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Old 04-05-2015, 06:25 PM   #1
PromiseRing
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Default Strut Bearing Failing?

Mods please move to maintenance and non performance.
1993 244, 140,000 miles.

I've developed this low speed clunky vibration over bumps from the front end of my car. It's noticeable on the left side. Upon jacking it up, all control arm bushings seem in-tact and without play. I tightened the crossmember bolts very tight as well. Ball joints were replaced a year or so ago, but with cheap parts so I'm not sure on the quality. I know I need a passenger side outer tie rod as well.

While in the air if i hit the 12 o'clock position on the tire it makes a vibrating noise similar to the one I hear on bumps. If I compress the spring by hand and hit the tire, the noise almost goes away. Is this a sign of a failing strut bearing? The right side of the car made no noise when I hit the tire.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:01 PM   #2
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Don't wheel bearings rarely fail in the front on these?
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:11 PM   #3
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Check your brake pads to see if the spring retainer is on.Sometime its the brake pads rattling.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:11 PM   #4
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Strut gland nut tight?

If you pop the cap off the strut mount and wedge your finger between the nut and the opening in the strut mount, then bounce your weight on the fender, you might be able to feel movement of the nut indicating either it's loose or the bearing has play. Just a thought, I've done that with camber plates when trying to identify an audible clunk. Sometimes I've found the nut to be slightly loose...mark nut & shaft with a felt tip pen and blip the nut tight with an impact and see if the line moves.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
Strut gland nut tight?

If you pop the cap off the strut mount and wedge your finger between the nut and the opening in the strut mount, then bounce your weight on the fender, you might be able to feel movement of the nut indicating either it's loose or the bearing has play. Just a thought, I've done that with camber plates when trying to identify an audible clunk. Sometimes I've found the nut to be slightly loose...mark nut & shaft with a felt tip pen and blip the nut tight with an impact and see if the line moves.
Before I made this thread I ran the gland nut down with an impact. It did move a little bit but that's normal with 300+ ft/lbs I assume. The noise still persists even after tightening that nut.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:43 PM   #6
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Strictly by listening to your video I would pop the cap off of the spindle, not the strut mount, pull the cotter pin and give the spindle nut a right hand turn.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
Strictly by listening to your video I would pop the cap off of the spindle, not the strut mount, pull the cotter pin and give the spindle nut a right hand turn.
I plead ignorance

Are you saying pull the wheel off, pop the cap off that exposes the nut where the wheel bearing is, and tighten it down?
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:02 PM   #8
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wheel brg either failed or needs adjusting I suspect.

When is the last time the wheel brgs were removed, cleaned and repacked with grease?..............



Never?
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:32 PM   #9
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Sounds like a loose wheel bearing.
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by smokeyfan1000 View Post
wheel brg either failed or needs adjusting I suspect.

When is the last time the wheel brgs were removed, cleaned and repacked with grease?..............



Never?
Not since I've owned the car at least. If I go as far as pulling the hearing would it be smarter to just replace it? I can pack the bearing though.
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Old 04-05-2015, 10:08 PM   #11
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Sounds like the shock is loose inside of the strut tube.
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Old 04-05-2015, 10:23 PM   #12
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It might also be worth noting that there's a clunk while turning at a dead stop in either direction (play in the steering wheel) but i believe the outer tie rod is to blame for that.
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:19 PM   #13
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There may be play in your upper strut area. Just enough to allow play between the shock nut and the upper spring seat. Like your upper strut assembly may be tight, but there is still play. Take the nut off, add a few washers, and then tighten everything back up.
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Before I made this thread I ran the gland nut down with an impact. It did move a little bit but that's normal with 300+ ft/lbs I assume. The noise still persists even after tightening that nut.
That's not the gland nut.

What holds the strut insert in the tube is the gland nut.
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
That's not the gland nut.

What holds the strut insert in the tube is the gland nut.
Wait..how do you know what Nut I'm talking about? I popped the cap off the nut (by the rubber strut mounts..?) and tightened that nut. That ones not the gland nut?
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
That's not the gland nut.

What holds the strut insert in the tube is the gland nut.
This. If the top nut is still loose on top of your strut mount, that's your issue like I said. There's play there, it's going to clunk going over even a small bump. That split second that shock and spring unloads, clunk.
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by centason View Post
This. If the top nut is still loose on top of your strut mount, that's your issue like I said. There's play there, it's going to clunk going over even a small bump. That split second that shock and spring unloads, clunk.
The top one under the cap is the one I ran down with the impact. I thought that was the gland nut.
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:05 AM   #18
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No. That nut keeps the whole upper assembly together, and if there is a little play, when the whole spring and shock unload, it will clunk. Try adding a few washer and see if that takes up the play.
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:16 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by centason View Post
No. That nut keeps the whole upper assembly together, and if there is a little play, when the whole spring and shock unload, it will clunk. Try adding a few washer and see if that takes up the play.
Add wAsher's under the top nut? Will do. But what's a gland nut?
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:37 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Not since I've owned the car at least. If I go as far as pulling the hearing would it be smarter to just replace it? I can pack the bearing though.
If you replace the TWO bearings per frt wheels, you also need to replace the race for each bearing.

Just how much natural mechanical skills do you possess? Because installing the races STRAIGHT in the hubs , with out damaging the races.... may be above your skill level (judging by how you've never done a wheel brg replacement)
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeyfan1000 View Post
If you replace the TWO bearings per frt wheels, you also need to replace the race for each bearing.

Just how much natural mechanical skills do you possess? Because installing the races STRAIGHT in the hubs , with out damaging the races.... may be above your skill level (judging by how you've never done a wheel brg replacement)
I don't want to replace anything that I don't KNOW is bad..so I'll see if I can't tighten the gland nut (once I figure out what it is) and shim up the top nut.

I have the skill to replace the bearing, I believe. I'd just need to read up on it.
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:39 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Wait..how do you know what Nut I'm talking about? I popped the cap off the nut (by the rubber strut mounts..?) and tightened that nut. That ones not the gland nut?
Because the strut gland nut is not tightened with an impact. Special tool, pipe wrench, channel locks, etc. But not impact.
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:47 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
Because the strut gland nut is not tightened with an impact. Special tool, pipe wrench, channel locks, etc. But not impact.
Yeah I finally realized that after I found out what it was.. I will tighten it tomorrow if I get the chance. It needs to be tightened with the vehicles full weight on the ground, correct?

Last edited by PromiseRing; 04-06-2015 at 02:55 AM..
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:11 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
...It needs to be tightened with the vehicles full weight on the ground, correct?
You can get there better but you get higher torque with spring slightly compressed when the strut is not under spring pressure.
Anyway my bet is wheel bearing.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:14 AM   #25
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Don't wheel bearings rarely fail in the front on these?
I've lost two...
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