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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

I was just thinking that an adjustment bolt/point under what the spring rests against. So theres one side grabbing the pedal, and the other side rests against something, right, so if you can drill and tap that something and toss a bolt in it, the spring now rests against the bolt, loosen or tighten the bolt and it adjust the preload on the spring.
 
I was just thinking that an adjustment bolt/point under what the spring rests against. So theres one side grabbing the pedal, and the other side rests against something, right, so if you can drill and tap that something and toss a bolt in it, the spring now rests against the bolt, loosen or tighten the bolt and it adjust the preload on the spring.

Yeah, the adjustment would be ideal. Just not sure how much room there is to tap the plastic pivot housing. I'll have to check it out later.

Fixing the warm running issue is the first priority.
 
Instead of tapping the plastic, find a bolt/nut short enough and to fit (drill a hole in the plastic to hold the nut/bolt assembled) and let the spring pressure hold the assembly in place?
 
Is the intake manifold tumbled or something? Looks really nice. The entire project does.

Thank you. I just used a random orbital with 150, 220, 320, then Scotch-Brite. Mostly I just wanted to get rid of the nasty marks from the break that bent the plenum.
 
It's reasonably small [sorry if the picture is not]

D24_engine_bay_of_a_1990_volvo_240.JPG
 
Awesome work, congrats on getting it on the road. I really like how tidy and compact that intake is. Nice job.
 
Got to see it up close this past weekend. The car looks fantastic rolling down the road.
Great work! Can't wait to see it cleaned up with a fresh wax! Maybe at the next Canepa?
 
Got to see it up close this past weekend. The car looks fantastic rolling down the road.
Great work! Can't wait to see it cleaned up with a fresh wax! Maybe at the next Canepa?

Yeah, I'd like to go to the next one. I have a really long list of things to address before then.

-Relocate oil cooler so it doesn't heat soak radiator.

-Replace Yoshi trans mount with stock 164 mount. (too much NVH)

-A couple oil changes and a filter relocation set up

-Plumb Yoshi vented valve cover cap for better PCV. (It's got some pressure and some seals are leaking. Not what I expected on a fresh rebuild.)

-Try to fit the 240 diesel airbox in there

-Install stock rubber bushings in all suspension

-more...
 
Yoshi fab HD rubber mount?

Fresh engines can eat oil till rings set

Great work man i wish i could commit to something like this on any 140

Yeah, I'd like to go to the next one. I have a really long list of things to address before then.

-Relocate oil cooler so it doesn't heat soak radiator.

-Replace Yoshi trans mount with stock 164 mount. (too much NVH)

-A couple oil changes and a filter relocation set up

-Plumb Yoshi vented valve cover cap for better PCV. (It's got some pressure and some seals are leaking. Not what I expected on a fresh rebuild.)

-Try to fit the 240 diesel airbox in there

-Install stock rubber bushings in all suspension

-more...
 
Yoshi fab HD rubber mount?

Fresh engines can eat oil till rings set

Great work man i wish i could commit to something like this on any 140

Yeah, the Yoshi HD Rubber mount. I made custom motor mounts and the motor is sitting maybe 3/8" further forward than the stock one. So it was pulling on the rubber trans mount too much. The Yoshi one seemed a bit taller, plus it's stronger so I thought it might be a quick fix. The NVH is too much for me, though, so now I have to go back to stock rubber and make some spacers to make up for the offset. Whoops.

I just drained the break-in oil after maybe 500 miles (probably should have sooner), and it was basically exactly how much I had put in there. It was black as sin, but I didn't see any metal shavings, besides the fine particles that the magnetic drain plug picked up. I'll cut open the filter tonight to check that, but I think things are staying together for the most part.

And thanks for the compliment. Commitment is a good term for this project. I would probably not attempt it again until I had a garage.
 
I've been putting some miles on this car, and I'd say that overall I love it. It has a myriad of small issues, but the feeling of ~200 hp in a 50 year old Volvo is pretty sweet. I have surprised some people.

I think I finally figured out why it was running a bit hot. Well, first I had to purge air from the cooling system, which is not easy with the way I "designed" the radiator. Next time I'll make SURE the filler neck is the highest point. But anyway, the oil cooler was almost touching the IC which is very close to the radiator. It was heat soaking whenever the oil cooler thermostat would kick on. It never over heated, but it was making me uncomfortable. I spaced it out a couple inches, and temps are a lot more steady.

Unfortunately, all that work I did on the fuel tank was for naught, because it starves a bit around long rights (freeway on ramps). I'm sure it's better than it would have been with no baffle, but still...

The bad PCV set up and too much blow-by initially made the cam seal and rear main seal leak, and although I think the PCV issue is solved, the cam seal still weeps, so I have a Genuine Volvo one ready to go in. I do want to buy a leak down tester to actually see what's going on once the rings are fully seated. Who knows, maybe I screwed up the ring gap.

Anyway, I'm reasonably sure that my engine is going to keep working so now I need to focus on the rest of the car. GAZ adjustable rear shocks with updated valving are showing up today, and I have new rubber bushings for all the front and rear suspension. I also may get some spring spacers because now that I can drive fast, the car is definitely too low. Never thought I'd say that.

Also brakes. I have a 164 set up in the shed, but I want something with more bite. Going to take some measurements and see what will fit under my Crown Vic wheels.
 
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