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Old 04-24-2017, 08:44 PM   #26
whalepirot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aendrody View Post
What do the plugs tell you?
Plugs are near new and slightly light brown.

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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Volvo wires. Do they have a class letter and date?
403 F, from France.

The coolant loss is ended so I adjusted the waste gate longer for later dump, which raised the Boost meter to about 1/5 deflection; still too low. Having the improved compression on #3 helps the engine accelerate below 1500, where the boost creeps on, but it's hardly a screamer! My wife thinks it is too slow for safe entrance onto 50 mph streets.

I changed vacuum ports for CBV control to the lower (slightly larger) of the two adjacent ones pax side, intake. The other is capped with a clamped rubber plug. Using my hand vac, I pumped the CBV open; saw it move. It very slowly lost that pressure. I have no idea if that is normal or indicates a compromised diaphragm. That hose is new. If so, where on earth does one find them parts for the CBV?

I still find no leaks in any hoses and tomorrow, after it cools down, I'll lengthen the wastegate arm another turn. Perhaps it'll get to 1/2, like it used to, with attendant power increase.

Last edited by whalepirot; 04-24-2017 at 08:50 PM..
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
Plugs are near new and slightly light brown.

403 F, from France.

The coolant loss is ended so I adjusted the waste gate longer for later dump, which raised the Boost meter to about 1/5 deflection; still too low. Having the improved compression on #3 helps the engine accelerate below 1500, where the boost creeps on, but it's hardly a screamer! My wife thinks it is too slow for safe entrance onto 50 mph streets.

I changed vacuum ports for CBV control to the lower (slightly larger) of the two adjacent ones pax side, intake. The other is capped with a clamped rubber plug. Using my hand vac, I pumped the CBV open; saw it move. It very slowly lost that pressure. I have no idea if that is normal or indicates a compromised diaphragm. That hose is new. If so, where on earth does one find them parts for the CBV?

I still find no leaks in any hoses and tomorrow, after it cools down, I'll lengthen the wastegate arm another turn. Perhaps it'll get to 1/2, like it used to, with attendant power increase.
I'd guess that the 403 is 4th month of 2003.
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanHillbilly View Post
adjustment screw on the connector side of the housing
that setting requires a gas analyzer but I have the other things; cannot do

Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanHillbilly View Post
fuel pressure test kit
I could do this IF there was a port to connect to. Seems I have to make one due to unique Volvo design.

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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
LH 2.2 is not self learning.
This is a head scratcher. How does the ECU optimize A/F ratio, if it cannot learn? Then, there is the issue of an aging car, as components age and alter that ratio. The ECU must adjust to optimize to maintain emissions, especially for the many years required by law.

After another adjustment of the wastegate ( think it's real close), I drove it some miles today, street and freeway It is improved, except the boost is rather low. I need to reread and understand what can be limiting the boost.

Last edited by whalepirot; 04-25-2017 at 04:59 PM..
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:13 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
I changed vacuum ports for CBV control to the lower (slightly larger) of the two adjacent ones pax side, intake. The other is capped with a clamped rubber plug. Using my hand vac, I pumped the CBV open; saw it move. It very slowly lost that pressure. I have no idea if that is normal or indicates a compromised diaphragm. That hose is new. If so, where on earth does one find them parts for the CBV?
.
The CBV should hold that vacume/pressure . the CBV is a spring loaded valve that is attached to a pressure/vacume chamber. The membrane inside it should hold pressure or vacume. If not it is leaking and not functioning like it should.

What brand/type turbo is on the engine? If it is a mitsubishi tdo4-13c then there are aftermarket upgrade kits available. I once bought one from IPD. The kit came with 3 different rate springs as well.

For other turbo's i have no idea if you can get aftermarket CBV's. But you could make a block-off plate and replace the CBV by a dump-valve . They serve the same purpose.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
that setting requires a gas analyzer but I have the other things; cannot do

I could do this IF there was a port to connect to. Seems I have to make one due to unique Volvo design.

This is a head scratcher. How does the ECU optimize A/F ratio, if it cannot learn? Then, there is the issue of an aging car, as components age and alter that ratio. The ECU must adjust to optimize to maintain emissions, especially for the many years required by law.

