F
frpe82
Guest
You guys remember this thread, right?: Advance/retard timing on EZ116K
Here comes part 2, overkill...
The circuit diagrams are made in a simple program for illustration only, so please don?t comment on the quality of my schematics.
Now that you know that, let?s begin.
For the love of god, don?t do this mod if...
* You are not familiar with the sound of knock/ping.
* You do not understand the implications this might have on your engine.
* You do not have any basic electronics and/or fault-tracing skills.
The results will be disastrous if you don?t know what you are doing.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
First of all: This mod will not be acting in the same logical way as the mechanical retard/advance from turning the distributor you may be familiar with on/from the LH2.2 system.
This mod will alter the base values used in the algorithms and logarithms of the chip in the ECU, and will not be a linear function like the statical change in ignition timing on LH2.2.
This mod will work on both turbo and NA, both chipped and stock EZK. Although I recommend that this mod is done on the chipped EZK since that chip has the optimal ignition curve. The stock EZK doesn?t. Trust me, I promise you that by all that is holy.
On the stock EZK you may get some "holes" in the ignition map with too much or too little ignition advance, and the mod you make will be somewhat of a compromise between off-boost and on-boost power or a compromise between high rpm or low rpm power.
Either way, any of the EZK?s will be somewhat tuneable, chipped or not.
For this mod we will use one or both of the following: Pin #2 and pin #8 on the EZK.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
We'll start with pin #2 on the EZK:
* Connected to the coolant sensor (ECT) in the head.
* Unlike the LH2.4 fuel side, the ECT when connected to the EZK is not used to determine when the engine is fully warmed up, and when to stop using the parameters in the cold-running map (in the LH2.4 fuel ECU this means more fuel injected when the car is colder than ~65*C).
* The voltage fed to this pin will read ~1.5V when the coolant temperature is between summer and winter thermostat setting. At this time, the ignition map in the EZK will be un-altered, and the car will be running like intended.
* The voltage drops when the engine gets hotter, and rises when the engine gets colder.
So what can we do? What is the mod you are talking about?
Advancing and retarding the ignition.
Some safety against knock/ping because the function of rising engine temperature is sustained.
Component list:
* One 10 KOhm potentiometer of your choice (for ease of installation).
* Two 1 KOhm resistors.
* Two 470 Ohm resistors.
This mod will give you the ability to adjust the output from the ECT between ~50% and ~170% of its current voltage (at normal engine temperatures), and thereby giving you a stepless control over the ignition advance and retard.
Since it is adjusting the output of the ECT and not a fixed voltage supply, the ignition advance/retard as an effect of cylinder head temperature still works. It will not work exactly in the same way as stock though.
Once you have tried the potentiometer and you know which values works best under certain circumstances (race gas at the track, a hot day in traffic etc.), you can of course substitute the potentiometer with an array of select resistors to have a few known predetermined steps/setups to use.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I will continue this article/post soon, so stay tuned...
Then I will also add how to make a working/successful mod for EZK pin #8 to be able to adjust the timing retard/advance in accordance to load and mass-flow through the AMM.
See you soon,
Fredrik
Here comes part 2, overkill...
The circuit diagrams are made in a simple program for illustration only, so please don?t comment on the quality of my schematics.
Now that you know that, let?s begin.
For the love of god, don?t do this mod if...
* You are not familiar with the sound of knock/ping.
* You do not understand the implications this might have on your engine.
* You do not have any basic electronics and/or fault-tracing skills.
The results will be disastrous if you don?t know what you are doing.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
First of all: This mod will not be acting in the same logical way as the mechanical retard/advance from turning the distributor you may be familiar with on/from the LH2.2 system.
This mod will alter the base values used in the algorithms and logarithms of the chip in the ECU, and will not be a linear function like the statical change in ignition timing on LH2.2.
This mod will work on both turbo and NA, both chipped and stock EZK. Although I recommend that this mod is done on the chipped EZK since that chip has the optimal ignition curve. The stock EZK doesn?t. Trust me, I promise you that by all that is holy.
On the stock EZK you may get some "holes" in the ignition map with too much or too little ignition advance, and the mod you make will be somewhat of a compromise between off-boost and on-boost power or a compromise between high rpm or low rpm power.
Either way, any of the EZK?s will be somewhat tuneable, chipped or not.
For this mod we will use one or both of the following: Pin #2 and pin #8 on the EZK.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
We'll start with pin #2 on the EZK:
* Connected to the coolant sensor (ECT) in the head.
* Unlike the LH2.4 fuel side, the ECT when connected to the EZK is not used to determine when the engine is fully warmed up, and when to stop using the parameters in the cold-running map (in the LH2.4 fuel ECU this means more fuel injected when the car is colder than ~65*C).
* The voltage fed to this pin will read ~1.5V when the coolant temperature is between summer and winter thermostat setting. At this time, the ignition map in the EZK will be un-altered, and the car will be running like intended.
* The voltage drops when the engine gets hotter, and rises when the engine gets colder.
So what can we do? What is the mod you are talking about?
Advancing and retarding the ignition.
Some safety against knock/ping because the function of rising engine temperature is sustained.
Component list:
* One 10 KOhm potentiometer of your choice (for ease of installation).
* Two 1 KOhm resistors.
* Two 470 Ohm resistors.
This mod will give you the ability to adjust the output from the ECT between ~50% and ~170% of its current voltage (at normal engine temperatures), and thereby giving you a stepless control over the ignition advance and retard.
Since it is adjusting the output of the ECT and not a fixed voltage supply, the ignition advance/retard as an effect of cylinder head temperature still works. It will not work exactly in the same way as stock though.
Once you have tried the potentiometer and you know which values works best under certain circumstances (race gas at the track, a hot day in traffic etc.), you can of course substitute the potentiometer with an array of select resistors to have a few known predetermined steps/setups to use.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I will continue this article/post soon, so stay tuned...
Then I will also add how to make a working/successful mod for EZK pin #8 to be able to adjust the timing retard/advance in accordance to load and mass-flow through the AMM.
See you soon,
Fredrik
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