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Switching to synthetic? 200,000+ mile 745 turbo?

At THIS point or mileage there's just one word: da fuq?

Everything is relative and everything is in a certain context....aside from spending more money, what does the Oh Pea think he is going to gain using synthetic over a current excellent dino oil like RotellaT?

Multiple choice since this was posed as a question

Compared to running an excellent dino oil such as ________________, by using synthectic I expect to get:


a) sweet fawk all
b) a big fat nuthin
c) fufill a fantasy dream
d) the adulation and admiration of the gathered multitudes

Mods could make this into a Pole.

Or even a POLL.
 
One reason that I like synthetic is that I can go 10K on an oil change vs. 5K, so it's really cheaper.
 
John V said:
At THIS point or mileage there's just one word: da fuq?

Everything is relative and everything is in a certain context....aside from spending more money, what does the Oh Pea think he is going to gain using synthetic over a current excellent dino oil like RotellaT?

Multiple choice since this was posed as a question

Compared to running an excellent dino oil such as ________________, by using synthectic I expect to get:


a) sweet fawk all
b) a big fat nuthin
c) fufill a fantasy dream
d) the adulation and admiration of the gathered multitudes

Mods could make this into a Pole.

Or even a POLL.
Click to expand...

I'll take door # e) Alex

e) a trip to Costco for some ~$6 / qt 10-40 Mobil 1, and all of the above.
 
Motor oil is like underwear. As long as its clean , who gives a shi<t>t what it is. I shop for both at Walmart.
 
Wren said:
One reason that I like synthetic is that I can go 10K on an oil change vs. 5K, so it's really cheaper.
Click to expand...

Bingo. Unless of course you run a dirty old Volvo motor with who knows how many miles on it. Then you still need to change the oil when it looks like crap and that will probably be well before 10,000 miles. But on my other car I often do 10,000 mile intervals without issue.
 
coonmanx said:
Bingo. Unless of course you run a dirty old Volvo motor with who knows how many miles on it. Then you still need to change the oil when it looks like crap and that will probably be well before 10,000 miles. But on my other car I often do 10,000 mile intervals without issue.
Click to expand...

Let's see if we can use some logic rather then use knee jerk repetition of ad copy.

IF we agree that every time they do a new API rating it reflects a newer harder standard to be met

IF we reflect that API ratings have continually gone up periodically

IF we know that the typical car made it to 1000 or 200K miles with sporadic oil changes and much of it was earlier oil with earlier API ratings

THEN why did OEMs have 6000 to 7500 mile oil change intervals specified in their manuals?

The "change your oil every 2500 or 3000 miles " was bullsh1t bought hook lie and sinker spread by Big Oil to drive business to their corporate owned and extreme franchises...and anybody with brains knew that---because the OEM manufacturers---who want a happy customer , were recommending twice that.

The interval should be dependent on usage..nothing else..
 
Eh, and time. Oils break down without being used much. The whole 6 months thing is mostly true. Something something something additives breaking down,something something I can't remember why.
 
Canadan said:
Eh, and time. Oils break down without being used much. The whole 6 months thing is mostly true. Something something something additives breaking down,something something I can't remember why.
Click to expand...

No, they really don't. Just ask the guys with show cars that get a change every 5 years based on mileage. Oil is packed with additives to resist oxidation. Some guys recently did an analysis on some 20 year old oil that was pulled from the shelf, then put it in the car and ran it for 5000 miles and had an analysis done on the result. In both cases it looked like any other simarly spec ed oil. No age related issues.

Personally I use Mobil-1 5w30 in my tractor. It has about 460,000km on it currently. I do this because it's available everywhere, I pick up a bottle on special once a year and if I run it out to 12,000km or 18months it's all good. The Castrol mineral oil I used before used to come out like glue if I got close to those sort of numbers and I just can't be arsed changing it more than once a year. That makes it worth it to me to pay the extra $50 for the oil.

Use whatever works for you and be happy. There is a lot of mythology and mystical hand waving around oil, most of it bull****.
 
John V said:
.

