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Vince's '89 244tic sleeper

Well.. I finally got my A cam back into the car this weekend after sending it off to have it graphed at Scotts shop out in the PNW.. (Full camshaft stats thread)

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I switched back to re-test and solidify in my mind some of my theories on cam selection.. Mostly dealing with overlap this time.. The K is an awesome cam, dont get me wrong.. But it's got it's downfalls. I had it paired to a 13c for awhile this summer while my GT-35 was broken just before I got the T04S 60-1 and found that it really really hates a restrictive turbine.. REALLY. Swapped it out for T just for giggles and my car stopped loping, was easier to start off.. but it hated life above 3500rpm. I'd bought the A and K together but I'd never driven the A so I threw it in to do some official testing.. It turned out to be my favorite, and it actually kinda got along with the 13g for awhile (didn't get compressor choke as badly)

Now that I've got a correctly sized turbine housing and wheel choosing a cam is quite easy.. Once I put the B250FT back in the car I'll have upgraded to under the bucket shims in the head and I'll probably go to something K16 or larger with 46/40 valves.. I haven't done any rocket science research but I'd like to roll out atleast 350whp by next summer.

So when I pulled the K out and swapped in the A, I noticed some space between my manifold and turbo and one of the studs was loose.. Went ahead and pulled the downpipe and the turbo (thank GOD for V-bands) Found that the manifold was warping again so I went ahead and yanked it before it destroyed another good turbine housing.. After I got it on the bench I realized it had some horriffic cracks AGIAN, not to mention one of the M10 1.5 studs I'd upgraded to snapped off below the surface of the face.. So the whole thing is in the trash right now. I'd prepped up another 90+ to go on the 944SE so I could run a T-3/T-4.. That got stolen, it's being used on the race car until I can build up a turbo header for it..

I also fixed the Innovate and got the sensor back into the exhaust stream.. O2 sensor thread chasers can be a life saver.. Dont do a O2 job without one unless you're welding in a new bung. Did some datalog sessions and found out I'd added a lil too much fuel to my maps when I put on the T04S.. but it was mainly for headroom since I was running blind without any O2 sensor for the last few months now.. Just monitoring the Knock sensor which hasn't triggered an event to pull timing back in forever (good news) But then again with AFR's of 11.5:1 under boost.. why would it!?:-P

Bad news is I got a ticket coming home from work Saturday night about 3am on 95north.. Doing 67mph in the middle lane with NOBODY around.. State trooper says he heard my car over his radio heater and scanner from the right shoulder so he pulled me over and gave me a ticket for improper exhaust.. I find that hard to contest since the car is loud.. but only on the highway.. I guess he was trying to make his quota.. Unfortunately he destroyed my Double shift pay 5pm-2am in about ten minutes. I dont really see that as protecting and serving.. More so just picking on people out trying to make an honest living.:grrr:
 
I am.. Ordered one of these yesterday.. Gonna stuff it with steel wool between the chambers.. I can have it on the car in 20 minutes.. no welding.. Slips right into where my 3bolt header collector is.
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Tore the Borg Warner T-5 down today, found 2nd gear, its blocker and the slider pretty fubard.. I'm debating buying another or waiting until Saturday when I can go pick up another core from Rob in Dc. I also took a peek inside my last M47 just to see how they compare and I wasn't really surprised to see why our boxes fail so often.. Small width gears, mainshaft to countershaft spacing and lack of good synchro blocker ring friction material.
 
If I don't do it.. Who will?

I got a third T-5 from Rob via Lawrence (thanks Lawrence) So hopefully I'll have enough parts to put one good box together for my work truck and I'll probably buy a 99-04 T-5 from a V6 for my 244 since it doesn't need a speedo drive and my pickup does.

Lately the car has been running quite well and I'd gotten a good fuel map to work well with the big compressor.. Turned the boost up to about 21-23.. Shredded a Driveshaft Flex coupler disc.. It was fun while it lasted though. Now I'm gonna go drift in the snow with a different busted guibo..
 
yee haw.
Hey Vince, not sure if you have tried to mount the guibo "the other way". I wore out a couple of them pretty quick until I reversed the guibo. there are some thin areas, and some thick areas. I think you want the driveline torque to compress the thick areas and stretch the thin. I changed mine from one way to the other and haven't killed a guibo since.
 
Naah.. It was on correctly.. it pushed the metal bushes through the thick part until the driveshaft bolts were being driven by the edge of the tailshaft flange.. The last one I killed because I didn't put the alignment flange into the driveshaft after installing the guibo.
 
