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1967 Amazon Coupe

Volvos pulling Volvos, love it!
<a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/nel6211/media/Georgia%20coupe/bringing%20home%20the%20coupe_zps2uluh8w0.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh77/nel6211/Georgia%20coupe/bringing%20home%20the%20coupe_zps2uluh8w0.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo bringing home the coupe_zps2uluh8w0.jpg"/></a>
 
nel621 said:
Good luck with it and have fun playing around with it.
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I absolutely will, even if it's only 20 minutes at a day like it was today, one step at a time! It is cool to see how capable these cars are, I wouldn't tow anything bigger, but wow did my 245 handle this tow with flying colors!
 
We towed my Bertone from Georgia all the way back to NY with my friend's 745 Turbo.We left NY on a Friday night about 11 pm and were back home on Sunday about 4 pm.
 
nel621 said:
We towed my Bertone from Georgia all the way back to NY with my friend's 745 Turbo.We left NY on a Friday night about 11 pm and were back home on Sunday about 4 pm.
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That's awesome, did you ever question that decision for a second! Or did the car not complain at all?
 
nel621 said:
The wagon handled great. Didn't lose too much gas mileage either. :nod:
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Thats awesome, I thought everyone would give me crap for towing something so big with a car, but I was pleasantly surprised that they were impressed. I was confident going into it though that The car had been extremely stage zeroed mechanically, every brake component has been replaced in the last year along with every suspension component other then rear bushings. It couldn't have been more ready for this task! Now to get this 122 to that point!
 
Glad you got it :) I couldn't make it through all the pages up to the final. I owned a resto business here and made some decent money out of it, fixed up much worse cars than that one on a low budget. Got out of it in 2010 or thereabouts after the crash and I saw cars on craigslist going for what their paintjob cost... Opened a farm instead and haven't looked back, BUT... I still have the nice shop hehe :oogle:

If it were mine, I'd "stage zero" it to a reasonable level and just drive it... I like survivor cars much more than restored cars, says alot about the person driving it too :) Everything is repairable given the time, tools, and desire.... Plus those left coast guys are spoiled with the rust free cars out there in the desert, on the east coast we get what we get and we fix it. I remember the mean old german immigrant up the street came by to complain about my junk yard and what a fool I was to think those cars were repairable... Every one that I got ready for sale I made a point to leave a big black donut at the end of his driveway before they went to their new happy owners :rofl:

If you're gonna start welding in patch panels in the body, do yourself a favor and order a catalog from Eastwood, they have all kinds of nifty tools for that work at prices that I didn't question enough to spend time searching for elsewhere. One VERY common theme I've seen on old classics is when the floor pans start to go, folks use any old patch panel they can trim to fit and then roofing tar the heck out of it in place... works well enough for what they needed I guess, but GAWD, what a pain to clean off so you can get good metal to weld to!
 
Thanks for the reply! I am going to take my time with this thing. Runs and starts every time! I just just did the oil and filter today and a few other things to it! First thing first is a complete brake over hall, I am going to start pricing and sourcing new calipers/ rotors/ lines/master cylinder/brake booster, pads and what ever other brake stuff I am not thinking off. Brakes are bad off. Slave cylinder needs replaced and then I will start thinking about driving it! I took the carpets out today, will leave them out and see if i get any water coming in the car over the next few week before I out it in the garage.

Tires after that and start to drive/fix drive fix! Just bought baby furniture yesterday, that cost about 5 craiglist 240's, so brakes will wait till next week! When floors get done, your mentioned methods will be no where close to this car. I will likely get a shop to do most of that. Floors are not the first priority!
 
I normally have all the brake parts in stock for the original Girling brake system on your 122 including rebuilt brake calipers. I even have braided steel flex hoses.