After another adjustment of the wastegate ( think it's real close), I drove it some miles today, street and freeway It is improved, except the boost is rather low. I need to reread and understand what can be limiting the boost.
Oxygen sensor. Open and closed loop.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:49 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Janspeed View Post
The CBV should hold that vacume/pressure . the CBV is a spring loaded valve that is attached to a pressure/vacume chamber. The membrane inside it should hold pressure or vacume. If not it is leaking and not functioning like it should.
I think this is the case, as idle vacuum is only 15-16 psi, while 19 +/- is normal on other engines. Using a MAC (quality) gauge, the reading varyied slightly, as did idle speed (750+/-). When the A/C was shut off, the reading increased 1-2 psi, so there is a small leak in that control system. I knew there was a small draw somewhere in those hoses, however, I don't think this causes the turbo problem.

That MAC gauge also showed 1-2 psi boost maximum, when the turbo activated, agreeing with the low dash reading. This, even flooring the throttle at 35mph, while riding the brake or when just accelerating. I find this congruent with your comments about the leaky diaphragm not allowing more boost, plus the fact that there is less now than 2 months ago.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Janspeed View Post
What brand/type turbo is on the engine? If it is a mitsubishi tdo4-13c then there are aftermarket upgrade kits available.
I don't know. I cannot read any label, as one Garrett description says exists. I have looked at the offering from ipd.

I took 3 pics but cannot add them here.

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Originally Posted by Janspeed View Post
For other turbo's i have no idea if you can get aftermarket BV's. But you could make a block-off plate and replace the CBV by a dump-valve . They serve the same purpose.
I read that and ipd also offers a plate. The car is subject to CA smog so the legality of that change is a question.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:27 PM   #32
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IIRC 88-89 Volvo 760 sedans used Garrett turbos and Wagons used Mitsubishi TD05-12b turbos. Not sure of the earlier years.

Maybe this will help you identify your turbo:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...tification.htm
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:24 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
IIRC 88-89 Volvo 760 sedans used Garrett turbos and Wagons used Mitsubishi TD05-12b turbos. Not sure of the earlier years.

Maybe this will help you identify your turbo:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...tification.htm
thanks for that link; useful indeed.

ipd thinks it's a Mitsu, but has nothing. Chatting with their rep, he says the problem is more likely the low vacuum, which should be a 20, but seems worse each day; now at 13.5! I used propane at every junction I could reach and along most hoses, with no change in RPM. ipd said use brake cleaner; same result. While I thought it was the HVAC system, no temporarily disconnected, and after replacing the big how to the aux vacuum pump, after testing them, it's still below 14!

This is a big leak, but the car idles great with no detectable miss. I guess the ECU is masking it with more fuel.

I wish I could find a vac hose diagram, as there's a lot of them and plenty of ports; hence lots of room for errors, mine or another's!

This piece on diagnosis w/ vacuum gauge, is helpful: http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/0...gine-problems/

Last edited by whalepirot; 04-26-2017 at 09:29 PM..
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Old 04-26-2017, 09:28 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
This is a big leak
Or not. Mulling that article, I was drawn to the low reading causes and wondered about late ignition and valve timing, neither of which I had touched.

After checking the spark strength with my tester, all looked good, eliminating poor plug wires and weak spark.

Attached the Snap-On timing light, read idle at 740-770 but the timing was off. Knowing the ECU controls it, I loosened the two small bolts and rotated the distributor back and forth, watching the vacuum drop, then increase, along with changed engine smoothness and RPM. Having tuned an old MB230 engine by ear, including syncing the two carbs, I maxed out the advance, which gave a better sound and smoothness, plus the most vacuum:17. Timing is 9-10 degrees, but I think it needs a bit more. Interesting is the ECU's adjustments to the widely varying distributor position, improving idle, to some degree.

The car has a more power and throttle response seems snappier. Well, sure. If the timing is too retarded, both will suffer. Now I am wondering if whomever replaced this engine, timed the belt close, but off, which would drop vacuum via late valve and spark timing.
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Old 04-26-2017, 09:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
Or not. Mulling that article, I was drawn to the low reading causes and wondered about late ignition and valve timing, neither of which I had touched.