So last week I tore Robs old T-5 down and found that he'd busted one of the thick steel stops on the shift rail in the case cover.. which let the shift fork for third destroy itself on the slider ripping the bevel outta the shift fork and leaving a mess of bassboat metallic atf on my teardown table. Third gear will need replacement as well as the shift fork and possibly second gear.

Also got my World Class adapter kit from Dale.. pretty trick.. uses a CNC'd input shaft bearing retainer and the stock throwout bearing slider.. I'll post pics later..

My solid underdrive crank pulley also came in.. Two grooves (alternator only) and no EDIS adapter.. STUPID light.. I reccomend one of these for anyone building up a serious 350+HP redblock build.. If you're going through the trouble of lightening your internals it's a good idea to shave some weight off the snout of the crankshaft.. and save your alternator and water pump if you're turning 6-6500rpm on a regular basis.

Hopefully today or tomorrow I'll make it up to MD and pickup some more T-5 cores I found.. They're from V6 cars but they have pretty low miles and they dont have a speedo drive, which I dont need.. All that's required is swapping the input shafts for a V8 unit..

I'll probably order a new clutch disc also.. Can't decide if I'm gonna keep the kevlar sprung setup I have or go to a 6 button.. I'll probably keep the Kevlar friction material as I drive the car on the street alot.. and the pressure plate seems to be stout enough to hold.. Also gotta pull the G80 outta the 940 in the yard to throw in the diff for this summer.. I'd like to get the car prepped to where I feel comfortable not having to trailer it to the track.. Then I'll trailer it to the track and beat it like it stole something.;-)
 
Last night I finally got around to pulling a G80 out of a 940 in the back yard.. I've got it on the teardown table right behind ZVolvo's transmission.. Hopefully if I get some time this week I'll break it down, clean it up, modify the flyweight and get it reassembled..
My work truck kinda jumped in line in front of my 244 getting a T-5.. So that's in the shop being fitted for a T-5 and I'm sending off my 390 block to the machine shop to rebuild for replacement of the tired old 360. After my work truck is back up and running I'll tear back into the 240. I'd like to have the Trans, driveshaft and G80 in by late May or early June.. so I can get back to drag racing.. 5 years ago I worked at a drag strip and I got pretty good at launching my car... yeah.. all them skills is gone! When you run the tree every Fri Sat & Sunday nights you get a real good feel for when the lights hit, However I haven't been to the strip in atleast 2 years.. I've definitely got the bug.
 
Dyno numbers from Saturday were pretty disappointing, (220/220) Then again I've been throwing parts at the car for the past 4 years and haven't dyno'd it once, nor have I setup my innovate software on my new laptop.. I'm kinda waiting to tune on the built block and head with some good manifolds.. Hopefully once I get some time I'll tune it one night when I dont have 30 people asking me questions and offering bad advice.

Well I got the modded G80 in the car today.. The hardest part was the time consuming job of trimming 1/4" off the passenger side axle.. It took me a good 20 minutes with a pneumatic die grinder and a carbon cutoff wheel.. I cut the tone ring down to 12 teeth and whacked the counterweight off the rachet.. I kept the 3.73:1 R&P. And I also replaced my parking brake shoes and all of the hardware (nice tight handbrake now)..

Took it out after it rained and almost sh!t my pants.. Took it out on some dirt logging 0roads to get a feel for it, feels good. Very impressed with how balanced the car feels now coming out of corners. I'm very glad I didn't install that welded diff.


Now I've gotta have a driveshaft made up for my T-5 and keep working towards the G-force gear kit I've been looking at so I can get my drivetrain finished up..

Then I've gotta drill my built block for squirters and order the parts to build up another head with under bucket shims, 44/40 valves, custom billet cam.. Intake and exhaust manifolds are in the works as well.. Intakes will probably be out first.. I'll probably make 6 and sell 4.. Turbo headers will be top mounted mild steel but a little further back than a Proturbo.. and with thicker flanges. I'd like to make 8 turbo headers and sell 6.. Its taking awhile to design because I'm trying to make them so the Ford guys running 8v heads can run them as well.
 
i think the k cam is bad for your tune, honestly.

she'll be interesting to get on the dyno....i personally think we should try to blow up whats in there now in a quest for power (maybe wait til after carlisle?), because i'd rather blow a junkyard motor/head than a built one.

why 44/40 valves? new seats ftl
 
News flash.. I've got a lot of money in my current head and I'm not inviting that effin kool-aid dude over to my engine bay.. Why dont you blow up your own car on a quest for power? Squirter blocks are cheap not free Billy.
 
Billeee's car don't run. Maybe some dynomite can be used to blow it up instead. Or just make it run...it's not hard.
 
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