anyway (at least during the summer months). I found some Royal Purple on amazon, something like a little under $50 for a case of 6 and $13 for a single so 7 quarts total was a little over $60. It's the HPS line which I believe is full synthetic with "synerlec" additive. Has zinc/phosphorous additives as well but it's said they won't hurt the catalytic converter. There's now zero valvetrain noise on startup, seems this oil has a nice film strength and doesn't dry out overnight. I even let the car sit at the office for a few days while I drove the wagon because the radiator in the 850 was leaking so bad. No valvetrain noise on startup even after sitting 3 days, so needless to say I'm impressed with the RP oil and I'll continue to run it. I may step down to a 5-30 or 5-40 during the winter but I won't be driving the car very much at all so I may just leave it alone with the 10-40.

Last edited by DMFWallace; 09-14-2017 at 10:32 AM..
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:00 PM   #48
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Speaker Mod:

JBL Stage 8602

Cutting away bull****:

Cut away some more bull****:

Cut the basket out from the top plate with some tin snips or whatever:

Clean up the edges on the plate or don't:

Carrier and newly made mounting flange:

Speaker fits great! Once everything is screwed in place, take it all back apart
because you realize you can't get the spade terminals on with the speaker in the box, do that, then put it all back together:

Finished:
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:27 PM   #49
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Currently sitting like this, still planning on getting the Pegs powdercoated in gunmetal with a lot of metal flake.. or something along those lines:

New cooling system parts, do88 radiator and hoses, new expansion tank and 2 gallons of genuine Volvo coolant:

This car is toad approved:

Improvised license plate bracket:

Improvised license plate bracket 2:

Improvised license plate bracket 3:

What most of the vac elbows on the car looked like:

Office pic, keep a couple cars up here to keep the driveway less crowded:

302mm vs factory 280mm:

Neat pic with my sad 940T in the garage being used as a storage bin:

Kenwood 6.2" touchscreen jams from Crutchfield:

New door speakers:

Continued:

"Volvo blue" coolant is not blue.

Before the rad swap, after MSD coil and a few other odds and ends and some cleaning:

850R family hauler, 245 everything else hauler (complete with "DURABLE" license plate!):

OEM brand trans mount which had a POS aftermarket small end bushing, so I reused my existing small end:

Glad this stupid bright boost gauge is gone. I'll get a pic of the current one. It's MUCH easier on the eyes:
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:44 PM   #50
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As a side note, I have a VERY bright and VERY green* boost gauge for sale. Works fine**, just don't plan on seeing anything while turning left, or backing up at night using the driver's mirror. Or seeing at night in general.***

*Read: Very annoying
**Bonus points, you can be seen from space
***May cause blindness or a hot left hand from covering it while driving
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