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Old 11-04-2017, 10:25 PM   #1
ICantDrift
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Default Urgh. Overheating 240

I've got a bit of an overheating issue with my B230F. It overheats at 5000rpm+ (or bouncing off redline if it's sideways in the rain), but cools down during normal driving, then heats back up, cools down, and then heats back up again. The coolant reservoir is about halfway full (between the two marks) and I just put a new genuine Volvo thermostat in from FCP like a month ago, I thought that I just got a bad unit but I'm not sure. And other thoughts? Thanks!
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Old 11-05-2017, 01:09 AM   #2
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...how long are you keeping it over 5000rpm?
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:34 AM   #3
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Cooling systems are pretty straightforward, if it's not the thermostat it's the water pump or 30 year old radiator
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Old 11-05-2017, 05:25 AM   #4
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Another thing to consider, are block/s in other areas like heater core

(* I think that's what is going with my 240 wagoon, as the water pmp/thrmstt 92c is 1 year old, radiator is Nissens 3 core, that was checked out. But there is still a possible flow issue)

** 5,000 RPMs eh ?
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:42 AM   #5
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Temp faker board?
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:58 AM   #6
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30 year old radiator
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:35 AM   #7
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...how long are you keeping it over 5000rpm?
Like, pulling to redline and then changing up a gear. Maybe a second or two if it's raining and I'm sideways but I'm not holding it there for minutes at a time
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:53 AM   #8
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Temp faker board?
ya, check the radiator hoses once it gets hot. are they firm?
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:04 PM   #9
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Fan Belt tight? Harmonic balancer worn out or slipping?
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:09 PM   #10
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Fan Belt tight? Harmonic balancer worn out or slipping?
Fan belt is tight, harmonic balancer seems fine
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:10 PM   #11
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ya, check the radiator hoses once it gets hot. are they firm?
Not really but I bled as much air out of the system as I could
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:38 PM   #12
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Temp faker board?
OP did you bypass this or not? Don’t complain about over heating unless you’ve verified that you’re over heating.
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:39 PM   #13
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Fan belt is tight, harmonic balancer seems fine
The harmonic balancer is actually two different pieces of steel...the inner hub and the outer pulley.
They are bonded together with a rubber cushion (bushing).
This controls vibration.
This rubber bushing must transmit all of the torque on the front output pulley of the engine (crankshaft.)......water pump, alternator, air conditioner compressor, power steering pump.

If that rubber bushing fails, the outer pulley will slip and not transmit any driving force for these components.
It might not be obvious to the eye, and sometimes will only slip under higher loads.....like higher engine RPM.

If you already knew this, I'm just trying to help.
If you didn't, mark the pulley with chalk both inside and outside of the two hubs and see if there is any movement between the halves of the balancer.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-05-2017, 05:41 PM   #14
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OP did you bypass this or not? Don’t complain about over heating unless you’ve verified that you’re over heating.
Have you tried an infrared thermometer ?
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:46 PM   #15
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Have you tried an infrared thermometer ?
I use one all the time. OP could use one as well.

If the temp fluctuates that much I would assume temp faker.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:53 PM   #16
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I like the slipping harmonic balancer idea the best.

Timing could be off also. Cam or ignition. Bouncing it off the rev limiter a lot you could have skipped a tooth on the belt possibly.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:05 PM   #17
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I use one all the time. OP could use one as well.

If the temp fluctuates that much I would assume temp faker.

er, I meant to ask this to OP
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:14 AM   #18
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Pretty sure it's the faker board because when it starts to get wonky, I can smack the dash above the cluster and it'll come back to center. I'm going to get my soldering iron and fix that asap
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:48 AM   #19
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Pretty sure it's the faker board because when it starts to get wonky, I can smack the dash above the cluster and it'll come back to center. I'm going to get my soldering iron and fix that asap
Just use some lamp wire and jump pins 1 and 3. Easier than soldering IMO.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:41 AM   #20
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Just use some lamp wire and jump pins 1 and 3. Easier than soldering IMO.
Why lamp wire?
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:30 PM   #21
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Why lamp wire?

Lamp or "tinsel" cord has fine gage copper conductors and a soft flexible insulation.

That makes it flexible and easy to bend so that you can force the ends of the cord over the two "pins" where the compensator board is mounted.

The soft elastic covering on the cord makes a tight, pliable connection on the pins after it is pushed over the pins.

I did it on my 92 Model 240, and haven't had a problem yet.
It is truly a lot easier than trying to solder in a jumper in that tight space.

Plus, most people have some old lamp cord laying around.
Us the smallest and most flexible cord that you can find.
You only need a piece about 2" long.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:38 PM   #22
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I'm putting my money on a weak water pump..pump belt slipping. If you continue to beat on your car like that you are going to have more problems
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:31 PM   #23
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I'm putting my money on a weak water pump..pump belt slipping. If you continue to beat on your car like that you are going to have more problems
Pretty sure that it's just the temp faker and that I don't actually have an overheating issue
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:48 PM   #24
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Why don't you use an infrared thermometer to find out.
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Old 11-06-2017, 03:11 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by coalminer View Post
Lamp or "tinsel" cord has fine gage copper conductors and a soft flexible insulation.

That makes it flexible and easy to bend so that you can force the ends of the cord over the two "pins" where the compensator board is mounted.

The soft elastic covering on the cord makes a tight, pliable connection on the pins after it is pushed over the pins.

I did it on my 92 Model 240, and haven't had a problem yet.
It is truly a lot easier than trying to solder in a jumper in that tight space.

Plus, most people have some old lamp cord laying around.
Us the smallest and most flexible cord that you can find.
You only need a piece about 2" long.

Hope this helps
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Why don't you use an infrared thermometer to find out.
^would normally be my first suggestion. But why not bypass the board and see what your gauge does?
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