After checking the spark strength with my tester, all looked good, eliminating poor plug wires and weak spark.

Attached the Snap-On timing light, read idle at 740-770 but the timing was off. Knowing the ECU controls it, I loosened the two small bolts and rotated the distributor back and forth, watching the vacuum drop, then increase, along with changed engine smoothness and RPM. Having tuned an old MB230 engine by ear, including syncing the two carbs, I maxed out the advance, which gave a better sound and smoothness, plus the most vacuum:17. Timing is 9-10 degrees, but I think it needs a bit more. Interesting is the ECU's adjustments to the widely varying distributor position, improving idle, to some degree.

The car has a more power and throttle response seems snappier. Well, sure. If the timing is too retarded, both will suffer. Now I am wondering if whomever replaced this engine, timed the belt close, but off, which would drop vacuum via late valve and spark timing.
The timing can be adjusted on the 87 B230FT by moving the distributor. The timing belt timing needs checking. Also the crankshaft pulley outer ring may be slipping resulting in the timing moving around.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:27 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
The timing can be adjusted on the 87 B230FT by moving the distributor. The timing belt timing needs checking. Also the crankshaft pulley outer ring may be slipping resulting in the timing moving around.
I had a slipped outer ring on another car and plan to check the belt timing after I swap in a new CAT.

After a smog pre-check, I learned:
1- NoX was high,
2- HC was high, thought the CAT was not well heatedup, prior,
3- the CAT mounted is aftermarket, which often means cheaper and much shorter life, due partially to less catalyst inside.

My amazing car pal suggested slapping it and listening for any rattles plus flashlighting inside, looking for a lack of hoineycomb. Both existed.

The continuing low vacuum led me to a refresh of causes; restricted exhaust is among the possibles. New CAT coming soon and possibly new O2 sensor. The newish wires on this one lead me to believe it's been changed not too long ago.

Ran out of gas with gauge indicating just barely touching the red. After refill, no start so towed it home. After a nose low sit overnight, it fired right up. I'd feared a ruined pump and got lucky, for a change, given my history with this wagon. No fuel= no lube for pump, and it ran so, for about 5 minutes as we coasted downslope to the next station.
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:51 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
I had a slipped outer ring on another car and plan to check the belt timing after I swap in a new CAT.

After a smog pre-check, I learned:
1- NoX was high,
2- HC was high, thought the CAT was not well heatedup, prior,
3- the CAT mounted is aftermarket, which often means cheaper and much shorter life, due partially to less catalyst inside.

My amazing car pal suggested slapping it and listening for any rattles plus flashlighting inside, looking for a lack of hoineycomb. Both existed.

The continuing low vacuum led me to a refresh of causes; restricted exhaust is among the possibles. New CAT coming soon and possibly new O2 sensor. The newish wires on this one lead me to believe it's been changed not too long ago.

Ran out of gas with gauge indicating just barely touching the red. After refill, no start so towed it home. After a nose low sit overnight, it fired right up. I'd feared a ruined pump and got lucky, for a change, given my history with this wagon. No fuel= no lube for pump, and it ran so, for about 5 minutes as we coasted downslope to the next station.
Less than 1/4 tank of fuel usually results in an overheated pump.
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Old 05-02-2017, 08:51 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Less than 1/4 tank of fuel usually results in an overheated pump.
So far, so good, but for a battery on its last legs.

Been waiting for 5 days for a reply from volvowebparts place about CA legality of the catalytic converter they sell as OEM replacement. Gee, that place is screwed up (from my dealings with them).
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:38 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
So far, so good, but for a battery on its last legs.

Been waiting for 5 days for a reply from volvowebparts place about CA legality of the catalytic converter they sell as OEM replacement. Gee, that place is screwed up (from my dealings with them).
Three-way catalytic converter:
Volvo Part number 1326481. But, Bosal 099-941 not legal for sale in California. What brand of converter did you ask about? Most of this info is available.

Volvo 1326481 has been replaced by 8602955 $558.22

Magnaflow 23949 is not legal for CA.


Benchmark D-193-86 is direct fit and 50 state legal.

You may have to buy a universal CARB compliant catalytic converter.

D-193-86 is the CARB EO number.

