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Old 11-09-2017, 01:57 PM   #1
EivlEvo
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Default Going to drop T5 trans this weekend. Split box and bell?

Squad... this weekend I'll go about pulling my daggone T5 AGAIN so I can put my ring gear on the flywheel

Anybody have thoughts on trying to pull it with the bell housing split from the case (since deeworks adapter makes this possible now)?

Is this easier or am I just adding extra complexity?
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:00 PM   #2
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Also... I'm wondering about needing to drain the fluid. I can't think of a way to drop and install WITHOUT draining the fluid because of the funny angles... but worth asking I suppose. I assume it would all just leak out of the tailshaft no?
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:01 PM   #3
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That's exactly what I do, take off the 4 large bolts holding the box to the bell, pull the trans out. Then, if I need to, take off the bellhousing without the slightest bit of struggle getting to those bolts. I bought a silly long extension just to get those from behind the trans, but never use it anymore.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:03 PM   #4
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PS: If you pull the driveshaft, you're going to drain the fluid, whether or not you want to. They sell little sleeves that you can quickly slide onto the end after you pull the slip joint out. One thing I've done before when feeling lazy is to unbolt the DS from the rear axle, and keep it on the trans as I pull it out and lay it on the floor. Keeps the fluid in.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:05 PM   #5
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That's always how I pull my T5. I think it's easier than trying to reach all the bolts and wrangle the bellhousing past the trans tunnel and exhaust.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:26 PM   #6
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I always pull the trans first, then the bell... so much easier.

To keep fluid from leaking out, either get a spare slip-joint to leave in there, or leave the driveshaft inserted. Leaving the DS is a bit cumbersome, but it saves $10-30 in ATF.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:41 PM   #7
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i would also take this time to dial indicate the bellhousing, while you got it apart. in my buddies Camaro we found it off by. 60 thousands. it was causing a vibration and a lot of people on here are bitching about, vibration, chatter, hard shifting, ect,.i did the one in my super sport and it was rite on. you can buy adjustable dowels to fix the alignment, but yes septate the two much much easier to work on
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:08 PM   #8
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Also a good time to check the input shaft play and reshim if needed. The t5 I bought was like .050" and the guy wondered why it sounded like a skateboard and ate bearings like crazy. I guess thats what I get for a $50 dogbox. But a $30 bearing and shim set and dialed it down to .0025-.003"
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:28 PM   #9
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i would also take this time to dial indicate the bellhousing, while you got it apart. in my buddies Camaro we found it off by. 60 thousands. it was causing a vibration and a lot of people on here are bitching about, vibration, chatter, hard shifting, ect,.i did the one in my super sport and it was rite on. you can buy adjustable dowels to fix the alignment, but yes septate the two much much easier to work on
Pardon my ignorance, but what was off? The trans was not centered in the bellhousing?
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:37 PM   #10
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I'm curious about this as well. How would you dial indicate the bellhousing?

My T5 is jsut a mess these days, makes noises in about all the gears, leaks oil, I'm sort of wavering between leaving it alone for a while and seeing if that LS/CD009 swap gets going or just getting another cheap T5 to toss in it.
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Old 11-09-2017, 04:04 PM   #11
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GM trick I learned in the 80's was using a long stud on each side (remove bell housing bolt on each side to install long studs, then remove the remainder of the bolts) to slide the bell housing back far enough to remove the flexplate for replacement. This of course requires removing the driveshaft and crossmember.
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Old 11-09-2017, 04:49 PM   #12
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Bellhousing to flywheel for parallelism. Slap the bellhousing on, mag base dial, spins the engine over. If your fw to bellhousing is out of parallel, you’re going to eat input shaft bearings and pilot bearings like crazy.
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Old 11-09-2017, 04:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lummert View Post
GM trick I learned in the 80's was using a long stud on each side (remove bell housing bolt on each side to install long studs, then remove the remainder of the bolts) to slide the bell housing back far enough to remove the flexplate for replacement. This of course requires removing the driveshaft and crossmember.
Pics of manual trans flex plate s'il vous plait
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Old 11-09-2017, 05:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
Pics of manual trans flex plate s'il vous plait
Long studs or bolts should still allow the trans to slide back far enough to give enough clearance to remove flywheel. Maybe need to use longer studs for manual flywheel.
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Old 11-09-2017, 05:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lummert View Post
GM trick I learned in the 80's was using a long stud on each side (remove bell housing bolt on each side to install long studs, then remove the remainder of the bolts) to slide the bell housing back far enough to remove the flexplate for replacement. This of course requires removing the driveshaft and crossmember.
Lummert. This... I want more intel on this.

I'm obv dropping this because I'm dumb and put it all together (2 weeks ago) without my stupid starter ring gear on. So the fluid is all zero miles. If I can just save it... and not have to do the refill, great.

Good to know I can do this in 2 parts then. I think that will make getting that biotch into position a lot easier since I won't have to deal with starter bump vs tailshaft/shifter box.
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Old 11-09-2017, 09:41 PM   #16
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just drain the fluid into a clean pan. Yes your checking to make sure your crankshaft centerline and transmission centerline are straight on this can cause a lot of problems, vibration, noise, dragging clutch discs, hard shifting, I wish i could explain it here but i don't punctuate or spell that great. this is something you should do, if you want a quite long lasting able to blitz shift manual trans.. I'm poor at computers i don't know how to even post a link to how to do it. i would also make two long bolts to help guide the trans onto the bellhousing this will help make sure the trans don't hang on the disc for any length of time. do you have to remove the shifter to remove the trans? if so refill it through that, I use a boat lower unit oil pump sometimes when things are tight too get oil in. you can get them at the parts store for a few bucks
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Old 11-09-2017, 09:59 PM   #17
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Just leave the driveshaft front yoke installed in the trans to prevent fluid spillage. Use a floor jack to support the tail of the trans when sliding back on long studs. Whoops: I just realized that you won't have room to use a clutch alignment tool. But you can still use long studs to align the bell housing to the block after installing the flywheel and clutch parts.
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
Pics of manual trans flex plate s'il vous plait
I just realized that this most likely only works with an automatic trans.
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:19 PM   #19
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I just realized that this most likely only works with an automatic trans.
Devastating.
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:43 PM   #20
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So you guys are installing your T5s in two steps as well? Bell+adapter to block, then trans to adapter?

This way was my preferred method for the M41, but wasn't sure if tight tolerances on the DeeWorks adapter made it less feasible with the T5.
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:07 PM   #21
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I had an early T5 adapter from the first company doing it, I couldn't separate the trans from the bell, but I also never really had much issue getting it out. One time I pulled it, rebuilt it and drove it home in 8 hours by my self
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