1971 142 Turbo v2.0 - Page 4

joel142 · 01-10-2021, 02:09 AM

Next up, a bit of wiring. I had a couple of fixes to apply:

get rid of the early 2000s split loom
make things actually reach. Many things had been moved around in the engine compartment since the last loom was adapted.
get rid of the very very hardened Volvo over jacket
generally neaten things and organize the wiring
move the powerstage right next to the coil. In v1.0 this was across the engine compartment and I think responsible for spark drop out at idle. This appears to be true as that problem went away with moving the module.

First step: take it all apart.

The key to this is a set of terminal removal tools of which you need precisely one:

Note the slight angle on the tip. This pushes the locking tab out of the way and the insert slides right out. The tab is on the non-crimp side. Not great focus but the tool is slid into the housing on the side of the connector away from the crimp barbs, the tab is depressed and the insert is removed. There are opening for tabs on both sides but the insert is single sided. On reinsertion there are locking ramps in either orientation.

With careful measuring all the wires are sized to just the right length. PET braid is slid over (coverage starting at the deepest point!) with heat shrink as appropriate at junctions and terminations. Not all the boots survived to process but those were usually pretty shredded already.

The three main bundles in the engine compartment are:

AMM, fan, O2 sensor (right side)
Inejectors (resistor pack moved out of the engine bay)
Engine sensors (coolant temp, TPS, knock, oil temp, etc...)
Powerstage

These go through a grommet in the firewall and end up in the passenger footwell.

That part does get split loom because it's so much easier when you don't have a depinned end. It's also under the carpet. These harnesses also carry in power from a sub-fuse panel and relays under the dash.

joel142 · 01-10-2021, 02:25 AM

And as it stands today:

Left the garage under it's own power and idled in the driveway. Fan cycled on and off again so that all seems to work. Nothing leaks. No belts squeal.

Tires are aired up, lug nuts are torqued and running out of excuses to let this thing go. For tires set one (on there) are ~10yrs old and hard as old eraser shavings. Potential set 2 are the tires from the T5-R. Those are pure summer treadwear 200 Potenza RE-71R. Given road temps in the low 40s either set will probably put me into a utility pole before too long. Best to take it easy.

122in805 · 01-11-2021, 11:09 AM

Nice work there. The photos must not account for the foul muttering to oneself and patience required to mate everything up properly!

PaddyGarcia · 01-12-2021, 10:26 AM

Nice work, good tip on the terminal tools.

My tip in return - summer tires in winter are a terrible idea and can make you really sad really quickly. I wish I could find the photo of my bent 911, but you get the picture...

joel142 · 01-12-2021, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaddyGarcia

My tip in return - summer tires in winter are a terrible idea and can make you really sad really quickly. I wish I could find the photo of my bent 911, but you get the picture...

That was one of the great tragedies of COVID - not feeling the need to break out the summer tires. The T5-R just sat on the curb all summer wearing the winter steelies. I think I drove it twice? The Potenzas go on when I can be confident the road surfaces will be in the 50s as they are sketchy in the cold. They're marked as treadwear 200 but a friend of mine who uses up a lot of DOT race tires claims they're closer to 150. They certainly throw a bunch of gravel up into the wheel wells when given the opportunity. They're, surprisingly, not too bad in the rain.

joel142 · 01-12-2021, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 122in805

Nice work there. The photos must not account for the foul muttering to oneself and patience required to mate everything up properly!

The wiring was surprisingly soothing after all the tubing butt welded with MIG... *shudder*

joel142 · 01-16-2021, 02:05 AM

Dug out the hood and after reading a bit on restoring antique paint decided it probably couldn't look any worse. This actually looks better than real life. It was impossible to discern the reflection of a bare bulb above the hood in it's original state. Did a couple of test areas with Menzerna 2500. Probably the biggest improvement for the least effort. Did the whole hood with that.

After flood #1 with Meguiar's #7 applied as per Mike Phillips at Autogeek

After a second flood application of #7 followed by a buff with Menzerna 3500 (my go-to clear coat over carbon bike polish) and a liberal coat of liquid wax.

