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Looking for ideas: B20 crank sensor mounting

Shinchan

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2018
Location
Lafayette, CO
Trying to wrap up a microsquirt/b20 project. I'm using a missing-tooth wheel bolted to the crank pulley. I originally had my crank sensor mounted 240 degrees from TDC, turns out that that's not a good spot/too far off of TDC.

Looking for ideas on mounts and mount points to get the sensor mounted in the correct range. Unfortunately the ideal spot is right in the center of the fan belt and there just don't seem to be any decent spots that I see to mount a bracket that won't get in the way of the belt or be too close to the pulleys or put the sensor too close to the alternator.

Would love to see how folks have their sensors mounted and if you used a vendor-supplied mount, where did you get it? My fabbing skills are not the best.
 
What's wrong with 240deg? Is the timing not stable during cranking? I'm not sure if it will help, but is 1st Deriv Prediction turned on?

Can you rotate/flip the toothed wheel? How many teeth?

And how about a Tooth Logger log if you're having cranking issues?
 
On consulting with another B20 megasquirt builder, it's probably not the angle, it's either that the sensor is slightly off-center on the wheel or a wiring issue. Back to ye olde drawing board.
 
You can order one from Clewett Engineering and not have to reinvent the wheel.Literally.
 
I made a bracket that bolts to the side of the block just in front of the engine mounts and then to the front of the block under the coolant tube. The bracket fits over the top of the coolant tube and to the front of it where the sensor mounts to it. A pic would be a lot easier so PM me a email if interested in a couple of pics, I have some from when I mocked it up years ago.
 
possibly...

It wont as bolt on solution without modification. There isnt any holes over there. :-P

2 ideas I had before going to the Yoshifab DSM CAS Adapter (for vintage models).

1) take bolt spacing of driver side timing cover bolts and weld up steel adapter plate using 3 of the lowest bolts.

2) use oil pan bolt spacing for the frontmost 4 bolts and make an adapter bracket there.

Where I ended up, spend ~400$ and buy a Yoshi adapter, hi res disc, DSM cas, and mod my board for cam and crank. :nod:
 
A simple bracket with the trigger wheel available from DIY.
The trigger wheel was spot welded to the pulley after confirming it was positioned correctly.
About $30

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