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My first car: '67 Volvo 122s

H

Humzah Ahmad

New member
Joined
Nov 10, 2016
Location
Sacramento, CA
Hi guys

Earlier this year, I turned 16 and also bought my first classic project car.

Since then I've completely tuned up and fixed all leaks, creaks, etc in the engine. Now I'm left with fixing the rust and updating the interior.

That's where I need help from all of you guys as I know for sure everyone here has more experience than me.

I need help with the following immediately:

-Locating front seats, rear seats, and door panels for 425-552 color code

-Finding information on the most economic way of fixing all rust which means all the floor panels and various areas on the exterior body.
 
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location? Ability to drive to location? Big parts include big shipping, so be prepared. check out cvi or vp auto, lots of others..
cool cars!
 
Beforedenied said:
Wow cool stuff man! Welcome!
For the rust, just use some duct tape, then paint over it. That should work for awhile.
Click to expand...

Great advice! How many layers of duct tape would you recommend for repairing structural sections? Need to have a conversation with the body shop I use. They've been ripping me off by using metal panels welded in.
 
Humzah:

DON'T talk with the body shop about painting over duct tape unless you wish to be known as "the moron who wanted to do rust repair over duct tape."

You CANNOT use duct tape for rust repair.

Period.

Rust repair is time consuming work. To do it correctly you have to cut out the rusted metal so there is no corrosion left. Once everything is cut out, and clean, you have to weld in new metal in the form of sheet steel or formed patch panels. This is exacting work...and expensive.

If you don't have the time or the funds for it, you can just sort of jury-rig the repairs, and pop-rivet panels into place. Be aware, though, that this is basically giving up on a proper restoration.

Restoring rusted vintage cars is expensive, unless you can do a great deal of the work yourself.

I would post pictures of the car, and let everybody take a look and give advice.

Turbobricks is a wonderful resource with people who have forgotten more things than most people know. I'm quite certain that you will quickly get advice on restoring the car, or just driving the car as is, and just making it safe. Before you spend any more money, I would get advice on if the car is worth it...

Often, the worst, and most expensive car to restore is the $200 car...

When you restore and old car, it is usually more economical to buy as nice a car as you, rather than an inexpensive car. I can tell you this from experience...


Dave Riedle
 
driedle said:
Humzah:

DON'T talk with the body shop about painting over duct tape unless you wish to be known as "the moron who wanted to do rust repair over duct tape."

You CANNOT use duct tape for rust repair.

Period.

Rust repair is time consuming work. To do it correctly you have to cut out the rusted metal so there is no corrosion left. Once everything is cut out, and clean, you have to weld in new metal in the form of sheet steel or formed patch panels. This is exacting work...and expensive.

If you don't have the time or the funds for it, you can just sort of jury-rig the repairs, and pop-rivet panels into place. Be aware, though, that this is basically giving up on a proper restoration.

Restoring rusted vintage cars is expensive, unless you can do a great deal of the work yourself.

I would post pictures of the car, and let everybody take a look and give advice.

Turbobricks is a wonderful resource with people who have forgotten more things than most people know. I'm quite certain that you will quickly get advice on restoring the car, or just driving the car as is, and just making it safe. Before you spend any more money, I would get advice on if the car is worth it...

Often, the worst, and most expensive car to restore is the $200 car...

When you restore and old car, it is usually more economical to buy as nice a car as you, rather than an inexpensive car. I can tell you this from experience...


Dave Riedle
Click to expand...

Yeah I figured the duct tape solution wouldn't work. Money on the other hand for rust repair I have but I'm not trying to spend it all just to fix some rust.

How do suggest I find out about the value? Various classic car sites have said up to 20k depending on condition.
 
Post a pic. The fact that you mentioned rust has already dropped the price. Now it also needs and interior, another price drop. After you invest $15-20k then maybe it might be worth $10k. Pics tell the story.
 
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This is what I have right now
 
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Resize your pics by inserting a lower case L (l) before the .jpg in the address. You can go back and edit them, no need to re-post.
 
@ Redwood Chair...My '62, 65K real miles, original unrestored paint and interior, mechanically now as new.
Worth more than $20K, not in a Volvo museum, yet.

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OP: I have a very nice set of black '68 seats complete, front and back, but will not ship...
 
And then there's nick in Portland with a nearly $40k build tally on his beautiful 122 code name blackie. For rust repair. Remove all the interior, and blast, grind, and sand every thing on both sides and weld it. A cheap harbor freight welder with some mods works great with a brass block

Edit- that is not that bad looking. Maybe just a good clean and por15 job.
 
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If as you say you have $1k to spend on seats then that leaves $300 after you buy new tops and bottoms. I think any TBer nearby would install them for that price.
 
Bought my "blackie" 25 years ago with 47K miles for $4200, back when you could get a nice 100K mile DD Amazon for ~$1800.
I have less than twice that initial purchase price in her today, and she looks better than ever...

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