I think there's something there. When I last had the interior apart I found the paint under the parcel shelf is nicely applied without much orange peel on smooth metal and is a very bright gold. The exposed body seems to have mellowed into a darker shade. I'll be quite curious to see it outside tomorrow. If all goes according to plan I may even bolt it back onto the car.

So the good news is the (likely EPA banned) single stage metallic paint can come back with a nice mellow look versus an extreme gloss. The protocol is roughly:

surface cut with microfiber loaded with 2500
soak with #7 24hrs (probably twice on roof and trunk, maybe once elsewhere)
polish with 3500
wax

I'm really hesitant to hit it with any power tools as this paint is 50yrs old now and this would be my first effort. I guess the only bad news is I have the rest of the car ahead of me.

If anyone who knows more about detailing and sees some labor savings I can eek out I'd love the advice. Otherwise, I think my evenings through February are all planned out.

122in805 · 01-17-2021, 02:19 PM

HMU some afternoon this week. I cut and polished cars for almost two decades.. still do on occasion. Happy to talk shop and help you achieve optimal results.

joel142 · 01-19-2021, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 122in805

HMU some afternoon this week. I cut and polished cars for almost two decades.. still do on occasion. Happy to talk shop and help you achieve optimal results.

Thanks, I'm getting to the body right now. I have some new and improved sponges showing up and some 2400 versus 2500. From the description the real difference is in viscosity so it'll be easier to hand apply.

I'm not exactly sure how I missed this but I thought I was dealing with heavily oxidized paint that had bleached/faded; but, it's actually a respray. As it's getting brighter and (actually) reflective it's coming up distinctly more silver than the more yellow gold in the door jams and inner fenders. When I bought the car the paint was pretty messed up and oxidized to matte-satin. I never spent any time on it because I assumed I'd get it repainted sometime after the engine swap. Now as time dragged on I'm more interested in restoring the paint then completely redoing it and lo and behold it's a different color. Now that I know where to look and can imagine the masking process the lines or old and new color are suddenly visible.

122in805 · 01-19-2021, 02:11 PM

Cheers to your assessment... believe it or not, every vehicle's paint tells the story.

2400 vs 2500, even with viscosity differences will be negligible if you're working by hand. An entry level random orbit polisher will save you dozens of hours and produce significantly better results, safely. Save your rotator cuff and time!

joel142 · 01-19-2021, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 122in805

Cheers to your assessment... believe it or not, every vehicle's paint tells the story.

2400 vs 2500, even with viscosity differences will be negligible if you're working by hand. An entry level random orbit polisher will save you dozens of hours and produce significantly better results, safely. Save your rotator cuff and time!

I believe it - up until a week ago it was: car ignored in a garage for a decade.

Your advice tipped the scales and I have a buffer coming in in the mail. Now that it's not the 50yo original paint I'm feeling a little more free to go at it.

John242Ti · 01-20-2021, 08:19 PM

Yeah, looks like someone painted the car Coronado Gold Metallic (code 135)...

joel142 · 01-22-2021, 10:31 PM

Installed the hood, sponged washed, and clay-bared the whole car. One interesting note is the door mirrors are in dramatically different positions. The right side is much closer to the window.

After the clay-bar got at it with the random orbit polisher and foam disk to great effect. Now I understand the 300 polish; starting with the 2400 was slow but safe. It takes a few rounds to get it shiny and smooth but then the 3500 looks really good after. The garage ceiling is almost completely tiled in fluorescent light fixtures I scored off a neighboring business when they were re-doing their suspended ceiling. To say it's unforgiving is probably generous - is great for seeing defects in anything.

joel142 · 01-24-2021, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John242Ti

Yeah, looks like someone painted the car Coronado Gold Metallic (code 135)...

I'm betting it's more along the lines of early 80s single stage Maaco "gold." Thankfully there's no clear coat. Some areas of paint are quite odd with, seemingly, islets of gold paint. Almost like the flake wasn't completely distributed. I may try to get a better shot just for posterity.

