• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 Amateur Paint

vlvman said:
Photos of the car would help. You may be able to restore the paint and fix problem areas.
Click to expand...

I'll get some decent ones on this thread soon.

I've noticed the unibody paint seems to have held up better then the door, fender or hood paint, for some reason. Maybe it was parked with the rear under some cover or something for years.

Unibody paint still seems to have some clear coat, where the fender, doors and hood (which will be replaced first) seem to be almost flat. Color is currently the Volvo yellow, which to me seems almost cream.
 
cwdodson88 said:
Nope, I work in the driveway or in the dirt. I had to back my car onto the sidewalk to replace my u-joints.

Go to a local storage unit place, ask about a storage unit with power (200.00 per month max)... rent for a month, paint it the right way and you will be happier for longer... Not to mention that you will spend about 700.00 in rattle cans if you go with black... 7.00 per can, 100 or so cans to do the job with enough coverage to get rid of tiger stripes.
Click to expand...

Or do a brush and roller job in the street with boat paint...
 
cwdodson88 said:
Nope, I work in the driveway or in the dirt. I had to back my car onto the sidewalk to replace my u-joints.

Go to a local storage unit place, ask about a storage unit with power (200.00 per month max)... rent for a month, paint it the right way and you will be happier for longer... Not to mention that you will spend about 700.00 in rattle cans if you go with black... 7.00 per can, 100 or so cans to do the job with enough coverage to get rid of tiger stripes.
Click to expand...

Lol, I got shot down on here earlier for suggesting a engine rebuild in a storage unit. Painting in one is kosher?

100 cans?? Really?
 
Redwood Chair said:
Or do a brush and roller job in the street with boat paint...
Click to expand...

^ Perfect solution!

Just buy 3 extra packs of 320, 600, 1000, and 1500 sand paper.

After clearing it use some stepping from 600-2000 and BAM! painted.

This actually works really well if you cant get a booth, or something else to paint in.
 
theknave said:
You think that'll add up to more than $500-ish?

You're not listening, the work is part of the fun/curiosity/learing, lol.


Well a buddy of mine flat-blacked his engine bay. Said it was nice, but didn't hold up to grease/oil. I was wondering if the clear coat would help that scenario. It probably wouldn't be 100% flat after that, but maybe still not high gloss but with more protection?
Click to expand...

Oh, I'm listening.....body work is not fun , (until it's done) and if done correctly you will have a car that you can be proud of and brag about your mad painting skill's.

I don't consider myself a body/paint pro but I did learn a lot on my own with the advice from friend that was a great painter/body man.

Here is a pic of my 945 that was T-boned by a jeep in the driver side starting at the rear door and smashing in the rear quarter panel , car was totaled......not bad for a rookie that has a desire to learn and do it right.



 
theknave said:
Got the grit numbers from here:

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/sandpaperselection.aspx

I do have some body filling I'd like to try.
Click to expand...

As I said, 40 grit is for body work.

Are you doing any actual body work?

If the paint is nasty and needs a respray, 240 followed by 320 should be sufficient.

40 --> 80 --> 120 --> 180 is what you'd do for plastic body filler shaping. 40 grit will cut right through your current paint.
 
theknave said:
Got the grit numbers from here:

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/sandpaperselection.aspx

I do have some body filling I'd like to try.
Click to expand...

They start as rough as #80 for mechanical adhesion, but many times the scratches 'print through' as the paint dries and shrinks showing the surface underneath.

#320 to remove dead clear and #400 or #600 before primer is more like it.

You should read my Lumber Wagon Version VII before you ruin your car with fingernail polish in a can.


theknave said:
Uh, so you're serious?

...same body prep?
Click to expand...


Serious as a heart attack, anything but fingernail polish in a can.

:x:
 
theknave said:
Lol, I got shot down on here earlier for suggesting a engine rebuild in a storage unit. Painting in one is kosher?

