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Old 11-07-2017, 01:25 PM   #1
DavidSamuels
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Default Laycock OD Service

Looking for someone who rebuilds them. Reputable, hopefully not too far from L.A. Just one of those things I don't do and I need a reliable source who can get parts and knows how to diagnose. Thanks, DS
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Old 11-07-2017, 01:28 PM   #2
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I'm your man.
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Old 11-07-2017, 03:10 PM   #3
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That escalated quickly
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:20 PM   #4
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They really aren't all that difficult to work on.

I've replaced the O-rings on the internal pistons without much trouble, and that's a known failure item.

But repair requires dropping the transmission, which is always a royal PITA, then unbolting the OD from the transmission.

This last bit can be a problem unless the OD is not engaged at the time it was last energized, i.e. make sure the OD is not "on" before turning the car off prepartory to R&R.
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:27 PM   #5
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I remove them without dropping the trans--or at least not completely. Trusty, sawn-off 7/16 at the ready! O-rings I'll do. It's when it gets deeper that I chicken out.
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:47 PM   #6
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The greenbook says to "drive with the overdrive engaged and then disengaged with the clutch pedal depressed. This is important in order to avoid torsional tensions in the shaft between the planet carrier and one-way clutch". I've found that a quick clutch kick in reverse with the brakes applied releases the death grip on the splines.
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:13 PM   #7
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Fortunately, very fortunately, I have never had one completely locked on. My own was the closest, and a couple of raps with a mallet released it, thankfully. I've heard though!
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. V View Post
This last bit can be a problem unless the OD is not engaged at the time it was last energized, i.e. make sure the OD is not "on" before turning the car off prepartory to R&R.
That doesn't seem correct. That would mean that we would likelly never encounter the OD section locked to the shaft, since who turns off the car with the OD engaged?

My own experience is: good results whenever I remembered to dump the clutch while in reverse prior to removing the OD unit. Whenever I forgot = lots and lots of hammering with the heavy rubber mallet.
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:18 PM   #9
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My apologies if I got the procedure wrong; just be aware it's an issue, and check a repair manual for the correct procedure.
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:49 PM   #10
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if HiPerfAuto cant help you out, there is these guys:

www.Odspares.com

The bought all of the old Laycock stock when they closed

They are in Britain :(
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Old 11-08-2017, 10:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
The greenbook says to "drive with the overdrive engaged and then disengaged with the clutch pedal depressed. This is important in order to avoid torsional tensions in the shaft between the planet carrier and one-way clutch". I've found that a quick clutch kick in reverse with the brakes applied releases the death grip on the splines.
I let them spin down, or use the pressure port and grease gun with the solenoid energized, though if it has a bad enough hydraulic problem, this might not work, and/or kill/clutch kick them in reverse a couple times.

Sometimes the last choice is the only easy choice and all you can really do.

I found the instructions kind of comical and quintessentially british, since half the reason the british POS is coming off in the first place is that it doesn't engage!

Never drop the trans good god, greasy and gross as it is, it's MUCH less time to remove the OD only.

Cockley Ed the norman villain over and out.
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Old 11-09-2017, 04:41 AM   #12
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Yeah, I guess you don't have to drop the tranny; it's just that I've replaced the clutch at the same time, so that procedure was imprinted.
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Old 11-11-2017, 09:29 AM   #13
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Have Hiperfauto do it.
Sure I did my own J type, probably spent more time on research than actually working on the darn think. Had two different manuals and the internet. I'm just dumb enough to enjoy the DIY sort of thing.
When it came to sliding the OD off the M41 mine was tight and since it was shipped up from Kansas the whole drive it to unlock it thing was out. Not having a hand operated hydraulic pump anywhere close. I went to the hardware store and bought a low grade 3/8s bolt, drilled and tapped it for a Zerk. First I tried motor oil in a grease gun whilst energizing the selonoid on a battery.
That didn't get it so I tried grease, heard a "POP" and off it slid. Only trouble with grease is cleaning it all out of the dammed thing but you gotta clean it anyway.
The idea of beating the day lights out of one of these things to remove it scares me. I've seen too many parts get busted when treated to Primitive Pete's ham fisted removal methods.
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