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Old 06-14-2017, 05:35 AM   #251
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Amazing build!!! Love the intake.

Thanks,
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Old 06-14-2017, 06:26 AM   #252
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Beautiful work!
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Old 06-14-2017, 02:52 PM   #253
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Awesome work, congrats on getting it on the road. I really like how tidy and compact that intake is. Nice job.
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:39 PM   #254
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Got to see it up close this past weekend. The car looks fantastic rolling down the road.
Great work! Can't wait to see it cleaned up with a fresh wax! Maybe at the next Canepa?
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:52 PM   #255
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Originally Posted by slammed145 View Post
Got to see it up close this past weekend. The car looks fantastic rolling down the road.
Great work! Can't wait to see it cleaned up with a fresh wax! Maybe at the next Canepa?
Yeah, I'd like to go to the next one. I have a really long list of things to address before then.

-Relocate oil cooler so it doesn't heat soak radiator.

-Replace Yoshi trans mount with stock 164 mount. (too much NVH)

-A couple oil changes and a filter relocation set up

-Plumb Yoshi vented valve cover cap for better PCV. (It's got some pressure and some seals are leaking. Not what I expected on a fresh rebuild.)

-Try to fit the 240 diesel airbox in there

-Install stock rubber bushings in all suspension

-more...
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:11 PM   #256
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Yoshi fab HD rubber mount?

Fresh engines can eat oil till rings set

Great work man i wish i could commit to something like this on any 140

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Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Yeah, I'd like to go to the next one. I have a really long list of things to address before then.

-Relocate oil cooler so it doesn't heat soak radiator.

-Replace Yoshi trans mount with stock 164 mount. (too much NVH)

-A couple oil changes and a filter relocation set up

-Plumb Yoshi vented valve cover cap for better PCV. (It's got some pressure and some seals are leaking. Not what I expected on a fresh rebuild.)

-Try to fit the 240 diesel airbox in there

-Install stock rubber bushings in all suspension

-more...
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:51 PM   #257
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Originally Posted by NO_SPRK View Post
Yoshi fab HD rubber mount?

Fresh engines can eat oil till rings set

Great work man i wish i could commit to something like this on any 140
Yeah, the Yoshi HD Rubber mount. I made custom motor mounts and the motor is sitting maybe 3/8" further forward than the stock one. So it was pulling on the rubber trans mount too much. The Yoshi one seemed a bit taller, plus it's stronger so I thought it might be a quick fix. The NVH is too much for me, though, so now I have to go back to stock rubber and make some spacers to make up for the offset. Whoops.

I just drained the break-in oil after maybe 500 miles (probably should have sooner), and it was basically exactly how much I had put in there. It was black as sin, but I didn't see any metal shavings, besides the fine particles that the magnetic drain plug picked up. I'll cut open the filter tonight to check that, but I think things are staying together for the most part.

And thanks for the compliment. Commitment is a good term for this project. I would probably not attempt it again until I had a garage.
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Old 07-03-2017, 12:10 PM   #258
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I've been putting some miles on this car, and I'd say that overall I love it. It has a myriad of small issues, but the feeling of ~200 hp in a 50 year old Volvo is pretty sweet. I have surprised some people.

I think I finally figured out why it was running a bit hot. Well, first I had to purge air from the cooling system, which is not easy with the way I "designed" the radiator. Next time I'll make SURE the filler neck is the highest point. But anyway, the oil cooler was almost touching the IC which is very close to the radiator. It was heat soaking whenever the oil cooler thermostat would kick on. It never over heated, but it was making me uncomfortable. I spaced it out a couple inches, and temps are a lot more steady.

Unfortunately, all that work I did on the fuel tank was for naught, because it starves a bit around long rights (freeway on ramps). I'm sure it's better than it would have been with no baffle, but still...

The bad PCV set up and too much blow-by initially made the cam seal and rear main seal leak, and although I think the PCV issue is solved, the cam seal still weeps, so I have a Genuine Volvo one ready to go in. I do want to buy a leak down tester to actually see what's going on once the rings are fully seated. Who knows, maybe I screwed up the ring gap.