Last edited by lummert; 05-02-2017 at 10:10 PM..
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Old 05-03-2017, 01:10 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Three-way catalytic converter:
Volvo Part number 1326481. But, Bosal 099-941 not legal for sale in California. What brand of converter did you ask about? Most of this info is available.

Volvo 1326481 has been replaced by 8602955 $558.22

Magnaflow 23949 is not legal for CA.


Benchmark D-193-86 is direct fit and 50 state legal.

You may have to buy a universal CARB compliant catalytic converter.

D-193-86 is the CARB EO number.
I checked ipd, FCP RockAuto, VolvoWorld and NAPA. Bosal is not okay, and some MagnaFlows are approved. VW shows a 4605, but has no comments and searches were of no help to find the manufacturer. ipd will not ship theirs, a Bosal, to CA and suggested FCP.

IIRC, FCP and NAPA offer legal cats, for $50-60 more than VW's. NAPA's looks like a rebranded Bosal and, sadly, they're earning a reputation here of lesser quality than what built their brand. As a customer of all those places with typically excellent e-commerce, VW is many steps below the others, sadly. The genuine Volvo cats are the most expensive which so far, leads me to FCP, My concern with virtually all aftermarket versions, is minimal catalyst, w/short life a result; a big drawback. MagnaFlow has a good reputation and is local, but their specialty is performance (low restriction) which means minimal catalyst. They vend approved and non versions. That stuff is pricey, so one might get what is paid for with costlier choices. Some shops weld 'illegal' cats onto the stock flanged pipe, which has the smog cert stick-on. Experienced testers know an aftermarket regardless.

Appreciate the leads, which I'll shop.
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Old 05-03-2017, 03:46 AM   #41
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Does your cat have missing honeycomb?

Forget the OEM or universal cat. Use the CARB website and figure out which cats with EO numbers are certified for use on your car. Don't ever stray from this!
A cheaper, but EO numbered cat will probably last you a few years and get you past smog a few times. Don't expect the world of it, but remember, you can can practically buy 2-3 Magnaflows for the price of an OEM.

Might want to quickly summarize what's transpired with your ride and what's wrong. Kinda hard to follow... Sounds like you have a leaking CBV. Look for a flat area (~1.5"x0.75") near the intake of the turbo. Might be covered in thick icky black crap. Should be an ID plate underneath if it's a Mitsubishi type turbo.
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Old 05-03-2017, 02:20 PM   #42
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Thanks for the input, and yes, tis been a few months of this then that, starting with a new engine harness, which was "all it needs". NOT! Sorry, perhaps not quick.

Dave Barton's Dutch-sourced harness and support is awesome and reasonably priced, but after it was in, the car wouldn't start. Fuel pumps ran, but I found no spark at plugs. With guidance mostly from the FAQs, I changed the ignition module on the L inner underhood wall. Nope.

No fire from coil, so after two other coils and a complete bypass of any car control of it, a new coil got spark to the cap, but nothing out to the wires, despite those new cap/rotor parts. Plug wires looked excellent but new cap/rotor did the trick to start the car, but I found the warmed-up power to be dismal, with all other driving aspects quite good, IF seemingly low on boost and low vacuum.

Cooled turbo showed easy spinning and no detectable play.

The pro who knows this 765T said the AAM was dying, 'cause the engine quit when it was unplugged, despite voltage variance with varied airflow as I revved the engine. The replacement changed the running characteristics, but did not solve any other issues. He got it to backfire, which blew the brake booster elbow apart. That part was changed.

Only very minor vacuum leaks fixed after a pricey smoke check. Also fan clutch was reported weak. After a very warm indication a few days later, a new tropical Aisen went in. The car stills runs just above 1/2 gauge, but there is no more coolant loss.

R&R of intercooler and thorough degrease and flush removed very little crud, similar to what I found in an earlier boost hoses look for oil. Still no detectable boost escaping from those hoses which appear intact and firmly clamped.

Adjusted the wastegate arm, both ways, with no betterment in boost. Reviewing the old school vacuum troubleshooting chart had me check ignition timing, which seemed close to spec. Rotation to max, improved acceleration and vacuum with no pinging or knock. That sensor tested high resistance, and was cleaned prior to reinstall.