The "change your oil every 2500 or 3000 miles " was bullsh1t bought hook lie and sinker spread by Big Oil to drive business to their corporate owned and extreme franchises...and anybody with brains knew that---because the OEM manufacturers---who want a happy customer , were recommending twice that.

The interval should be dependent on usage..nothing else..
Click to expand...

Unless you had one of those wonderful 426 Hemi with dual quads pouring premium down the cylinder walls.:-P

When we raced a stock truck [off road] that rules required a radiator be up front, we knew it was going to overheat at some point because of mud or damage, so we ran synthetic. The gauge only went to 350, and it pegged on several occasions. Motor survived. When torn down to check there was no coking in the motor, and that would not be the case with dino oil at those temps.

Switched classes to Supertruck running a 700ish hp motor, but with the radiator protected in the back, and at the suggestion of our motor man went with Rotella. This truck was not going to see the same high temps and he felt it was a better lubrication. This is a $40K motor, so we would have done what was best no matter the cost.

So..... if your cooling system is up to snuff, and you are not racing in the 1000, just stick with Dino is my opinion. Syn will leak a lot more than Dino, cost is more. Changing your oil every 10K on a motor that old does not sound like a good scenario to me.

The new cars moniter the driving conditions and tell you when to change oil based on what it sees for fuel usage, gear selection and miles. Kind of like John said, but a no brainer. I must be getting old because I always get the max interval on my 14 Ford.

I am a grandpa you know......
 
Canadan said:
Eh, and time. Oils break down without being used much. The whole 6 months thing is mostly true. Something something something additives breaking down,something something I can't remember why.
Click to expand...

Nope it's just advertising repeated 10,000 and then your normal American, that is to say normal conservative, conventional and consumer, believes and repeats..There is some of what's called molecular shearing..Modern base oils get all kinds of additives "hung onto' the CHON molecules and in the words or the head of the Mobil-1 development team, my old customer Harry Gleim, "they're pretty big molecules" and
"they literally get chopped up sometimes"...but harly ever in an engine...

The added on stuff getting chopped off doesn't mean its a puddle of poo...They start with a very good "base stock"...

What kills oil is primarily--in normal use---dilution (other llighter hydrocarbons aka gasoline and acids andf poo from condensation..and THAT depends on many factors like dew point and relative humidity and frequency of use, and duration of use...like mainly ya know lazy fat people that fire up the car to drive 3 doors down cuase its too far to waddle, and shut it down.

Time alone is unimportant..

Ever see a "sell by" date on a quart of erl?

Condensation, killer of oils
Condescension, killer of dialog.
 
John V said:
Nope it's just advertising repeated 10,000 and then your normal American, that is to say normal conservative, conventional and consumer, believes and repeats..There is some of what's called molecular shearing..Modern base oils get all kinds of additives "hung onto' the CHON molecules and in the words or the head of the Mobil-1 development team, my old customer Harry Gleim, "they're pretty big molecules" and
"they literally get chopped up sometimes"...but harly ever in an engine...

The added on stuff getting chopped off doesn't mean its a puddle of poo...They start with a very good "base stock"...

What kills oil is primarily--in normal use---dilution (other llighter hydrocarbons aka gasoline and acids andf poo from condensation..and THAT depends on many factors like dew point and relative humidity and frequency of use, and duration of use...like mainly ya know lazy fat people that fire up the car to drive 3 doors down cuase its too far to waddle, and shut it down.

Time alone is unimportant..

Ever see a "sell by" date on a quart of erl?

Condensation, killer of oils
Condescension, killer of dialog.
Click to expand...

CHON? You might be confused. They were really only CHON when they roamed the Earth

If oil ages, what the hell is is doing in the ground first?
 
I can tell you that my Escort ZX2 sees regular 10,000 mile oil changes and the stuff comes out looking fine. Now I'm not sending it out to a lab to get analyzed but for me it works well. I can always do one a few thousand miles sooner but 10,000 just seems like a nice number. Granted, I can put that many miles on the car in just over three months time.
 
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