• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

1041 or 1031 to truetrac

MadDog_945

Våga Vägra 8V
Joined
Apr 25, 2006
Location
Lower Saxony
Hi,

i got a 1041 which needs a rebuild before doing another mile with it..

Is it more intelligent to swap in a 1031 when going TrueTrac to make some money out of the 1041?

I am really baffled with alle these 1041 rebuildthreads where it is mostly a 1031 in the end :D

Whats the difference between the bearings of those two is there an ultimatively 1041 thread? i havent found one..

For economy reasons it would be better for my moneybag to just rebuild the 1041 ;)
 
yeah.. i know all the truetrac threads.. what i need is a detailed howto for a complete 1041 rebuild..

Somewhere I have a link to a 960 teardown & reassy. of the 1041. I will see if I can find it tonight and list the link. No pics, just OEM illustrations.

I put the PowerLOK LSD in my 940 1041, but didn't touch the pinion (used a 4.10 from a lower mile NA 9 series). WELL, it turned out to be an easy find:

http://www.volvotips.com/service-ma...-S90-V90-rear-axle-service-repair-manual.html
 
the 1041 (locker, that's really the big difference) chunk tends to wear out the little gears on anything really fun. The trutrac shouldn't wear out like that, AND it's not a locker so it's probably a bit better to drive.

Taking a locker apart is fairly easy, there's not much to them, note the positioning of the counterweight and governor, and the count of frictions and steels on each side. Don't set your clearances too tight.

The side bearings on the carrier (carrier bearings) are the same 1031/1041.
 
I'm closing in on 100k on my TT, damn thing is completely silent, fully effective though. I'm with Kenny, definitely prefer the TT over the G80, though the G80 did work reasonably well half the time.
 
1031 740 axles are wee bit longer and not as thick as 1041 axles. SAme size where they go into the diff, but then get thicker from there to the other end then 1031's. But they always break for me right at the spot where they go into the diff.
 
It's a welded diff breaks the axles just driving around and drag racing with slicks can break them but welded breaks them easier. I've broken them with G80 and slicks and drag strip and then drove home with one broke one and one wheel drive.

I broke em with 235hp/275tq and 12.61 ET.
 
man, i dissassembled the whole thing and now im hasseling with the reassembling..

i will put every shim back to where it belongs but i believe i need to shim it out again and im in a hurry cause my other car did not pass mot.. uh..

btw.. getting the big pinion off is a pita! it exploded on us and my buddy got hit by the race wall broken off on the thumb.. ^^
 
some upgrades.. i reassembled everything and also biased to the preload of the bearings of 2,5-3,5Nm when turning by hand.

It moves so weird its like glued.. maybe from the new bearings? Dont know.. it is not that possible to check for the desired play in the teeth.. yeah.. i will have a looksy at it this evening.. ^^

Somebody got that problem too?
 
Axle is in again, cause i need to got my Daily Bitch MOTed.. yeah.. still not satisfied how this rebuild came out... The ponion turns with some resistance at some points.. due to it is not always the same spot on the pinion i assume it is on the ring gears bill.. dont know.. i will drive this only 2 kms to my garage and back, when i have time again.. Also my toothflank play is not correct, after i torqued the diff to specs... i tried to stretch the housing a bit, but nothing happened :(

Need to redo the whole thing i believe.. man.. with shimming and stuff..
 
Back
Top