A pretest for smog, indicated the Calif, sticker, and probably a bad cat. As earlier stated, it rattled when slapped and a flashlight revealed comb material had partially melted and was mostly lying in pieces inside the housing, all removed, but that explained the normal temperature rise between its in/out pipes. There was some catalyst operation, but not enough to pass muster. I was unwilling to drill test holes fore/aft of the cat for pressure differential check.

The car drives quite well, otherwise. The amateur/hack aftermarket radio install by the PO is now done properly and the replacement "proper" Chinese power antenna does NOT fit a wagon, despite all eBay listings' assertions. I repaired someone's erroneous wiring of that switch and circuit and plan a new flat antenna.

Many red plastic interior parts fixed or replaced; power seat operation fixed.

I think the center driveshaft support has too much play; on the to-do list./ Also on that list is a proper redo of some vacuum lines, particularly the HVAC feed, which is now tied into the 1/2" hose between IAC and vac pump, leaving a capped intake port (noticed by the smog tech). There is a small leak somewhere in that circuit, either cruise control or underdash pedal 'switch' or HVAC actuator.

Mulling the value of ipd's (on sale) F/R sway bars, recalling the driving joy of an earlier 245 brick, so fitted.

Have no cat; will shop!

Last edited by whalepirot; 05-03-2017 at 02:29 PM..
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:07 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
Thanks for the input, and yes, tis been a few months of this then that, starting with a new engine harness, which was "all it needs". NOT! Sorry, perhaps not quick.

Dave Barton's Dutch-sourced harness and support is awesome and reasonably priced, but after it was in, the car wouldn't start. Fuel pumps ran, but I found no spark at plugs. With guidance mostly from the FAQs, I changed the ignition module on the L inner underhood wall. Nope.

No fire from coil, so after two other coils and a complete bypass of any car control of it, a new coil got spark to the cap, but nothing out to the wires, despite those new cap/rotor parts. Plug wires looked excellent but new cap/rotor did the trick to start the car, but I found the warmed-up power to be dismal, with all other driving aspects quite good, IF seemingly low on boost and low vacuum.

Cooled turbo showed easy spinning and no detectable play.

The pro who knows this 765T said the AAM was dying, 'cause the engine quit when it was unplugged, despite voltage variance with varied airflow as I revved the engine. The replacement changed the running characteristics, but did not solve any other issues. He got it to backfire, which blew the brake booster elbow apart. That part was changed.

Only very minor vacuum leaks fixed after a pricey smoke check. Also fan clutch was reported weak. After a very warm indication a few days later, a new tropical Aisen went in. The car stills runs just above 1/2 gauge, but there is no more coolant loss.

R&R of intercooler and thorough degrease and flush removed very little crud, similar to what I found in an earlier boost hoses look for oil. Still no detectable boost escaping from those hoses which appear intact and firmly clamped.

Adjusted the wastegate arm, both ways, with no betterment in boost. Reviewing the old school vacuum troubleshooting chart had me check ignition timing, which seemed close to spec. Rotation to max, improved acceleration and vacuum with no pinging or knock. That sensor tested high resistance, and was cleaned prior to reinstall.

A pretest for smog, indicated the Calif, sticker, and probably a bad cat. As earlier stated, it rattled when slapped and a flashlight revealed comb material had partially melted and was mostly lying in pieces inside the housing, all removed, but that explained the normal temperature rise between its in/out pipes. There was some catalyst operation, but not enough to pass muster. I was unwilling to drill test holes fore/aft of the cat for pressure differential check.

The car drives quite well, otherwise. The amateur/hack aftermarket radio install by the PO is now done properly and the replacement "proper" Chinese power antenna does NOT fit a wagon, despite all eBay listings' assertions. I repaired someone's erroneous wiring of that switch and circuit and plan a new flat antenna.

Many red plastic interior parts fixed or replaced; power seat operation fixed.

I think the center driveshaft support has too much play; on the to-do list./ Also on that list is a proper redo of some vacuum lines, particularly the HVAC feed, which is now tied into the 1/2" hose between IAC and vac pump, leaving a capped intake port (noticed by the smog tech). There is a small leak somewhere in that circuit, either cruise control or underdash pedal 'switch' or HVAC actuator.

