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78 blower motor

A

adamdrives

Active member
Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Location
San Jose
Hey Fellas, just dug out the heater core and blower motor out of my 78 242, and lo and behold the fan motor and resistor are on integrated unit, different from the usual VDO motor + resistor style I'm accustomed to. Not getting any hits on a few basic searches, is there a known procedure for retrofitting? I'm thinking I can wire everything up to a new style fan switch, but the bigger issue is the motor doesn't fit in the heater box. Whats a guy to do?

Also, go for a new style heater control valve from ipd while I'm in there? Boss might have an original style MTC laying around.
 
You still have your original series wound motor that you have removed. Volvo and good aftermarket suppliers like IPD have been supplying the later motor, resistor, and switch for your repair purposes. You have to get out your dremel or a small die grinder and make the inside large enough to fit the newer style motor. IPD or Volvo can supply you with the instruction sheets for how to do the retrofit in your car. Use a small hosed shop vac to clean up all the plastic shavings you are going to make.

Just think you are the first person in there in over 30 years! It really isn't too bad of a procedure. Just take your time and you'll get 'er done.

Edit:That original style motor hasn't been available since the early 1980s.
 
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The plastic late model heater valves are known to begin leaking. Wagonmeister is our very own David Samuels, btw. Might as well support a fellow TB'er.

If the stock heater valve still operates properly, I'd leave it alone, just make sure that the capilary tube that's wound up isn't damaged while you're working on the blower motor swap.
 
Do not buy a VDO replacement motor. They are junk these days. Four Seasons makes a good replacement motor that is manufactured in Canada, vs. China.
 
I'm gonna go cheap for now, and get that quality valve later if it becomes an issue. I'm already going over budget replacing the disintegrated sound deadening and considering replacing the carpet.

Currently the heat adjustment tab doesn't move because something is bent, probably because the valve is seized. Having heat was more of an issue when I ordered the new core in November, now it's less of a priority.

Should I preemptively (spend more cash and) replace the evaporator while I have the heater box out? I have never used the A/C in the car because the blower motor has been dead, but I know eventually I will want to revive it. For all I know it might work with a charge. I'd hate to have to dig this back out if there was an issue.
 
2manyturbos said:
The euro parts house valve is excellent quality and is only $18 more than the junk MTC valve.
Click to expand...

This is the valve I used and I forgot to mention it yesterday. The valve from wagonmeister is excellent but if you are budget limited go with the europartshouse one. They are nice people very into these cars, too. Plus it's a metal valve which will last longer than the disc plastic garbage. I went through three of those crappy disc ones on my cars.

The evaporator can be replaced from the side of the heater box. So when you are ready to replace it you work from the passenger side of the heater box.
 
dl242gt said:
You still have your original series wound motor that you have removed. Volvo and good aftermarket suppliers like IPD have been supplying the later motor, resistor, and switch for your repair purposes. You have to get out your dremel or a small die grinder and make the inside large enough to fit the newer style motor. IPD or Volvo can supply you with the instruction sheets for how to do the retrofit in your car. Use a small hosed shop vac to clean up all the plastic shavings you are going to make.
Click to expand...

I found the info on their site and modified the heater box so the motor fits, but I need a connector to re pin for the new style fan switch which I can't seem to find.
 
There is a wiring harness that comes with the resistor that has the connector in it. Did you get a new resistor with wiring harness? The resistor gives you the different fan speeds and you use the newer style fan switch which matches up to the connector for the resistor and power wire for the fan motor.
 
I got a genuine resistor from FCP, I’ll check tomorrow but I didn’t notice one. Thanks

Edit: it has the connector, thanks!
 
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The only old wire you will have to switch over is the large White/black and you put that into one of the open spots on the new connector for the swtich. Then there is the red power wire for the motor which connects to a round connector that is part of the resistor wiring. You will have to connect the ground wire which sometimes needs to be lengthened to connect to a screw on the dash frame. Hope that helps.

You remove the wires from the connectors with a small flat tool which presses down a latch in the slot on the housing.
 
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