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Old 11-14-2017, 02:49 PM   #1
Cwazywazy
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Default Tranny line stuck to fitting

Trying to take the diesel 240s radiator out and the lower cooler line is stuck to the fitting. I really don't wanna break it. PB Blaster doesn't help.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:22 PM   #2
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Use a fine bristle wire brush and clean the exposed threads as clean as possible and try PB Blaster again, letting it soak for a day. If that doesn't do it, you are looking at heat.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Use a fine bristle wire brush and clean the exposed threads as clean as possible and try PB Blaster again, letting it soak for a day. If that doesn't do it, you are looking at heat.
I mean the line is stuck to the fitting, so when I try to unbolt it the hard cooler line twists.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:46 PM   #4
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Like Roy said, try a little heat on the fitting.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Like Roy said, try a little heat on the fitting.
And...use a fine bristle wire brush to clean the rust off of the line and fitting where the line enters the line nut. If you give the PB a path to get in, it usually does what it is designed to do. I do the same thing with exhaust manifold nuts. I clean up the threads and then apply PB. I have not broken off a stud since first discovering PB Blaster.
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:04 PM   #6
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If it makes you feel better... a month or two (or three) back my internal trans cooler broke and began pushing trans fluid into my coolant. This was NBD since I was going T5 anyhow... but I found the proper cap size to simply cap those off and still have a functional radiator. You could always cut lines and go with a proper external trans cooler and then cap those nipples should things go south in a hurry.

I... of COURSE can't find the order rn, but I beLIEVE the fitting was 1/2-20 threading and I used brass caps. (edited for correct info)

Last edited by EivlEvo; 11-14-2017 at 04:26 PM..
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:08 PM   #7
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Giving the penetrating oil a way to get to the rust will definitely aid in removal. Sometimes it will take multiple applications of heat to get it to break free. Don't get it too hot or you'll start to melt the solder holding the radiator together.

The radiator cooling line fittings are ½"-20 thread.
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:08 PM   #8
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I don't think it's coming off without breaking the line. Tried wire brush, brake clean, pb blaster, heat.
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:25 PM   #9
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Ian and I rarely see the kind of corrosion you guys experience back east. The two parts may have become one by now. You may just have to cut it off.
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Ian and I rarely see the kind of corrosion you guys experience back east. The two parts may have become one by now. You may just have to cut it off.
Doesn't look rusty. The top one was no problem at all.

But yeah, cut it off and hope I can bend it a little to get more length?
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:42 PM   #11
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If it doesn't look rusty, give the PB time to do it's job. A minimum of 24 hours. Patience pays off when dealing with this kind of problem.
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