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AW71 Swap

xDread92x

xDread92x

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Location
NC
Hey All,

My buddy is giving me a nice AW71 with 125K miles for my 92 240.
I don?t have any local help so I got in touch with some transmission shops. Everyone wants $800 to $1000 for just a swap.

Seems a little steep to me. Is there anyone that would be willing to help in any way. I?m in eastern NC.

Other thoughts or insight?

Thanks
 
This replacing the automatic in your car? Just going to the stronger version? It's literally a straight up swap. I would also change all seals while you have the new trans out. Front pump seal and output shaft seal and bushing if needed. New trans mount, and shifter bushings, too.

I found a guy through friends that did the auto trans work for me. He works at home and I still spent $550 with him but it was worth it and every one else wanted the $800 or more you mention. His cost was $300 to take the trans in and out. The extra $250 was for all the other stuff I mentioned along wth the driveshaft bearing and support.
 
Yea I already did my driveshaft bearing support along with shifter bushings and trans mount last year. All I have to do it get the 70 out and the 71 in.

I’m debating on getting some buds to help with the swap. What are some key things to keep in mind during the swap with flexplate, lining up properly, etc.

Thanks
 
Make sure to install the torque converter to the proper depth.

The flywheel has the gap in the holes pointed at the starter at TDC.
 
ZVOLV said:
Make sure to install the torque converter to the proper depth.

The flywheel has the gap in the holes pointed at the starter at TDC.
Click to expand...

^ This! a 1,000,000 times THIS!

And get it up as high on the HF jack stands with 3/4" or 1" plywood pads under he stands, so you'll be able to roll over to get out of there for tools and have space to get it in there properly.
 
When I get the transmission unbolted and start moving it back and down; what am I looking at from there? If not careful, won’t components slide right out? Sorry I’m only familiar with manual set ups.

Thanks
 
Keep the transmission level and nothing will slide out. Make sure you remove the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate and then, push the converter back into the transmission as far as it will go before lowering the transmission. Too many people have removed automatic transmissions with the converter still attached to the flex plate. You risk damaging the converter doing that.
 
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^^ Interesting, when I bought a 71 from a local "enthusiast", the torq converter was still attached to the flywheel (everything appeared in good shape)


edit:

* Should I look for any specific issues in this case ?
 
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Hey All.

I was doing some research and found that for some first timers doing a transmission swap they heard a loud pop while getting the swap in, which resulted in locking of the engine and breaking of the tranny pump if I’m correct? How possible is this and what causes it?

Could someone explain,

Thanks
 
Otto Mattik said:
^^ Interesting, when I bought a 71 from a local "enthusiast", the torq converter was still attached to the flywheel (everything appeared in good shape)


edit:

* Should I look for any specific issues in this case ?
Click to expand...


Hanging the trans in a torque converter is a great way to bind the input shaft in there and break the torque converter or the trans pump.
 
xDread92x said:
So is it best to bolt torque converter up and then put the tranny in??

Thanks
Click to expand...

No. That would damn near guarantee that you will damage the transmission. Install the converter into the transmission. Rotate it while pushing it into the transmission. It will go into the transmission in steps. The last one is when the pump drive lines up with the slot in the end of the converter snout. The converter slides in about an additional1/2-3/4 inch when that happens. When the converter is properly installed the face surface of the converter will be back about 3/4? past the surface of the bell housing that mates with the block surface. Then, it is safe to install the transmission. When the trans is installed, you should still easily be able to turn the converter. You will actually have to pull it slightly forward toward the flex plate when putting the flex plate to converter bolts in.
 
the converter will sink way back down into the bellhousing (or so it will seem), and also stabilize somewhat. It'll still have have some play. best way to seat the thing up hold the snout up to level the converter, and rototate it while rocking it up and down, it'll slide on down in there.

if you can borrow a HF atv jack, that makes a great trans jack, otherwise most folks in driveways wrestle it up on a floor jack and work it on up in there. You want to make sure the converter doesn't slide back out the front while you're doing these things.
 
Poetry

2manyturbos said:
... Install the converter into the transmission. Rotate it while pushing it into the transmission. It will go into the transmission in steps. The last one is when the pump drive lines up with the slot in the end of the converter snout. The converter slides in about an additional1/2-3/4 inch when that happens. When the converter is properly installed the face surface of the converter will be back about 3/4? past the surface of the bell housing that mates with the block surface. Then, it is safe to install the transmission. When the trans is installed, you should still easily be able to turn the converter. You will actually have to pull it slightly forward toward the flex plate when putting the flex plate to converter bolts in.
Click to expand...

linuxman51 said:
the converter will sink way back down into the bellhousing (or so it will seem), and also stabilize somewhat. It'll still have have some play. best way to seat the thing up hold the snout up to level the converter, and rototate it while rocking it up and down, it'll slide on down in there. ...
Click to expand...

No help here from me. Just can't help saying these are the best words I've ever seen describing what I've only done a few times, but found difficult to write about. :)
 
I had a very hard time getting my torque converter to fully seat. It took me 40+ minutes, plus a timeout for excess frustration. All I can say is that if you're not sure it's fully seated, then it isn't. When it seats, the heavens will open up, the angels will sing, and all you've read will make perfect sense.

For the experts - does the transmission need to be in a certain gear, or does rotating the drive shaft flange (in which direction?), help get everything to engage? It sure seemed like my pushing and rotating the converter while wiggling did nothing, until one removal+reinsertion miraculously lined up and seated fully.

Once seated, I ran a strap with a block of wood across the bellhousing to keep the converter in place until final mating.
 
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If you have help, standing it on the output flange end after partially inserting the converter makes it drop right in place when you turn the converter. It just isn’t easy to line everything up with the weight of the converter so far out from what you are trying to line up. I have never had to resort to this method. I know plenty of people who swear by it.
 
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