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Old 06-09-2017, 02:35 PM   #226
Tfrasca
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Originally Posted by JPS View Post
yeah its running! sweet.

I also don't have the idle motor fitted (plugged the holes), but cold start are no problem at all. when i cold start the car it fire's right away, and idles at 600rpm. when the engine is hot the idle is at 800.

is your brake booster in a good condition? i have had 4 140s and 1 of them had a good working booster, all the other where shot.
The difference between my hot and cold starts seems bigger than yours. Mine will idle hot at 900-1000 (assuming my GT tach is anywhere near accurate), but it won't even run without the gas pedal on cold start. I should have the hoses hooked up by tomorrow.

My booster is in good shape, in that it holds a solid vacuum with no leaks. The brakes feel decent, but I wish they had more initial bite.
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:55 AM   #227
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This is what I ended up with. The intake manifold came out especially awesome, thanks to Noah's TIG skills. So happy with how all of this turned out.

Driving impressions after a few hundred miles and the occasional 8 psi are as follows:

4.30s with any amount of power and an open diff means accidental one tire fire at all times.

The 19t with an open filter and Forge diverter valve is TOO LOUD. I'm hoping the diverter valve is leaking or something, because the constant noise, even when in vacuum is extremely annoying.

I need to add resistance to the gas pedal somehow. It's so light with the Yoshi cable spool that it's hard to drive smoothly.

Case in point: I accidentally went an indicated 125 on my GT speedo.















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Old 06-13-2017, 11:11 AM   #228
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Jesus dude, That is such a clean swap. Great work. I can't wait until I can see this thing in person someday.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:22 AM   #229
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Jesus dude, That is such a clean swap. Great work. I can't wait until I can see this thing in person someday.
Thanks man. I'll probably bring it to the next couple Cars and Coffees at Canepa, as I work through more issues. You should cruise down for one of them.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:45 AM   #230
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Wow, I appreciate your attention to detail on the swap. Super clean.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:49 AM   #231
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My gas pedal is the same way but I haven't figured out what I'll do about it yet. I used a 240 pedal in my car. It only really bothered me when I was driving on the highway for like 200 miles. I haven't decided if I should just add some kind of return spring to the pedal or what.
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:10 PM   #232
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That's a beautiful intake. Nice swap!
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:12 PM   #233
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Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
Wow, I appreciate your attention to detail on the swap. Super clean.
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That's a beautiful intake. Nice swap!
Thanks, guys!
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:15 PM   #234
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My gas pedal is the same way but I haven't figured out what I'll do about it yet. I used a 240 pedal in my car. It only really bothered me when I was driving on the highway for like 200 miles. I haven't decided if I should just add some kind of return spring to the pedal or what.
Yeah, I have a 240 pedal and a 960 TB. I tried winding the return spring on the TB tighter, but then it fouls the idle stop and only gives you 1/4 throttle. The only other possibility is to rig a return spring on the pedal. Or pour some dirt into the cable housing.
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:23 PM   #235
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I'd run a spring on the pedal, so the 149/240 doesn't have an adjustable spring on the pedal mount already? Interested to see what you come up with.

Swap looks awesome! Great work!
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:04 PM   #236
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I tried the same thing with the return spring on the TB. How did you get your TPS to point forward like that? Is it reversible and I just don't know? Mine points back toward that curved piece on the plenum and it puts a lot of pressure on the harness/rubber boot thing when it's plugged in.
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:04 PM   #237
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I'd run a spring on the pedal, so the 149/240 doesn't have an adjustable spring on the pedal mount already? Interested to see what you come up with.

Swap looks awesome! Great work!
Yeah, the 240 pedal has a spring on the pivot, but it's very light. Easiest thing I can think of is a helper spring from the top of the pedal lever to somewhere on the steering column.
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:17 PM   #238
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I tried the same thing with the return spring on the TB. How did you get your TPS to point forward like that? Is it reversible and I just don't know? Mine points back toward that curved piece on the plenum and it puts a lot of pressure on the harness/rubber boot thing when it's plugged in.
Thanks to Pat's tutorial here, it was super easy.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=332120
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:30 PM   #239
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huh, the 120 pedal has a spring that sits on a bolt that you crank out to add resistance, any way of getting a block or a bolt or something underneath where the spring rests against the firewall?
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:41 PM   #240
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huh, the 120 pedal has a spring that sits on a bolt that you crank out to add resistance, any way of getting a block or a bolt or something underneath where the spring rests against the firewall?
There's no spring on the firewall, it's wrapped around the pivot, perpendicular to the firewall. Although, I suppose I could try to wrap it tighter, like I tried with the throttle body.
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:16 PM   #241
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I was just thinking that an adjustment bolt/point under what the spring rests against. So theres one side grabbing the pedal, and the other side rests against something, right, so if you can drill and tap that something and toss a bolt in it, the spring now rests against the bolt, loosen or tighten the bolt and it adjust the preload on the spring.
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:18 PM   #242
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I was just thinking that an adjustment bolt/point under what the spring rests against. So theres one side grabbing the pedal, and the other side rests against something, right, so if you can drill and tap that something and toss a bolt in it, the spring now rests against the bolt, loosen or tighten the bolt and it adjust the preload on the spring.
Yeah, the adjustment would be ideal. Just not sure how much room there is to tap the plastic pivot housing. I'll have to check it out later.

Fixing the warm running issue is the first priority.
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:20 PM   #243
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Those forge diverter valves are super loud with a short intake pipe on the small frame turbos, the stock cbv is even louder. Lol
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:25 PM   #244
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Those forge diverter valves are super loud with a short intake pipe on the small frame turbos, the stock cbv is even louder. Lol
Damn it. That's what I was afraid of. I guess I'll be making an airbox...
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:34 PM   #245
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Instead of tapping the plastic, find a bolt/nut short enough and to fit (drill a hole in the plastic to hold the nut/bolt assembled) and let the spring pressure hold the assembly in place?
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:36 PM   #246
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Is the intake manifold tumbled or something? Looks really nice. The entire project does.
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:38 PM   #247
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Is the intake manifold tumbled or something? Looks really nice. The entire project does.
Thank you. I just used a random orbital with 150, 220, 320, then Scotch-Brite. Mostly I just wanted to get rid of the nasty marks from the break that bent the plenum.
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:44 PM   #248
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Ive got a spare 240 diesel airbox you can test fit, might fit pretty good
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:46 PM   #249
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Ive got a spare 240 diesel airbox you can test fit, might fit pretty good
Is it really small? It's very tight in the front corner of the 140 bay.
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:53 PM   #250
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It's reasonably small [sorry if the picture is not]

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