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Old 02-04-2016, 07:45 PM   #551
AndrewNance
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keeping the stock hood/core support seal?
Yep. I just cut the portion off that bolts to the hood latch. I left enough sheet metal at the top to bolt it in.
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:39 AM   #552
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Nice, I'm looking at something similar, but due to space confines I had to remove all the existing core support except for the upper channels that bolt to the removable hood seal portion. Since I have a rather large fan that had to go out front, I ended up using a stilt to support the hood latch, but I notice that at any speed the hood bounces a little bit, so when I get to the new radiator and ic install I need to rethink my mount situation. I was had been thinking to ditch the upper hood seal and just make a plate that will attach to the grill/hood latch going from headlight to headlight and run that back to my new radiator upper support. But any who, I've got some time off scheduled so we'll see what I can come up with.
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:53 AM   #553
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Fuel system is basically done. Just need to do some research on how to vent the fuel tank.



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Old 02-10-2016, 07:48 AM   #554
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WOW!
Love the Amazon, and great build thread. subbed!
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Old 02-25-2016, 03:29 PM   #555
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looking so so good man
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Old 02-25-2016, 06:31 PM   #556
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The other day I whipped up a quick intercooler mount and then promptly ran out of gas. Exchanged my tank and kept on it today. Just need to work on some piping next. The plan for that is to get a 2.5" tubing kit and use the left overs to mate the 3" downpipe to my old 2.5" exhaust that we made a few years ago when it had the B20.

Also confirmed that I'll have to cut a little more metal out at the very back of the trans tunnel where it tapers down so that the slip yoke will fit in there. Already talked to the driveshaft shop and I'm gonna drop my yoke and flange off there tomorrow so they can make me a 2.5" one piece shaft.

Sent Stephen those old cheap eBay coilover sleeves from way back so he can NOT DO IT RIGHT and weld some tops on for rear spring adjusters. That'll require me to cut out the factory spring "cup" on the frame rail. Then I should have room for 9" wheels back there.





Someone suggested that I shouldn't hard-mount my radiator so I picked up some nylon washers to hopefully put that to rest.







Picked up another set of wheels also. These are three-piece Enkei Algernon Intelesse in 17x8/9". Probably from the early '90s. The rears should be bolt-on once I cut the spring cups out. Fronts will get a ~30mm slip spacer and long ARP studs. I thought the gold would suck but I kinda like it. Gotta order tires and then we'll see how much it grows on me once the car is driving.

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Old 02-25-2016, 07:05 PM   #557
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Very nice! Make sure after you get our piping run to seal all the space around that radiator/IC...
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Old 02-26-2016, 02:23 AM   #558
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I can't wait to mess it all up!
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:02 PM   #559
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Looking great man, the wheels are awesome.
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Old 02-26-2016, 08:16 PM   #560
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Your car is sickkkk, man.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:39 PM   #561
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I did it. Nowe time to crush it
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:39 PM   #562
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I did it. Nowe time to crush it
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:28 AM   #563
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Got my sprangz last week.




The red and black ones are what I was planning to use before I got a full set of the blue ones. The black ones are TMEs that Ipd used to sell and the reds are some unknown progressives that I got for a decent price. The blue ones are stiff as ****. They cannot be compressed by conventional methods, like, my hands. This is about to be awesome.
Where did you get the blue springs?
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:30 PM   #564
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They're from those cheap Ebay coilover kits for Hondas. I'm not using them anymore though. I would advise against it but I'll sell you all four of them for $40 if you really want them.
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:50 PM   #565
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Working backwards...





The B21 intake fit alright but it left the 3" TB a little too close to the steering shaft. The coupler was about 1mm from contacting it.

Driveshaft test fit revealed that I'll have to cut the tunnel out to give it room and I'll be raising the floor under the rear seat a little to give the rear end a place to go.
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:36 PM   #566
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Okay, intake looks amazing! Can't wait to see it finished.

Side note, the comment about the driveshaft makes me nervous.