Anyway, I'm reasonably sure that my engine is going to keep working so now I need to focus on the rest of the car. GAZ adjustable rear shocks with updated valving are showing up today, and I have new rubber bushings for all the front and rear suspension. I also may get some spring spacers because now that I can drive fast, the car is definitely too low. Never thought I'd say that.

Also brakes. I have a 164 set up in the shed, but I want something with more bite. Going to take some measurements and see what will fit under my Crown Vic wheels.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:00 PM   #259
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I also may get some spring spacers because now that I can drive fast, the car is definitely too low.
Please no.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:04 PM   #260
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Please no.
You're telling me.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:44 PM   #261
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Slosh on long sweepers is hard to combat. I had the same issue with my autocross Bug, with both the fuel and the oil in the (shortened!) Subaru oil pan. It's easy to deal with on small curves, but as soon as you hold the car on a sweeper for a few seconds, it starves pretty quick.

The best thing I found to deal with it was a swirl pot welded to the bottom of the tank. I just had a 3" diameter pipe about 6 inches tall welded onto the tank with a cap welded on the bottom, and then welded inlet and outlet fittings to the pipe for the fuel feed and return, that way the returned fuel is filling the swirl pot. It was 55superbeetle's idea and he welded mine up for me. It's still possible to starve it, just much less likely. I would post a pic, but it's on Photobucket so it's being held hostage.
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Old 07-03-2017, 02:07 PM   #262
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Slosh on long sweepers is hard to combat. I had the same issue with my autocross Bug, with both the fuel and the oil in the (shortened!) Subaru oil pan. It's easy to deal with on small curves, but as soon as you hold the car on a sweeper for a few seconds, it starves pretty quick.

The best thing I found to deal with it was a swirl pot welded to the bottom of the tank. I just had a 3" diameter pipe about 6 inches tall welded onto the tank with a cap welded on the bottom, and then welded inlet and outlet fittings to the pipe for the fuel feed and return, that way the returned fuel is filling the swirl pot. It was 55superbeetle's idea and he welded mine up for me. It's still possible to starve it, just much less likely. I would post a pic, but it's on Photobucket so it's being held hostage.
Yeah, I'm wishing I had run the return to the inside of the baffle box, but I read that returning fuel can be frothy and cause cavitation for the pickup. Honestly, I think the slickest solution is one of those hyper absorbent mats that lays in the tank. I had already cut a huge access window in the top of the tank - I should have installed one of those mats and then bolted the access closed instead of welding it. Oh well. At least my minimal oil pan baffling seems to be doing the trick so far.
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:12 PM   #263
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How about fuel cell foam?
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:15 PM   #264
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I would think that even if the return fuel was frothy, the froth would sit at the top while fuel is pulled from the bottom of the tank. The aeromotive thing is designed to dump it all back into the baffled area.
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:17 PM   #265
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How about fuel cell foam?
That also would have been a good idea. The bummer is that my tank is now welded up with no way of getting back inside...
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:19 PM   #266
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I would think that even if the return fuel was frothy, the froth would sit at the top while fuel is pulled from the bottom of the tank. The aeromotive thing is designed to dump it all back into the baffled area.
Yeah, I'm sure it's fine. This is one of those cases of me reading one thing on the internet and deciding that it must be so.
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Old 07-03-2017, 04:03 PM   #267
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That also would have been a good idea. The bummer is that my tank is now welded up with no way of getting back inside...
Fuel pump hole? You can stuff that foam through some small holes. I fit a 8x8x8 piece with a 4" cylinder cut in the center through a 2" hole.
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Old 07-03-2017, 04:08 PM   #268
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Fuel pump hole? You can stuff that foam through some small holes. I fit a 8x8x8 piece with a 4" cylinder cut in the center through a 2" hole.
I don't have an in tank pump, but I guess I could fit some through the sender hole. I'd just be concerned with loose foam interfering with the sender's movement.
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Old 07-03-2017, 04:19 PM   #269
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I went back through your build. So at this point, to stop starvation, a swirl pot/surge tank is the only way I see to help. Small low pressure pump from the tank to the pot, high pressure to the rail, return to the pot, overflow from the pot to the tank. You can T the wiring for the pumps, just up the fuse by 2a or so. Mine works great pulling from the unbaffled 122 tank. I would say 2liters is the smallest I'd go. And facet carb pumps work great.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:04 PM   #270
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I went back through your build. So at this point, to stop starvation, a swirl pot/surge tank is the only way I see to help. Small low pressure pump from the tank to the pot, high pressure to the rail, return to the pot, overflow from the pot to the tank. You can T the wiring for the pumps, just up the fuse by 2a or so. Mine works great pulling from the unbaffled 122 tank. I would say 2liters is the smallest I'd go. And facet carb pumps work great.
This is probably what I'll do. I went through all that trouble just to keep the floor of my trunk useable and free of hoses, so I'd rather not put the swirl pot in there. I'll see about fitting it under the car.
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:33 PM   #271
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This damn car has been a real pain in the ass lately. I had a leaking RMS due to a ****ty Elring seal and probably too much crankcase pressure. Pulled the trans and replaced all the gaskets on that, since they were all leaking. Got all of that back together only to find out that there is still a slight leak from what I think is the oil pan to RMS housing area. And, my overdrive no longer works. The solenoid clicks on, but it won't engage OD.