Mulling the value of ipd's (on sale) F/R sway bars, recalling the driving joy of an earlier 245 brick, so fitted.

Have no cat; will shop!
In regard to the sway bars your 87 760 should have 21 mm front and 19 mm rear sway bars if it's a sedan. Leave the rear as is and swap in a 24 mm front bar and mounts from a 92-94 960 sedan.
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:36 PM   #44
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In regard to the sway bars your 87 760 should have 21 mm front and 19 mm rear sway bars if it's a sedan. Leave the rear as is and swap in a 24 mm front bar and mounts from a 92-94 960 sedan.
Nah, tis a wagon with only F sway bar.

Thanks.
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:51 PM   #45
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1987 760 Turbo has 19 mm rear sway bar. Other sedans have 16 mm rear sway bar. 19 mm rear with a 24 mm front is plenty for my 88 765 Turbo.
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Old 05-05-2017, 03:13 AM   #46
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Seems like you're not getting quality advice from your locals.

Forget bars, braces, upgrades, etc. Did you get the coil thing fixed?

As for the cat, just FYI, the Magnaflow EO numbered cat is not a drop in fit. I think it had 2 straight ends when i bought it. As i remember, the factory cat uses a sealing ring, thus requiring a bevel on the ends of the cat.
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:18 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by gottarollwithit View Post
Seems like you're not getting quality advice from your locals.
Agreed; not a happy lesson.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gottarollwithit View Post
Forget bars, braces, upgrades, etc. Did you get the coil thing fixed?
Not only that, I feel I got ahead of myself by ordering the cat from FCP, which won't even leave the supplier until 4/12. Then, the car was running rather well.

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Originally Posted by gottarollwithit View Post
FYI, the Magnaflow EO numbered cat is not a drop in fit. I think it had 2 straight ends when i bought it. As i remember, the factory cat uses a sealing ring, thus requiring a bevel on the ends of the cat.
That's what the illustrations show and part of why I ordered the other. What appears an identical cat to the EO MagnaFlow, is half its price. That's pricey for an EO tag!

As for the 'coil' or whatever demon is tormenting me: I worked through the ignition section (again) of the pdf, 740 No Start. I can smell fuel with no spark.

In the course of the above, the coil, Power Module and ballast resistors were unplugged as directed. I could find neither a failure of any test nor any 100% agreement, but when I had all reconnected, the engine started! Say what? Okay, it ran for about 20 seconds, then died; would not restart. The only components not replaced are the Hall sensor, which those tests say operates the fuel pump via the relay, and the ECU.

It seems a reboot of something got it running, then slowly killed it. I pulled the ECU and can smell no 'burnt' aroma, but didn't open it, as if a visual will tell me more than a smell, except in the case of a huge failure.
Short answer: no, the 'coil' issue remains. I've briefly searched for a replacement, with many on that auction site, but few have any warranty.

Last edited by whalepirot; 05-10-2017 at 01:41 PM..
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Old 05-10-2017, 01:41 PM   #48
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A concern I have is the attempt to regen the battery, boosts, etc. over three days. I may have seen a little over 16vdc on the charger, which may have damaged some electronics, but after it started that fear abated.

The PO stated the car would run for 20 minutes, then die, so that may still be an unfound and unaddressed issue..
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Old 05-10-2017, 03:07 PM   #49
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One thing I forgot to mention. Your car may have a boost pressure over pressure switch. I had issues with my 88 765 Turbo that ended up being caused by poor connection at this switch. I thought the issue was the fuel pump relay, tried 3 different relays with same result. On my 88 765 this switch is located on or near the coolant reservoir.

Last edited by lummert; 05-10-2017 at 11:26 PM..
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:11 PM   #50
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I wondered about that device some time ago, then got lost in the rest.

I looked and looked for that device, and only found it on the schematic, with blue and yellow-red wires as clues; not near the reservoir or where the Haybes shows it L-R engine compartment,either.

The only wires near the reservoir are test points. Grrrr.

I did find a shabby vacuum line near the turbo, going from the controller somewhere else down there. Gotta do some disassembly to see and change it. Crappy line might be why the boost was degrading. I need to redo, properly, another VAC line or two, that someone altered.

Then again, with no start it matters little, just yet.
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