Thanks,
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:28 PM   #567
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It's only 2.5" but I had a one-piece made so it'll need some room to move. The slip yoke and the flanges are larger and barely won't fit through the front loop. I'll just cut it and weld a new tunnel in. The rear end would be fine if I wasn't trying to get the car pretty low again. I've been back and forth about doing all the work but I'm committing to it this time.
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:31 PM   #568
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Tunnel has been raised 3-4". I'm sick of being inside the car now but it's finally done.



Got my intake back from Stephen.

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Old 05-07-2016, 05:46 PM   #569
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Looks promising.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:40 AM   #570
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So my guess is that I will have to modify my tunnel in the same manner. I had to cut mine more just to get the slip yoke in and that didn't offer a lot of room. What diameter driveshaft are you using? 2 piece?

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Old 05-08-2016, 08:51 AM   #571
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It's one-piece 2.5". Your transmission seems to sit a little different than mine too. Probably just because of my engine mounts. Mine sits a hair to the passenger side of the car which left the slip yoke like 1mm from touching. So I hammered that back a little even though that part of the driveshaft won't see much movement.

Make sure you pull that yoke out about 1" before measuring for a driveshaft and figuring how much room you need in the new tunnel section. I probably didn't need to raise the whole thing but the back never would've cleared and it was very close to the frame rail in the center of the car too. I'm glad I did it but I literally have like 20 hours in it and it wasn't fun.
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Old 05-08-2016, 09:26 AM   #572
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It's one-piece 2.5". Your transmission seems to sit a little different than mine too. Probably just because of my engine mounts. Mine sits a hair to the passenger side of the car which left the slip yoke like 1mm from touching. So I hammered that back a little even though that part of the driveshaft won't see much movement.

Make sure you pull that yoke out about 1" before measuring for a driveshaft and figuring how much room you need in the new tunnel section. I probably didn't need to raise the whole thing but the back never would've cleared and it was very close to the frame rail in the center of the car too. I'm glad I did it but I literally have like 20 hours in it and it wasn't fun.
Morning Sunshine! Haha.

I would say mine sits higher due the cross member, but it's center (can adjust if needed). Thank you for the help on that.

I pulled it out 3/4" when I measured (pic was taken before I did that). I planned on going stock diameter. The local guy that will be making my driveshaft said that he could make it work for 250 to 300whp application... There is a coworker close by that will handle the welding for the tunnel (will wait till I have the driveshaft)... Am I missing anything else?

As always, your work looks great!

Thanks,
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Old 05-08-2016, 09:37 AM   #573
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I've thought about shimming my trans up a little. It sits down at about 4* if I remember right. I won't mess with it unless there's a problem. It's pretty close to the tunnel as is and I don't want to rework that thing.

I think you can do stock diameter if you do a two piece but that small tubing will flex on a one piece shaft at the length these have to be. The length is basically the same as a Mustang. Maybe .5" difference. I'm pretty sure when Mike put this together in his car he just bolted in a stock Mustang driveshaft. Looking back, I probably should've taken them a factory one and had the front and rear reworked to fit the correct flanges. Even with the car as low as it used to be it just barely rubbed when taking off in first.

This one was around $260 and I supplied the slip-yoke. Denny's Driveshafts makes a 2.5" one piece for hot rods that I thought about buying, but there's a good 4WD shop near my work and they've been good to me in the past. He offered to make a 2" shaft but after checking the book, it was too close to the max length to risk it. Plus no matter what size tubing you get, the flanges will be the same diameter and that's where most of the problem is - the front yoke and the rear flange.
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:29 PM   #574
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It's not very often I get a three day weekend. Or even a two day weekend. So I feel like I got a lot done but really it's just the ****tier parts of this project that I wasn't excited about. I finished the rear floor completely and got the back part of the rear seat back in with very little modification. The lower part no longer fits so I'll have to figure out what to do for a new one. I did have to relocate the seat belt anchor points but I only moved them about 1" from where they were. Shouldn't be a big deal and hopefully I'll never have to find out.



I had two rear tires installed and put the wheels on the back. Loving how that ended up. I cut a couple coils off the rear springs to get the height where I wanted it.






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Old 05-08-2016, 10:45 PM   #575
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