Anyway, while the trans was out I decided to make damn sure that the PCV was up to par, so I installed a yoshi catch can and even the small vacuum line like a stock later model redblock. The PCV is now substantially better than stock. I'll do a leak down test this weak to see what else may be going on. Here you can see the Yoshi can and hoses cluttering up my engine bay:



I also tried to fit a 240 diesel air box in there to quiet down the turbo/bypass valve. But there was no way it would fit. I looked around and found this K&N "air box", which is really just an open filter with an injection molded plastic cover. I don't like the way it looks, but it quieted things down substantially, and that's a win.



After buttoning up all of the above, and being pretty bummed about the lack of OD and the persistent oil leaks, I woke up to a trunk full of gasoline this morning. Easy fix, as it's just the 48 year old overflow hose that cracked. But still...



This week/weekend, I plan to do a leak down test, check valve clearances, change oil to 10w40 or 15w40, and maybe try to find a place for the remote oil filter set up I have.

Hopefully ClassicSwede can get me the short shocks I ordered soon, because I've been putting off an exhaust appointment until then. My rear springs are short enough to fall out when completely unweighted, and I don't want to have to explain that to a muffler shop and expect them to carefully lower the car while re-aligning the springs.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:39 PM   #272
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Got all of that back together only to find out that there is still a slight leak from what I think is the oil pan to RMS housing area.
BTDT... annoying for sure.

Engine bay is so clean tho, great work.
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Old 07-17-2017, 02:10 PM   #273
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BTDT... annoying for sure.

Engine bay is so clean tho, great work.
Quite annoying. The cool thing is that there's no chance I'm pulling the transmission in my driveway anytime soon. If it leaks, it leaks until I sort out the T5 or Getrag swap.

And thanks. I get bummed every time I have to bolt more stuff into the engine bay, but I guess it still looks pretty clean.
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:08 PM   #274
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I would use limiting straps to stop the springs from falling out, not the shocks.

I like the "air box" solution, but am also partial to the bypass valve sound in my car.
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Old 07-17-2017, 05:10 PM   #275
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I would use limiting straps to stop the springs from falling out, not the shocks.

I like the "air box" solution, but am also partial to the bypass valve sound in my car.
I thought about limiting straps. The factory used the shocks to keep the springs in, though, right? Also, it seems like short shocks are designed with a shorter stroke to match the shorter suspension travel. If I just compress stock length shocks, then they are always riding low in their stroke. Not sure how this would affect damping, but it could?
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