Now that I have less fear the polisher will add a new gutter channel I got into the roof (well, half of it). This is with a yellow pad and the 2400 grit Menznera.

First run took most of the white oxidation off and gave it a little shine, second and third got it shiny but with some unevenness, fourth made it nice and consistent. I was thinking about investing in some more aggressive compound but the trunk and the side don't have nearly the same paint problems. I think those will clean up in 1-2 hits.

joel142 · 01-28-2021, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 122in805

Cheers to your assessment... believe it or not, every vehicle's paint tells the story.

Indeed it does - turns out the back 1/3 has clear coat! Our timeline so far:

1971 - original gold paint. This can be seen in the inner sills and engine compartment. As 30+ yrs of oxidation and paint defects come off the exterior of the car this becomes more obvious.
1980's? - single stage gold over the top. This is very hard and, seemingly, has some odd dark spots/swirls where the gold flake just wasn't that well mixed. I'm thinking 80s because the car had to warrant a paint job while still valuable enough to merit it.
1990's? - well matching gold with clear coat from the C-pillar back. This corresponds to some witness marks in the trunk on the left rear fender. There's also a bit of bondo that got ejected when it was hit in the left rear again just before I bought it.

After working on the single stage getting the clear coated areas shiny seems so easy.

joel142 · 02-03-2021, 03:54 PM

calling it on the hood as I think I've reached the point of diminishing returns at my current skill level. Various buffing steps but no wax yet. Have good hopes for shine after waxing

Just one more big panel on the 142 then return to all the little bits I couldn't get to with the DA. Comparing this to even the 26yo 850, the 850 is so much better setup for paint maintenance. Then comparing the 850 to the 15yo R500 you could probably do that one in a morning.

01-10-2021, 02:09 AM	#76
joel142 Board Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Seattle, WA	Next up, a bit of wiring. I had a couple of fixes to apply: get rid of the early 2000s split loom make things actually reach. Many things had been moved around in the engine compartment since the last loom was adapted. get rid of the very very hardened Volvo over jacket generally neaten things and organize the wiring move the powerstage right next to the coil. In v1.0 this was across the engine compartment and I think responsible for spark drop out at idle. This appears to be true as that problem went away with moving the module. First step: take it all apart. The key to this is a set of terminal removal tools of which you need precisely one: Note the slight angle on the tip. This pushes the locking tab out of the way and the insert slides right out. The tab is on the non-crimp side. Not great focus but the tool is slid into the housing on the side of the connector away from the crimp barbs, the tab is depressed and the insert is removed. There are opening for tabs on both sides but the insert is single sided. On reinsertion there are locking ramps in either orientation. With careful measuring all the wires are sized to just the right length. PET braid is slid over (coverage starting at the deepest point!) with heat shrink as appropriate at junctions and terminations. Not all the boots survived to process but those were usually pretty shredded already. The three main bundles in the engine compartment are: AMM, fan, O2 sensor (right side) Inejectors (resistor pack moved out of the engine bay) Engine sensors (coolant temp, TPS, knock, oil temp, etc...) Powerstage These go through a grommet in the firewall and end up in the passenger footwell. That part does get split loom because it's so much easier when you don't have a depinned end. It's also under the carpet. These harnesses also carry in power from a sub-fuse panel and relays under the dash. __________________ '71 142E, M41, Corbeau GT seats, iPd bars and springs, Nardi wheel, GT gauges, overmatched KYB Gas-A-Justs, Canisto wheels, 7" and Series 175 Cibies '95 T5-R, yellow, M56H swap

01-11-2021, 11:09 AM	#78
122in805 Board Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Santa Barbara	Nice work there. The photos must not account for the foul muttering to oneself and patience required to mate everything up properly! __________________ Andrew : 1965 122 Wagon.