However, I don't stock the front brake rotors or the rear brake drums as they are quite expensive. If you need to change any of them they are around $300.00 a piece. I strongly suggest you measure them before you proceed. Volvo specs are .455" for minimum thickness for the front rotors, but I don't discard until they are under .440" unless they are warped because they are so expensive. I have seen similar tolerances used on similar thickness brake rotors for other car brands and I have not experienced any problems. There isn't a Volvo spec for the rear brake drums. I used to discard the drums when they were .060" over 9", but after seeing customers PV/122S/1800 drums come into my shop at over .125" over without popping the wheel cylinder pistons, I felt that .090" over was safe and extended the life of the drums and saved the customer some money, for now. I have seen other car brands that allow a 9" drum to be .090" over sized.

Nor do I stock the brake booster. You can buy a new Chinese copy of the updated Lockheed brake booster that is installed on your car for less than the cost of having your old Lockheed properly rebuilt. However, as you can see, someone has used "non-stock" parts to mount the Lockheed brake booster on your 122S. Volvo did update the original Girling brake boosters to the Lockheed, but unfortunately Volvo never made any brackets to mount the Lockheed brake booster. The updated booster did come with some brackets, but they were a pair of generic mounting brackets that probably fit a 1960's British car, but really didn't fit the 122 or the 1800 without modifications or custom fabrication.

I get the feeling you may want to do a mild restoration and an original Girling brake booster with the correct mounting bracket will spruce up the engine compartment a bit.

I can supply a rebuilt Girling brake booster and a good used original booster mounting bracket. You may have to update or replace the brake lines to and from the brake booster.

Below is a picture clipped from an original Volvo owners manual of what the original brake booster and mounting bracket looked like. FYI, out of sheer coincidence, I just installed a rebuilt Girling booster on a customers 1966 Volvo 122 this afternoon and I am about to fabricate new brake lines. If you are interested, I can post some pictures after I am done.
 

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Wow, thank you for your post, i read threw it once, but will have to thoroughly go through it when I am not exhausted. I would absolutely love to see some photos of your customers car, of course if that is ok with them! You should go ahead and update me with a PM and your contact info! I would love to start figuring out a solid plan for the brake job. We all know I am not going to readily find this stuff locally anyway!
 
It just occurred to me that you own and operate High Performance Auto, I still have not forgotten about my powder coated 245 calipers! Looks like I will be doing two brakes job with you!
 
Guilty as charged. FYI, my website, www.hiperformanceautoservice.com, should show just about all of the parts you will need.

I forgot to mention in my previous post about the need for a rear brake drum puller so you can remove the drums safely without damaging them as the drums are expensive.

Of course there is a special tool and my brother, hiperfauto here on Turbobricks and his former partner found the original Volvo tool lacking in longevity and they made their own drum puller which is the one we use still use to this day over 30 years later.

He still makes them so I have a rental tool or you buy 1 out right. The rental fee is $20.00 a month plus shipping or $140.00 plus shipping if you want to buy 1.

There are other drum pullers, but I strongly suggest what ever you use bolts to all 5 wheel studs as opposed to a puller that grabs the outside of the drum. The latter puller usually bends the drum long before it budges it off the tapered axle shaft.

And in case you didn't know, just about all the hardware on your Volvo is either UNC or UNF threads using standard, not metric wrenches, but there are exceptions. For example, all of the female brake/clutch line fittings need metric wrenches even though they have 3/8" x 24 threads. The same is true of the original flex brake and clutch hoses as well as the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinders, but IIRC, some of the clutch hydraulic lines have 7/16" threads.

Let me know if you need some more info and when you are ready to order parts.
 
We will have to talk, and figure a full kit for me to buy! I am contemplating doing the fronts first and the rear drums later!? Not sure that is the best idea!? The PO said he did the rear drums a few years ago, he actually pulled the old ones out of the trunk that day, had then in the box!? But the truth is, who knows when he really did it and what kind of job he did! Who knows what he did or did not replace, if I am going to pull the rear drums apart to check to though then I might as well just replace them and be sure!

A full brake job was the very first thig I did on my 1992 245, pads/rotors/calipers/ hard line and flexible brakes lines too! Did all four corners at ten same time! That was a nightmare trying to get the auto store I used to get the correct stuff I needed!
 
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What seats, which car?

If you are referring to your 122, the Volvo B18 122 catalog doesn't list leather seats, only plastic coated fabric and cloth.
 
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