100 cans?? Really?
Click to expand...

Black is the hardest color to paint. If you were going with white over a gray or white primer, cut that # in half. But still, its gonna take a bunch and you will need to wet sand after to get rid of the Rhino Liner look.

Flash = cure time between coats. Most urethane's flash time is about 30 min at 70* with 0% humidity.

And rattle canning a car will take 3-4x as long... the spray pattern is only line 3" wide... a spray gun will go to an 8" fan pretty easily
 
cwdodson88 said:
Black is the hardest color to paint. If you were going with white over a gray or white primer, cut that # in half. But still, its gonna take a bunch and you will need to wet sand after to get rid of the Rhino Liner look.

Flash = cure time between coats. Most urethane's flash time is about 30 min at 70* with 0% humidity.

And rattle canning a car will take 3-4x as long... the spray pattern is only line 3" wide... a spray gun will go to an 8" fan pretty easily
Click to expand...

:nod:

400 hours for a $40 paint job with $400 worth of fingernail polish in a can.
 
Dicktater said:
Oh, I'm listening.....body work is not fun , (until it's done) and if done correctly you will have a car that you can be proud of and brag about your mad painting skill's.

I don't consider myself a body/paint pro but I did learn a lot on my own with the advice from friend that was a great painter/body man.

Here is a pic of my 945 that was T-boned by a jeep in the driver side starting at the rear door and smashing in the rear quarter panel , car was totaled......not bad for a rookie that has a desire to learn and do it right.



Click to expand...

Damn! I'm assuming you cut and welded a new piece on there, right?
 
Ursan said:
As I said, 40 grit is for body work.

Are you doing any actual body work?

If the paint is nasty and needs a respray, 240 followed by 320 should be sufficient.

40 --> 80 --> 120 --> 180 is what you'd do for plastic body filler shaping. 40 grit will cut right through your current paint.
Click to expand...

Yep, I would like to use some body filler.
 
theknave said:
Yep, I would like to use some body filler.
Click to expand...

They have bondo that sticks to paint now, no reason to go crazy.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=3098897&postcount=212

Surfbrick brings by some trick bondo that sticks to roughed up [ # 80 grit ] paint,instead of bare metal.

<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/82%20245%20GLT/?action=view&current=82245GLTPaint72.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/82%20245%20GLT/82245GLTPaint72.jpg" border="0" alt="82 245 GLT Paint 72"></a>
Click to expand...

I don't suppose you've had time to look at my project thread yet?

:roll:
 
Redwood Chair said:
Just stop it with that crap :grrr:

I linked him to a gallon of good single stage boat paint for less than $75.00.
Click to expand...

Yeah and I did the same thing with boat paint, but I'm just giving him other options.

I used this paint on my 780

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...6456&keyword=interlux_brightside_marine_paint

It's actually quite decent paint. If it's seawater and gull resistant, then on the street should be a doddle.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=239689
 
Redwood Chair said:
They start as rough as #80 for mechanical adhesion, but many times the scratches 'print through' as the paint dries and shrinks showing the surface underneath.

#320 to remove dead clear and #400 or #600 before primer is more like it.

You should read my Lumber Wagon Version VII before you ruin your car with fingernail polish in a can.





Serious as a heart attack, anything but fingernail polish in a can.

:x:
Click to expand...

Lol, after clicking through that, I know for a very solid fact that I do not have your resources or historical knowledge.

You have a thing for carrying around wood, ya?
 
Redwood Chair said:
They have bondo that sticks to paint now, no reason to go crazy.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=3098897&postcount=212



I don't suppose you've had time to look at my project thread yet?

:roll:
Click to expand...

I think I went through half of it? How many pages are there?? I need to eat something, eventually. :lol: I did get to that image... I was gonna say I might pick up that Fiberall as I did read that other filler absorbs moisture.

But if you're saying I don't have to sand down to the metal then I'm not going to. Might get me one of those yellow cans.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top