01-16-2021, 02:05 AM	#82
joel142 Board Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Seattle, WA	Dug out the hood and after reading a bit on restoring antique paint decided it probably couldn't look any worse. This actually looks better than real life. It was impossible to discern the reflection of a bare bulb above the hood in it's original state. Did a couple of test areas with Menzerna 2500. Probably the biggest improvement for the least effort. Did the whole hood with that. After flood #1 with Meguiar's #7 applied as per Mike Phillips at Autogeek After a second flood application of #7 followed by a buff with Menzerna 3500 (my go-to clear coat over carbon bike polish) and a liberal coat of liquid wax. I think there's something there. When I last had the interior apart I found the paint under the parcel shelf is nicely applied without much orange peel on smooth metal and is a very bright gold. The exposed body seems to have mellowed into a darker shade. I'll be quite curious to see it outside tomorrow. If all goes according to plan I may even bolt it back onto the car. So the good news is the (likely EPA banned) single stage metallic paint can come back with a nice mellow look versus an extreme gloss. The protocol is roughly: surface cut with microfiber loaded with 2500 soak with #7 24hrs (probably twice on roof and trunk, maybe once elsewhere) polish with 3500 wax I'm really hesitant to hit it with any power tools as this paint is 50yrs old now and this would be my first effort. I guess the only bad news is I have the rest of the car ahead of me. If anyone who knows more about detailing and sees some labor savings I can eek out I'd love the advice. Otherwise, I think my evenings through February are all planned out. Last edited by joel142; 01-24-2021 at 02:20 AM.. Reason: typo

01-20-2021, 08:19 PM	#87
John242Ti LH-Jet & Carb Free Zone Join Date: May 2003 Location: Duvall, WA	Yeah, looks like someone painted the car Coronado Gold Metallic (code 135)... __________________ 1982 242Ti - black, M46. 1985 245Ti - blue, M46. @john242ti on IG

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01-10-2021, 02:25 AM	#77
joel142 Board Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Seattle, WA	And as it stands today: Left the garage under it's own power and idled in the driveway. Fan cycled on and off again so that all seems to work. Nothing leaks. No belts squeal. Tires are aired up, lug nuts are torqued and running out of excuses to let this thing go. For tires set one (on there) are ~10yrs old and hard as old eraser shavings. Potential set 2 are the tires from the T5-R. Those are pure summer treadwear 200 Potenza RE-71R. Given road temps in the low 40s either set will probably put me into a utility pole before too long. Best to take it easy.

01-12-2021, 10:26 AM	#79
PaddyGarcia Board Member Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: NW Virginia	Nice work, good tip on the terminal tools. My tip in return - summer tires in winter are a terrible idea and can make you really sad really quickly. I wish I could find the photo of my bent 911, but you get the picture...

01-17-2021, 02:19 PM	#83
122in805 Board Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Santa Barbara	HMU some afternoon this week. I cut and polished cars for almost two decades.. still do on occasion. Happy to talk shop and help you achieve optimal results.

01-19-2021, 02:11 PM	#85
122in805 Board Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Santa Barbara	Cheers to your assessment... believe it or not, every vehicle's paint tells the story. 2400 vs 2500, even with viscosity differences will be negligible if you're working by hand. An entry level random orbit polisher will save you dozens of hours and produce significantly better results, safely. Save your rotator cuff and time!

01-22-2021, 10:31 PM	#88
joel142 Board Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Seattle, WA	Installed the hood, sponged washed, and clay-bared the whole car. One interesting note is the door mirrors are in dramatically different positions. The right side is much closer to the window. After the clay-bar got at it with the random orbit polisher and foam disk to great effect. Now I understand the 300 polish; starting with the 2400 was slow but safe. It takes a few rounds to get it shiny and smooth but then the 3500 looks really good after. The garage ceiling is almost completely tiled in fluorescent light fixtures I scored off a neighboring business when they were re-doing their suspended ceiling. To say it's unforgiving is probably generous - is great for seeing defects in anything.

02-03-2021, 03:54 PM	#91
joel142 Board Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Seattle, WA	calling it on the hood as I think I've reached the point of diminishing returns at my current skill level. Various buffing steps but no wax yet. Have good hopes for shine after waxing Just one more big panel on the 142 then return to all the little bits I couldn't get to with the DA. Comparing this to even the 26yo 850, the 850 is so much better setup for paint maintenance. Then comparing the 850 to the 15yo R500 you could probably do that one in a morning.