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Old 02-22-2017, 12:26 PM   #26
TheLost
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Update on the brake light issue.

When applying the brakes, it lights up, but under normal circumstances (ya know, as a running light) it is dead. Any ideas?
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:08 PM   #27
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Not making contact with the conductor strips. Tweak the tabs on the bulb holder and try again.
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:09 PM   #28
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Rounds werent available on that style of car though. Its like bolting some mustang lights on your escort because you like how they look.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:31 AM   #29
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Not making contact with the conductor strips. Tweak the tabs on the bulb holder and try again.
Huh. Interesting. Do you think it's a specific tab since it's the running light? I'd assume yet.

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Rounds werent available on that style of car though. Its like bolting some mustang lights on your escort because you like how they look.
Right, but no model 240 had this style Rounds. And lots of people put lights on their cars that didn't come standard, that's part of modifying and making a car that's unique to you. You SHOULD add parts if you like the way they look, as long as they don't hinder your vehicle, which in no way will the rounds decrease performance. To each his own.
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Old 02-26-2017, 02:31 PM   #30
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I threw in the new thermo yesterday and it's running right below optemp (good because it's ohio and ohio is cold af right now) so it should be good when the weather gets warmer. Messed with the tabs on the rear light and haven't found anything.

Did up the boost to 15 psi and I'm thoroughly pleased.. Though, with time, expect that number to increase.

Right now, next on the list is to finish up tinkering with the lights, then move to adding a tiny bit of audio equipment and doing some weight reduction around the car to even it back out. Probably look at those Corbeaus for the front to look somewhat OEM or maybe I'll just get Brides.

Oh! And I'm going to reblack all of the trim, as well as fix the matte black trim around the windows.

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Old 02-28-2017, 04:47 PM   #31
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UPDATE: Though the stumbly surging idle was reduced a bit with the right thermo, it's still there. I'm suspecting a small vacuum leak or something along those lines.

Also, fiddled with the brake light tabs more, no dice.
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Old 03-04-2017, 07:48 PM   #32
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Clean the IAC. Check the trailer connector splices for the taillight. Pretty sure I used scotch locks. I typically wouldn't, but I was in a hurry iirc.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:49 PM   #33
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Clean the IAC. Check the trailer connector splices for the taillight. Pretty sure I used scotch locks. I typically wouldn't, but I was in a hurry iirc.
Checked the connector splices, everything seemed fine, so the issue eludes me.

I was having an issue with the radio, which was quickly sorted out, but while disconnecting the battery in the back, I found one of the detachable light housings just chilling out next to the battery. Going to put it (back?) in on the passenger side and see if that might resolve the issue, or replace the driver's side one with this one to see if it's the detachable housing that's the issue. It's been tricky tracking down the issue, to say the least.

I think the stumbly idle is due to a boost/vacuum leak because I started noticing that when I hit boost, it goes up to 15psi where it's set, but then almost immediately drops to 10psi, but the car still pulls fine. Either too much backpressure and the internal wastegate spring is getting goofed, the MBC is going out, or there's a boost leak. I'm going to start with the easiest of the three and pick up some stuff to make a boost leak tester and check that first. If it comes back negative (no leaks), then I get to try out a new MBC or see if a stronger spring in the IW will help. Not really sure, tbh. Aside from these couple hiccups, the car is great. Absolutely in love and can't wait for the next batch of projects (having it freshly cleaned and undercoated for the harsh Ohio weather, have the car resprayed in either the same blue as original, black or the maroon the cars came in originally, and tint applied with 50% in back, 35% on the front two, and MAYBE 10% on the windshield.). Oh, and I changed up the wheels I'll most likely get for it. Maybe go with the old TA GTA wheels in 16x8.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:58 PM   #34
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it goes up to 15psi where it's set, but then almost immediately drops to 10psi, but the car still pulls fine.
#td04lyfe
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:18 PM   #35
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#td04lyfe
That's part of what I was afraid of. I don't really want to have to go with a new boosty-box to deliver stable boost.

Maybe time to invest in a little bigger turbo that can sate my hunger for boost, though.

Also need to weld up a crack I noticed in the DP.
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:58 PM   #36
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That's part of what I was afraid of. I don't really want to have to go with a new boosty-box to deliver stable boost.

Maybe time to invest in a little bigger turbo that can sate my hunger for boost, though.

Also need to weld up a crack I noticed in the DP.
There's nothing inherently wrong with a TD04. That one made 321 lb/ft of torque. I'd put a better cam in it before I swapped the turbo out. But that's just me.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:17 PM   #37
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That's a 15g, right? What actuator is on it?

When I had a 16t with a t3 wastegate actuator, it did a wonderful job of maintaining boost pressure at 15psi, as well as 20psi. I can't imagine the 15g would be all that different.




And yes, cam is a must.
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:12 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by The Full Banana View Post
That's a 15g, right? What actuator is on it?

When I had a 16t with a t3 wastegate actuator, it did a wonderful job of maintaining boost pressure at 15psi, as well as 20psi. I can't imagine the 15g would be all that different.




And yes, cam is a must.
I think it's just a regular 15G actuator. I was going to swap it out at one point, but never did. There's also the possibility that the bracket is flexing some. I think it was just one of the ones made out of a AC compressor bracket.
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Old 04-02-2017, 01:32 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
There's nothing inherently wrong with a TD04. That one made 321 lb/ft of torque. I'd put a better cam in it before I swapped the turbo out. But that's just me.
I want to get a IPD T cam, tbh. That would be a riot, I feel like.

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Originally Posted by The Full Banana View Post
That's a 15g, right? What actuator is on it?

When I had a 16t with a t3 wastegate actuator, it did a wonderful job of maintaining boost pressure at 15psi, as well as 20psi. I can't imagine the 15g would be all that different.

And yes, cam is a must.
If it's a simple actuator swap I'd rather do that. Cheaper and it allows me to buy a T cam from IPD.

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Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
I think it's just a regular 15G actuator. I was going to swap it out at one point, but never did. There's also the possibility that the bracket is flexing some. I think it was just one of the ones made out of a AC compressor bracket.
I can check.

I just need a free weekend, but hey, now that I let go of some exec positions in the organizations I'm in, this should be easier.
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